P.A performance 3g wiring kit worth it?

J

jerryD

Founding Member

Mar 16, 2000

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Gladstone, MO

Apr 25, 2006

#21

• Apr 25, 2006

• #21

this may help some. just don't hook the 10ga wires back up though.

 

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8950HO

New Member

Mar 31, 2005

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Apr 25, 2006

#22

• Apr 25, 2006

• #22

jmd2914 said:

is it safe to reuse the wiring that plugs right back in? or do i need to use a bigger gauge? and again sorry for the noob question but how do i tap into the wire and where do i plug it in?

Click to expand...

For the stator wire hookup,I pushed a 18-22ga spade connector into the stator terminal on the factory spade connector.
You could also use a quick splice connector.

 

J

jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

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Napa, California

Apr 26, 2006

#23

• Apr 26, 2006

• #23

ok so that diagram kind of confused me. so i cut the black/white wire and then that plugs in to the back of the 3g? or am i missing something? so what goes over to the starter relay?

 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists

Jul 11, 2003

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17

Senoia, GA

Apr 26, 2006

#24

• Apr 26, 2006

• #24

Why do all of the instructions from all these differen't companys and such say to reconnect the 10 gauge wires in addition to the new 4 gauge if its a bad idea? I plugged mine back in but Im having second thought about it now.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Apr 26, 2006

#25

• Apr 26, 2006

• #25

jmd2914 said:

ok so that diagram kind of confused me. so i cut the black/white wire and then that plugs in to the back of the 3g? or am i missing something? so what goes over to the starter relay?

Click to expand...

Yes, that wire gets a spade terminal and gets inserted into a dedicated plug on the 3G (your 2G did not have a separate dedicated plug for this wire).





IMHO, there is no need to keep the stock charge cable(s) connected at the alternator. While there's no real benefit, there's the chance that if something happens to the new charge cable (a terminal comes off, etc) that the stock wires will try and flow all the 3G current. Then one has to hope that the stock fusible link blows before the harness catches on fire. And since folks have done the 3G upgrade and not upgraded the wiring, and had a fire down the line, that suggests to me that the chance of an issue is real.

 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists

Jul 11, 2003

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Senoia, GA

Apr 26, 2006

#26

• Apr 26, 2006

• #26

I followed the 10 gauge wire and it just went back to the starter solenoid, so I unhooked it since I already have a 2 gauge wire and 200 amp fuse between the alt and solenoid. Keep in mind it was easy for me to trace the wire because on 79 mustangs the starter solenoid is on the passenger side of the car.

 

J

jmd2914

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Sep 6, 2002

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Napa, California

Apr 26, 2006

#27

• Apr 26, 2006

• #27

instead of using an actual fuse or fuseable link could i use a breaker of some sort? and is this the only place i need a fuse or breaker? i dont need one on the smaller wires?

 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists

Jul 11, 2003

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Senoia, GA

Apr 26, 2006

#28

• Apr 26, 2006

• #28

A breaker does the same thing as a fuse or fuesable link except you can reset it. So yes you could use one. You only need it ont he power wire going to the starter solenoid and it should be 200 amps. I used a breaker on my fan controller so I wouldn't be SOL in traffic if I had a short.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Apr 26, 2006

#29

• Apr 26, 2006

• #29

795.0pacecar said:

I followed the 10 gauge wire and it just went back to the starter solenoid, so I unhooked it since I already have a 2 gauge wire and 200 amp fuse between the alt and solenoid. Keep in mind it was easy for me to trace the wire because on 79 mustangs the starter solenoid is on the passenger side of the car.

Click to expand...

That makes it simple for ya. On aero foxes, the switch-and-sense wire is downstream in that stock charge cable a little bit, so it has to be found and connected directly to the solenoid if the stock charge cable is removed. This is why some of us just leave the stock charge cable connected at the solenoid (for that one wire) and leave the alternator side of the charge cables disconnected (I insulated the end of the 2G plug and buried it).

Kevin and some of the other folks have pulled that stock cable and made the direct connection of the S&S wire - I was too lazy.

 

timewarped1972

Member

Jun 17, 2004

642

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16

mesa, az

Apr 26, 2006

#30

• Apr 26, 2006

• #30

yes thats correct, what hissin said about the wiring. if you decide later on down the road to disconnect or remove the old wiring you then buy a 3g connector like this one in the pic, or theres another plug available from www.fordfuelinjection.com.

the one in the pic came from www.50resto.com.

these plugs basically when spliced in eliminate any need for any of the old wires.

the regular way with out using the plug, and just leaving the one plug disconected works fine. my stock plug went bad so instead of just replacing it i bought the 3g plug.

 

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jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

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Napa, California

Apr 26, 2006

#31

• Apr 26, 2006

• #31

so all i really other than the power wire to the battery is the plug and black white wire, which plugs back into the 3g at the other plug? or am i confused again?

 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row

Oct 17, 2004

1,796

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Woodward Ave.

Apr 26, 2006

#32

• Apr 26, 2006

• #32

Nope that is it... I mean other than the alternator

 

J

jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

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Napa, California

Apr 26, 2006

#33

• Apr 26, 2006

• #33

alright so what gauge wire should i run for wire that goes from one side of the alt to the other? and where do i get the plug that goes into the back of the alt? cuz i need one of those too.

 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row

Oct 17, 2004

1,796

3

0

Woodward Ave.

Apr 26, 2006

#34

• Apr 26, 2006

• #34

In my thread there is a link to 04sleepers favorite site (FFI) and they sell a new 3G harness for around $10.00

Here is a direct link to the site: http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=67 You really only need the harness for the white black wire.

You can also go on ebay and search 3G conversions. A seller out of kentucky sells used alternators and the same section of harness. I picked mine up for $31.00 shipped.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Apr 26, 2006

#35

• Apr 26, 2006

• #35

jmd2914 said:

alright so what gauge wire should i run for wire that goes from one side of the alt to the other? and where do i get the plug that goes into the back of the alt? cuz i need one of those too.

Click to expand...

4 AWG should be sufficient. I use a fuse that's rated for the lowest rated component in the system (which was my 4 AWG cable). You want to fuse according to the weakest link, in other words.

LRS sells the stator plug for about 5 bucks. A shielded spade electrical connector should work though. Or hit a J/Y.

The articles and peoples' posts really tell ya what you need to do. Some of us just dont agree with some articles' having you keep the stock charge cable hooked up at the solenoid. And the rest is personal modification.

Good luck.

 

J

jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

937

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Napa, California

Apr 26, 2006

#36

• Apr 26, 2006

• #36

ok so let me recap, this is what i have sofar towards this project. new 130amp alt, 12ft of 4 gauge wire, a 100amp circuit breaker, and the rings for the end of the cable. what am i missing? and all i have to do is clip the white wire and splice it into the spade connector and other than that all i have to do is run the 4gauge wire for the power wire. so there should be nothing running to my starter relay right?

 

timewarped1972

Member

Jun 17, 2004

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mesa, az

Apr 26, 2006

#37

• Apr 26, 2006

• #37

yes you'll have the other end of the 4ga wire going to the selenoid. thats where the black and oranges go too. those black orange wires turn into another color wire that hooks to the selenoid. this wire must stay connected at the selenoid in addition to adding the new 4ga charge cable. however, at the alternator end, you only connect the new charge cable and not re connect the black and oranges.


basically, the stock alternator uses two electrical plugs. the 3g uses one big plug from your original 2g set up, a small plug for the stator ( white.black) wire, and the main 4ga power wire from the alt to the starter selenoid.

one of the 2g plugs right into the 3g, the other one has a white/black wire and 2 black.orange wires. you clip that white.black wire from that plug, put the proper connector or use a spade terminal on the end, and plug that wire into the small wire connector on the new 3g alt. then run your power wire from the alt lug on the back of the 3g to the positive side of the starter selenoid, and thats it.

as mentioned previously thats the basics, after you get that done you can choose if you want to clean it up any by using a new 3g plug to replace the old modified 2g one......

oh also.........you'll want more than a 100 amp breaker or fuse. if your using a 130 amp alt. i think you want a minimum of like 150 amp, seems like mine had 180 or 200....

 

J

jmd2914

Founding Member

Sep 6, 2002

937

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Napa, California

Apr 27, 2006

#38

• Apr 27, 2006

• #38

alright, so my power cable goes from the back of the alt to the starter relay not the battery post like it does now? and i should also take back the 100 amp and get a 150?