New Guy here. I am restoring a 79 Pace Car. It was a roller with no engine/trans or interior. I have purchased a 5.0 from a 91 GT. After researching i have decided to convert to a carb from the EFI. Are the heads on the EFI engine compatible with a carburetor? All the other stuff I understand, but I was asked this and now not sure. I am installing a T-5 from a 2003 Mustang. Have questions regarding the speed sensor. Wanted to use a VDO gauge but the sending unit does not match the transmission sending unit. Thanks, Larry
Progress Thread Oregon Pace Car Story to Coolness
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Everything is compatible on the engine. EFI is a lot better than carb for a daily driver, but it is more work to get in installed and working. The EFI engine lacks a mechanical fuel pump, so you will need a timing cover that has the fuel pump mount or a suitable electric pump.
I put a crate E-7 5.0 long block in place of the 302 in a 79. The engine balance is different, so you will need the 87 up balancer and the flywheel/flexplate. I do not remember the crank pulley bolt pattern being a problem, but somewhere along the line it changed. I think a newer clutch assy fit in the SROD bellhousing.
your T-5 will not use the SROD bell housing.
Jrichker already mentioned the cover or electric fuel pump.
With an Edelbrock 302 4bbl intake, the EGR spacer off a truck, a Holley 1850-2 carb, factory headers from an 87 up and dual exhaust, it got 21.5 MPG or better on the highway and was a faster than the 79 302.
your T-5 will not use the SROD bell housing.
Jrichker already mentioned the cover or electric fuel pump.
With an Edelbrock 302 4bbl intake, the EGR spacer off a truck, a Holley 1850-2 carb, factory headers from an 87 up and dual exhaust, it got 21.5 MPG or better on the highway and was a faster than the 79 302.
Follow this tech note for the best way to wire a fuel pump kill or anti-theft switch...
Note: this only works with full EFI systems. If you are doing carb equipped car, the wire colors and diagram will not work without modification.
Revised 16-Mar-2017 to change wire color and add 91-93 fuel pump wiring diagram.
Note: Use automotive gauge wiring that is rated for 105° C. The wire spool will be marked and the wire may also be marked. The higher temperatures that automotive wiring is exposed to makes this a necessity.
On 86- 91 cars the fuel pump relay is under the driver’s seat, 92 and later cars, the fuel pump relay is under the Mass air duct on the passenger fender well.
Note that the wire colors changed in 1991, so there are two different descriptions.
86-90 model cars:
Cut the Red/Black wire going to the fuel pump relay. Splice a 16 or 18 gauge wire into the wire and connect it to one side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the other end of the red/black wire going to the fuel pump relay. When you are done the switch should be in the middle of the spliced Red/Black wire that goes to and comes from the fuel pump relay. Using the control side of the circuit allows you to use light gauge wire and light duty switches. There is less than 1 amp going through the circuit, so you don’t have to worry about voltage drop across the wiring depriving the fuel pump of electrical power.
91-93 model cars:
Cut the Red wire going to the fuel pump relay. Splice a 16 or 18 gauge wire into the wire and connect it to one side of the switch. Connect the other side of the switch to the other end of the Red wire going to the fuel pump relay. When you are done the switch should be in the middle of the spliced Red wire that goes to and comes from the fuel pump relay. Using the control side of the circuit allows you to use light gauge wire and light duty switches. There is less than 1 amp going through the circuit, so you don’t have to worry about voltage drop across the wiring depriving the fuel pump of electrical power.
The design of this plan doesn't require an expensive or heavy-duty switch. It just needs to be reliable and able to withstand being turned off and on frequently. When you turn it on, it needs to stay on and not turn off . This type of switch is labeled SPST (single pole, single throw). It is a NOT a momentary contact but a constant contact type switch.
Most push button switches and switches that spring the handle back when you let go of it are momentary contact switches. These will not work for a for a fuel pump kill switch.
More information about switches is available at https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/switch-basics/poles-and-throws-open-and-closed
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Thank you for the information. At this time, I have been collecting parts for about 2 years and hope to now have time to finish my Pace Car. I retired from the Air Force/Marines in 1993 and have had several cars to restore, but never finished. I first did a 66 Mustang Coupe. I learned how to paint on that one. Painted it Ford Lazer red.........found out how expensive red paint is. Spilled a bit out of my gun and figure I step on about $100 of paint each time I go the that area in my garage. Then got a Mustang II Monroe Handler. Had it just about finished, when someone offered A LOT OF CASH and off it went. Got another II Handler and sure enough someone found out and I made a nice profit....still no finished car. So I decided to get out of the rare Mustang II area and bought a 1958........ready.....Edsel station wagon. Complete, just needed a lot of work. Yes, I was the subject of endless jokes. While all of this was going on, I was running my business. I made sequential LED systems for Muscle cars. Started with Mustangs and before I knew it, I was working 8 days a week 20 a day. Wife told me I needed to end the madness. I really like making the lights and, to honest, had the best products on the market. Had 15 stores caring my line, Mustang, GTO, Chevy, MoPar and more. Sold the company several years ago and now hope to finish a Mustang. As a point, I am looking for a 70s Capri......love those. The German Mustang!. Anyway, after a misque getting a beautiful Lincoln Mark IV with a complete interior for my Edsel, I put the Edsel on ebay to see what the market was. Sold the next day! OOPS forgot what I wanted to say, sorry for the long story. I found this Pace Car for $250...again only a rolling body with parts car. the parts car stayed. I just picked some parts. So I picked up a 5.oL from a 91 GT.......body did not look good after running into a big truck, but the engine was there. I also picked up rear end with disc brakes and front disc brakes with all the parts from a 95 Mustang. Spent all last summer doing body work. I have a bunch of questions as I am the true back yard mechanic. I did get to get my MG runnning while in England...........yea someone offered a bunch of money and ended up with an English car. So, Thank you all for the information. I do hope to have this one finished. Photos to follow. Larry
Oregon Guy again. Well, I am beginning to think I don't have the proper "technique" posting my running commentary of my 79 Pace Car. I hope just adding to this is correct. But I will continue until I get the proper guidance. Today I figured out how to fix my T-5 problem. As the old saying from my USMC days, a little C4 can fix any problem.....I found a re built T-5 for my year Mustang on Craigs list here in Oregon. Will take my 2003 T-5 in trade plus cash. It will fit my 79 and bolt up the 91 Engine. Even got a loan from my wife to buy it now. Engine is almost done also. Now for the paint color selection......OEM pewter gray or Lazer Red. Decals are all new and ready. Larry Did I mention i will be installing an 8 track QUAD stereo??? Even have quad Kingston Trio tapes....Larry
Your 'technique ' is fine. You should add pics of work you do along with commentary on what you are doing, you can keep this thread going, just edit the title and a moderator (like myself) can move this to gen talk and turn this into a 'progress thread'.
Thank you for the advise. I shall begin including photos. Can you change this to..........Oregon Pace Car Story to Coolness? thanks. Oh, if you go to a NASCAR race and get pass the ropes by mistake, take a photo very quickly because the people running at you are not very happy your doing this.....
Here are some photos showing my Pace Car and the progress and parts so far. I did most of the body work last summer. Waiting for warm temperatures to begin paint. Also still thinking about color. OEM pewter or Ford Lazer Red....Any inputs feel free.........GREEN is not in the mix. Have a set of rims I was going to use on my Monroe Handler. Kept them for this. can not remember what year these came off. Got them at a local yard. Even found the centers. I do have a lift in my garage. Note the EDSEL. Moved lift to center space. Finishing engine this week. Then starting on interior parts then rewiring dash and custom instruments using VDO gauges.. So far so good. Larry
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OOPS. forgot. I wanted a rear window cover? Found a REALLY nice one. Then traded a set of LED lights for a MII for a 1980 parts car. Now I have three back window louvers.... so if someone is in need, feel free to let me know. I do have a helper who sometimes helps out.... Larry
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As for color, it’s the paint and graphics that set the pace car apart. Otherwise it’s not much different than any other 79. If you do not like the original colors, how about something that goes with the graphics?
Thanks for the input. I am beginning to lean towards the OEM color. I have all the graphics from the OEM look. Thinking about painting the graphics instead of decals. But, teaching myself to paint and don't want to get into a place I can not correct. Will keep posting. Larry
Just a question regarding interior panel repair. I am in between projects for today, either mow the lawn or give the cats a bath...So I decided to start working on the interior panels, which are black. I washed them with Dawn soap. I will be suing SEM paint. However, the last set I did, i used Bulldog adhesion promoter. This is designed to stick to the plastic then the paint. Has anyone used this? Is it recommended? I used it on a 65 Mustang, but sold the car, which is what I wanted to do, so I don't know if this worked well and lasted, or was not such a good idea. Any thoughts? Thanks, Larry
Dawn is a good degreaser, but it is designed to make bubbles and may not come off as easily as you want it to. And getting rid of any silicon from Armor All or STP Son of a Gun is absolutely needed for paint or vinyl dye to stick. TSP (tri sodium phosphate) is what the pros use to clean a lot of surfaces before applying a new coat of something. (Walls concrete floors, plastics and the cats if you want to add racing stripes). Usually, a mild 3-M pad is part of the surface prep. What color or type did you use to lightly scuff the surface, but not mess up the fake grain pattern?
Is the SEM paint in a spray can or are you using a spray gun? To get the best answer, I'd check with SEM for the adhesion promoter they recommend.
There are plenty of red interiors and replacement pieces that have been dyed or painted black to get your durability question answered, even you need to ask that question in a new post so more see it. .
@Davedacarpainter might be of help here.
Is the SEM paint in a spray can or are you using a spray gun? To get the best answer, I'd check with SEM for the adhesion promoter they recommend.
There are plenty of red interiors and replacement pieces that have been dyed or painted black to get your durability question answered, even you need to ask that question in a new post so more see it. .
@Davedacarpainter might be of help here.
Well, I do.
And it is because of you.
And you are not immune to the occasional misspellings.
And some are victims of 'auto-correct' that is not always 'correct'.
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