Overheating problem..Need major help.

level drop is good huh...well i mean do you think i should take it out 2night for a run..beat it up alittle..adn then do the whole BURPING system again to see if it drops anymore?
after i did it today i got a new stant cap...and sat in the lot for 15 minutes in 90* weather and it stayed at 195..with the heat on...so..i think it helped alittle...do u think its a good idea to burp it again?
 
latham83 said:
When i first start it up from cold and let it sit..it will stay steady at about 190..
as soon as i get driving..on a more cooler night...like 60 out... it will bump to 195 and pretty much stay there UNTIL i come to stop for a long time, or idle in a parking lot for about 5-10 minites..it will slowly climb to 205-210 and something sounding like coming from below the engine starts KNOCKING. .

I had the exact same problem with my car and I MEAN exact minus the knocking. After replacing many parts including head gaskets, intake gasket and the intake itself, installing a electric fan in addition to the factory one (mounted on the front of the radiator), thermostats, no thermostat. Still the same thing, until one day the temp would start climbing even on the initial start up. This FINALLY told me that there was not enough air flow at idle. (staying cool until I drove the car was throwing me off big time). I replaced the fan clutch , and as soon as I started the car, I could tell I had found the problem. The fan would "roar" when I hit the gas. I would say that your fan clutch is on its last legs, just as mine was.
 
latham83 said:
level drop is good huh...well i mean do you think i should take it out 2night for a run..beat it up alittle..adn then do the whole BURPING system again to see if it drops anymore?
after i did it today i got a new stant cap...and sat in the lot for 15 minutes in 90* weather and it stayed at 195..with the heat on...so..i think it helped alittle...do u think its a good idea to burp it again?
yep, level drop initially tells you it bled some air out of somewhere. sounds good.
195 is normally right in the game for most 5.0's (but most dont knock at 205).

you should not need to burp it again. the system is supposed to bleed itself (it is a closed system, although a failing rad cap will create an open system). so it should bleed air into the overflow, which then obviously vents into the atmosphere. but some of our cars need some help with the bleeding. once should have gotten the really buried air out (from the heater core). it will continue to bleed the little bit possibly left.

i would go ahead and take it out tonight and see how it does. just keep an eye on temps.
good luck.
 
well it seemed to keep it 195 the whole night..even with idleing in a lot...i think the bleeding helped..but i still want it to be cooler...espcially with the hot weather round here...
Hissin u seem to know whats goin on here..so...what would be to my advantage..a 3 row rad. or an electric fan..i think i wanna go with the fan tho...can u please tell me models are good and that dont require very much mods to fit them in? and how big of an alternator do i need then....3G i know that..but what amps?
 
im good with some stuff, and smart enough not to blow smoke when i dont know. i really think a good stat is gonna help (with Mr G vs parts store 180, i ran 10 cooler with no other changes). when you compare the two stats, you will laugh and vow to never buy a parts store stat.

3 core is always good. i know im gonna run a 3 core from AZ or Pep (Modine and GDI brands. both good) when i need one.

fans - your call. im gonna go with a Mark VIII cuz it is so hot here. i would get the biggest alternator you can, regardless. you cant have too much juice. do it once and be done with it.

gotta run - that is what came to mind. i know others will have tons of info for you. BTW, i dont think flex fans are too efficient. JNK111 was right about how much a clutch makes a difference (vs old or a flex fan)...IMHO.

good luck.
 
Can't recommend a good electric fan since I'm running the stock one, but I can suggest a 3G alternator for you.

The stock 3G alternators were 130 amps, and that's about the minimum you'd want to get. For a few bucks more, you could step up to 150 or 160 amps.

At idle, the 130 amp alternator should be able to keep up with the electric fan and some accessories -- it'll probably put out 50 to 60 amps. If you want to install a big stereo, then you should probably go with one of the bigger alternators.

Alterstart sells 130 to 200 amp alternators, with lifetime warranties, fairly cheap (I paid $120 for a 150 amp last year). You'll also need (and DO NOT listen to anyone who says you won't) a wiring upgrade kit (about $50 from PA Performance). Plenty of online how-to articles on doing the upgrade can be found with a quick search.
 
latham83 said:
lol nice try buddy but i dont have a clutch lol..i got a flex fan..but i do think i need an electric..

The flex fan could be part of the problem. Some people are going to disagree with me on this, but for a STREET car it will be hard to beat the ford factory fan. If you are racing then electric would be the way to go, but for a street car stay with the stock fan set-up. It will also save you some money with not having to install a larger alternator.
 
yea..im probably gonna buy an electric tho....better to spend the extra money and run nice and cool....I know black magic sells a single and a dual slim setup that is suppose to BOLT RIGHT UP with no mods...is this true and are they worth the money? Anyone have one...which one should i go with?
and where is good place to buy a big alternator for it...paperformance has good stuff but their 160 amp is 200$!!! hmm..