over heating mustang, who knows SBFORDS

[Pakrat]

Or simply pop the exisiting thermostat into a pot of water on the stove and test it first. Buying more parts for trial and error can become a very expensive way to troubleshoot problems down the road. When possible, always verify any part new or old first.

(Boy that would make SD proud!)

 

[phinkel26]

ok, I tried some things and took some notes. Maybe this will help find out what the problem is. At idle I got it set to 10 degrees with zero vacume. Now when I rev it to see if it is mechanically advancing it will advance all the way past 30 and keep going according to how I rev it. Finally once I put the vacume back on and the motor at idle it will run at 30 degrees, and as i rev it will advance much more. Ok I hope this helps in figuring out what the hell my problem is with this bucket. Thanks, and I am standing by....."off work"

 

[phinkel26]

something else to ad to that, at idle I am pulling between 15-16 Hg on the vacuum guage. and at 2000 rpm about 25 Hg.

 

[65 project]

Did you have the heating problem before you put on the new carb and had the heads reworked? Has the block had any work done on it?

 

[pabear89]

ok, I tried some things and took some notes. Maybe this will help find out what the problem is. At idle I got it set to 10 degrees with zero vacume. Now when I rev it to see if it is mechanically advancing it will advance all the way past 30 and keep going according to how I rev it. Finally once I put the vacume back on and the motor at idle it will run at 30 degrees, and as i rev it will advance much more. Ok I hope this helps in figuring out what the hell my problem is with this bucket. Thanks, and I am standing by....."off work"

Have you verified the timing marks on the Balancer to be correct?
Run the #1 to tdc and check the marks. Old Balancers can have the outer ring slip.
Are you hooking the vac adv to a carb port or a vac port?
you seem to be getting too much advance which will cause it to overheat.


PB

 

[D.Hearne]

If your dist is advancing when you hook it back to a vacuum source, you either have it hooked to the wrong source, or your carb's throttle is open too far and exposing it to manifold vacuum. If it's a Holley carb, connect the vacuum advance to the port on the right side of the primary metering block.

 

[restomodracing]

You originally said that your engine ran fine at idle and heated up at higher rpm. That means that your radiator is large enough to cool at idle but not at cruise speed. Is the radiator new? If so, where did you buy it. Often times when you purchase discount radiators, a lot of the tubes have solder in them from the manufacturing process. In other words, it doesn't cool correctly. Another thing to keep in mind is that a four core radiator takes more pressure to cause the air to pass through it. Thats because it is thicker due to four cores. One other thing comes to mind, the lower hose should have a spring in it. Some hoses are known to collapse if it doesn't have it thus cutting off water flow. Just a few thoughts.

 

[phinkel26]

sorry for the delay on responding. well out of frustration i decided to pull my waterpump to check to make sure the impeller was on the correct way and it looked ok, and clean. but I exchanged it for one that looks like this one here shown on ebay: mine looks like that impeller instead of the fan looking one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33604&item=2462610482

I am hoping for some reason my old water pump was part of the culprit, also at the autopart store they dont have lower radiator hoses with springs in them, they said they used too but dont carry them anymore. I tried two stores and the same with both. where can i get the lower radiator hose with a spring in it? Also the vacuum for my distributor is comming from the passenger side lower front corner of my carburetor. It is literally comming out of the front corner/bottom of my carb, and I have one more vacuum line comming from my trans I beleive to the side of my carb , passenger side as well. I also bought a better temp. guage and got it all hooked up so I can be really accurate on my temp. readings. other than that I am still putting the new waterpump in. One other thing the ford mustang book I have doesnt say wich line is wich on the water pump, the lower radiator hose is obvious but the two upper ones are heater core on the left side when looking at it, and the one on the right side is to the intake? Just wanted to verify that. Thanks Again, I am determined to get this car running 170's all day long

 

[crushnut]

sorry for the delay on responding. well out of frustration i decided to pull my waterpump to check to make sure the impeller was on the correct way and it looked ok, and clean. but I exchanged it for one that looks like this one here shown on ebay: mine looks like that impeller instead of the fan looking one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33604&item=2462610482

I am hoping for some reason my old water pump was part of the culprit, also at the autopart store they dont have lower radiator hoses with springs in them, they said they used too but dont carry them anymore. I tried two stores and the same with both. where can i get the lower radiator hose with a spring in it? Also the vacuum for my distributor is comming from the passenger side lower front corner of my carburetor. It is literally comming out of the front corner/bottom of my carb, and I have one more vacuum line comming from my trans I beleive to the side of my carb , passenger side as well. I also bought a better temp. guage and got it all hooked up so I can be really accurate on my temp. readings. other than that I am still putting the new waterpump in. One other thing the ford mustang book I have doesnt say wich line is wich on the water pump, the lower radiator hose is obvious but the two upper ones are heater core on the left side when looking at it, and the one on the right side is to the intake? Just wanted to verify that. Thanks Again, I am determined to get this car running 170's all day long

So the lower rad hose you have on there now doesnt have a spring in it? It should be pretty easy to find one with a spring in it, im not sure why you are having trouble finding one, what stores have you tried? and are there any more that you can try around where you live? Lets hope that the new water pump helps, but that really isnt the best way of fixing a problem by just changing parts hoping it will fix the problem, i think some of us know that from experience

Did you have the heating problem before you put on the new carb and had the heads reworked? Has the block had any work done on it?

Did you ever answer this question?

Btw- What temp thermostat do you have in there now? What did you have before, and did you try a new one or boil it to see if it is functioning properly?
If you are determined to get this running at 170 all day long, then put in a 160 thermo What is your new temp. guage reading? You are correct on the hose routing on the water pump.

Good luck And keep us posted.

 

[67GTA-FB429]

Why don't you try the local Ford dealer for the lower radiator hose??

 

[D.Hearne]

Maybe he's using one of those "universal" flex hoses that have the spring built into it. One of the heater hose connections is for the heater hose return, the other connects to the bypass hose from the T-stat housing. What carb are you running pinkel26 ?

 

[ivygtp]

Don't laugh, but had a similar situation. Turned out that two of my spark plug wires were mixed up. After switching them back, no more overheating. It's the simple things sometimes that get overlooked.

 

[phinkel26]

I havent had time yet but that could be a possibility, and I will double check that this weekend. I am running a Holley 650, and it runs lean that i know of so thats a problem I need to look into. I am also wondering did my vacuum lines sound like they were in the correct places? Also I am running an electronic ignition I am wondering if thta could be causing some sort of error. Has anyone heard anything on thta one, wether or not any of the electronic ignitions have been causing strange heating problems. Also if anyone knows of a good step by step tech sheet on adjusting the mixture on my Holley it would be greatly appreciative. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[D.Hearne]

The vacuum hose to the distributor needs to be connected to the port on the right side of the main metering block. Where you have it, is full manifold vacuum. That's why your timing jumps up when you hook it back up and why you can't idle it back down. Mixture adjustment just needs to be about 1 1/2 turns out on the mixture screws. These just regulate the idle mixture. The A/F ratio at normal operating rpms is adjusted by swapping the jet screws inside the fuel bowls.

 

[jscar1968]

Just curious if you've checked for air leaks around your intake and intake fittings. That would also give you a lean mixture problem, especially around higher revs. Just take a can of wd-40 and spray around all the seams of your intake and fittings with the car running. If the rpms go up, then you've got a leak. I had the same problem with my 66 289 stang. New engine and all like what you've got.