I've replaced the thermostat 3 times already. The one in the car now is a fail safe. I would think it should be fine.
The radiator is an EBay 3 row aluminum radiator with two electric fans. Could it be possible that this radiator isn't sufficient?
Explain a lot of pressure, 16lbs is not a lot of pressure, you should be able to squish the upper hose with the cap on and system hot, engine running. Start by pulling you t-stat and test it in a pot of water on the stove, a meat temp gauge will work, just don't tell your significant other what your doing, some frown on using kitchen tools around automotive parts.
If your t-stat checks out have your radiator checked out.
This is contingent on other parts of your cooling system operating correctly
Then why do all the cars, trucks, buses, trains and airplanes use them now?Has the question been raised, did the engine run too hot BEFORE electric fans were installed? Generally, my opinion only, but based on personal experience, electric fans are no damned good. imp
@karthiefThen why do all the cars, trucks, buses, trains and airplanes use them now?
@Dan BenavidesGuys,
Here's the back ground in my overheating issue. As the weather got warmer so did the car with the stock radiator and fan clutch. This is why I decided to upgrade it.
I am using the stock instrument gauge to read the temp. It did work perfectly before the issues started. At the moment temps are reaching 250-260 degrees and do not change much when I am driving the car.
I don't know what brand the radiator or fans are. They are made in China.
Someone mentioned weather or not I see water flowing at the top of the radiator with the cap off, yes I do when the thermostat opens up but Its very slighty. When I rev the motor I can't really really tell if the flow increases, i don't think it does.
Any ideas? Could this still be the thermostat ? I'm very stumped at this point and becoming an expert at pulling the thermostat. The water passages looked clean when I replaced the water pump and timing cover so I don't think there's a clog in the system.
What should I do next ?
@Dan Benavides
Look closely at the lower radiator hose. I have seen them collapsed enough occasionally to seriously restrict the flow. If opening the radiator cap cautiously allows looking in with a light, water flow should be readily visible, even at idle, of course, thermostat must be open (or left out, to do the flow test, best way). Good radiator hoses have a spiral wire spring within them to prevent collapsing, which usually is due to the suction produced by the water pump at it's inlet. imp
Yeah I took the car to a local mustang shop and they told me that they ran a radiator test and the fluid turned pink. They seam to think that the block may be cracked. They are going to open up the motor and check everything out. I hope it's just the head gaskets but if it's the block I'm going to have to find a new block. At that point I don't know if I should keep the 302 or just swap in a 351? I'm not trying to spend too much money.I'm starting to think cracked head or head gasket. Run a compression test on every cylinder.
Grab another 5.0, I wouldn't consider a 351 a 'budget swap' although it could be with some sharp searching, and not all 5.0's are the same, some have lower compression than others.Yeah I took the car to a local mustang shop and they told me that they ran a radiator test and the fluid turned pink. They seam to think that the block may be cracked. They are going to open up the motor and check everything out. I hope it's just the head gaskets but if it's the block I'm going to have to find a new block. At that point I don't know if I should keep the 302 or just swap in a 351? I'm not trying to spend too much money.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?