P/V checking ?'s/tips

Well I should hopefully be able to install my cam and heads soon. I almost have all the parts gathered. I don't want to risk anything, so I want to make sure I am checking things properly.

My combo consists of e7's 1.84"/1.54" valves, dual spring w/damper, Comp cams XE270HR, and cobra 1.7 roller rockers. The one thing I am worried about is whether or not the hydraulic lifter will compress when I am trying to crank it. I don't have any solid lifters around and I don't know anyone around me that would have some for me to try out. So I came up with this possible idea.

My plan was to measure the length of a hydraulic lifter that has not been compressed, and then make a replica of it out of rebar or something. Would this work as just for a temporary p/v checking device? Or would someone around my area happen to have solid lifters I could borrow for a weekend?

So how do you do it? Do you just put the clay straight onto the piston? How do you measure the smallest area, cut it into sections and then use a feeler guage? I know intake needs to have at least .080" clearance and exhaust is .100" clearance for revving to 6000rpm, or so I hear. How many different cylinders should I check? Do I crank it by hand or can I crank it with the starter? Will I be able to reuse an old head gasket for me to put on these heads?

Sorry for the length and all the questions, I just don't want to screw anything up.

Thanks for the help,
Chris
 
Either by the proper solid lifter or do what I did and weld (or have somebody weld) two spot welds in the corners of the hydraulic lifter at 90* apart to keep the "hydraulic" from compressing...it worked fine for me...

You only have to put the modeling clay on one piston...

You can reuse an old head gasket...

Crank it by hand...that way if you feel it "stop"...you can quit turning it over instead of risking damaging the valves, pushrods, etc...

Put the clay on the valve reliefs on the pistons...there are 4 of them...and use the feeler guages to measure...

If your going to degree the cam in...check the p-v clearance after you degree it in...
 
redterror302 said:
Did you just grind the spot weld off then when you were done? That doesn't sound like a bad idea. Thanks for the help, keep it coming.

Well I replaced my lifters with new ones so I just used a couple of my old lifters to weld on...I had a guy at a local body shop weld it real quick...he thought I was going to use my "welded" lifters in my car and run them like that... :rlaugh:

And then after I was done I just chunked them in the trash...

I'm no valvetrain geometry expert but I wouldn't measure anything to take the place of a lifter...that wouldn't be fully accurate...

Good Luck :nice:
 
nitroponynj said:
you wont have any piston to valve problems with that setup trust me.....I wouldnt even bother

How can you be so sure? There is no way to know that. All engines are a little bit different depending on deck height, thickness of head gasket, etc. I would rather spend the extra time and make sure instead of bending a valve, having to pay for that, and having my car out of commission for a while. Unless however you have a real good reason for me to trust you.

I am liking the welding idea for the lifter, I think I may have to go with that. How thick of a head gasket should I go with? I need a whole engine kit practically, so is there a certain one you guys would recommend?

Keep the replies coming.