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P0102 Code, Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low

  • Thread starter Thread starter snowboardkid503
  • Start date Start date Nov 7, 2014

snowboardkid503

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Oct 27, 2014
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#1
  • Nov 7, 2014
  • #1
So having a problem with check engine light on, did a diagnostic and poped out with P0102 error code. I checked to see if I had vacuum leaks but there's non. Went to autozone to see about getting a maf part but when he looks up my car it doesn't find what my car has already, it's a 95 ford Mustang v6

here's what mine looks like


Any help would be appreciated it thanks
 
D

Dacon

Active Member
Nov 6, 2005
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Nov 8, 2014
#2
  • Nov 8, 2014
  • #2
Your MAF is inside the black airbox, where it is marked "Mass air flow sensor". You need to disconnect your battery, then disconnect the 2 clips holding the air filter in, loosen the intake elbow from the throttle body, disconnect your rubber PCV hose, and disconnect the electrical connector (the clip at the very bottom of your photo) and remove that piece, from the throttle body to the filter.

The piece you removed, where it says "Mass air flow sensor" it is held together by 4 clips, pop them up slightly to split the case, carefully as they are connected by a wire, the MAF is the black unit inside connected to the wire. Disconnect the electrical connectr and it takes T20 security torx (the ones with a hole) to remove the sensor from it's place. Be careful, they break easily so do it gently straight up or down.

It sounds complicated, but it takes 10 minutes total.
 
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94GTCoupe

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Nov 8, 2014
#3
  • Nov 8, 2014
  • #3
I've never had a maf security torx screw break on me.

Before you buy a new maf sensor, try cleaning your old one.
remove it as described above, then with a q tip and some maf cleaner, gently and carefully clean the two maf elements, reset computer, then start her up and see if the fault reappears.
 
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snowboardkid503

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#4
  • Nov 8, 2014
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Dacon said:
Your MAF is inside the black airbox, where it is marked "Mass air flow sensor". You need to disconnect your battery, then disconnect the 2 clips holding the air filter in, loosen the intake elbow from the throttle body, disconnect your rubber PCV hose, and disconnect the electrical connector (the clip at the very bottom of your photo) and remove that piece, from the throttle body to the filter.

The piece you removed, where it says "Mass air flow sensor" it is held together by 4 clips, pop them up slightly to split the case, carefully as they are connected by a wire, the MAF is the black unit inside connected to the wire. Disconnect the electrical connectr and it takes T20 security torx (the ones with a hole) to remove the sensor from it's place. Be careful, they break easily so do it gently straight up or down.

It sounds complicated, but it takes 10 minutes total.
Click to expand...
Alright I will do it and let you guys know thanks so much

And the clip you was talking about is this one?
 
D

Dacon

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#5
  • Nov 8, 2014
  • #5
I circled them on this photo

The electrical connector is circled in red. Disconnect it so the wire going to your air filter is separate from the wires from your car.
The PCV is circled in blue, remove there or the other end of the rubber hose (at the engine oil fill tube, I find it easier to remove from there)
The 2 clips are in brown, only 1 is circled. The other one is near the arrow, behind the wire, just behind your rad hose. Not visible in picture. Just pop them up.
The intake elbow to the throttle body is circled in green, it's one hose clamp. Loosen and pull off.

Then the hole piece (from the green circle to the brown circle) will come out. If you are in a dusty area/leave it off for a long time you can cover your throttle body with a clean cloth/plastic bag to prevent dirt from getting in, but isn't necessary.

You can try cleaning it as Davis described, fixes a lot of problems. I mean be careful with the MAF sensor, the wires can break when going in / out if you are rough, you will need a T20 security torx bit ($2) to remove it.

 
Last edited: Nov 8, 2014
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snowboardkid503

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#6
  • Nov 8, 2014
  • #6
Dacon said:
I circled them on this photo

The electrical connector is circled in red. Disconnect it so the wire going to your air filter is separate from the wires from your car.
The PCV is circled in blue, remove there or the other end of the rubber hose (at the engine oil fill tube, I find it easier to remove from there)
The 2 clips are in brown, only 1 is circled. The other one is near the arrow, behind the wire, just behind your rad hose. Not visible in picture. Just pop them up.
The intake elbow to the throttle body is circled in green, it's one hose clamp. Loosen and pull off.

Then the hole piece (from the green circle to the brown circle) will come out. If you are in a dusty area/leave it off for a long time you can cover your throttle body with a clean cloth/plastic bag to prevent dirt from getting in, but isn't necessary.

You can try cleaning it as Davis described, fixes a lot of problems. I mean be careful with the MAF sensor, the wires can break when going in / out if you are rough, you will need a T20 security torx bit ($2) to remove it.

Click to expand...
Thanks so much will do tomorrow, ran into a problem when I was driving on the freeway hose decided to go out, or I think there was air in it and blow up
 
D

Dacon

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Nov 9, 2014
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  • Nov 9, 2014
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While looking for the broken hose/hole in hose, replace the belt. After coolant hits it squeels like a stuck pig. You can rinse it off while running with clean water (nothing else) and it may remove the sound, but it always seems to come back unless you replace the belt.
 
Last edited: Nov 9, 2014
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snowboardkid503

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Dacon said:
While looking for the broken hose/hole in hose, replace the belt. After coolant hits it squeels like a stuck pig. You can rinse it off while running with clean water (nothing else) and it may remove the sound, but it always seems to come back unless you replace the belt.
Click to expand...
What's the best way to get air out of the radiator? The hose I replace it harder them a rock with air :/ thanks for all your help man, I get the T20 going to do that here in a bit
 
D

Dacon

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Nov 9, 2014
#9
  • Nov 9, 2014
  • #9
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...ing-system-after-flush-very-important.628582/

Mike97gt said:
The way I do it without a bleed kit is to fill the system and then run the car with the cap off the expansion tank and the heater on full blast out the dash vents. while bringing the engine rpm's run the engine at 1500 rpm's or so and let it burp the air out and add coolant as needed, then when you feel strong steady heat out the vents top it off and put the cap back on.
Click to expand...
 
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snowboardkid503

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#10
  • Nov 9, 2014
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Sweet love you guys, just put everything back together and check light is off thanks so much guys, now I have abs light on lol need to fix that haha but thanks again guys
 

snowboardkid503

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  • Nov 9, 2014
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Dacon

How easy would this be to fix?
 
D

Dacon

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#12
  • Nov 9, 2014
  • #12
Heh, was my first problem with my sn95.

Very easy, $30 and some electrical connectors or solder if you have a gun. Cut the old one out (one wire at a time, to ensure the new one matches up), and solder/crimp connect the wire to the correct wire in new one in. You might need to replace the actual switch as well when you replace the wiring pigtail, mine needed both even though the switch looked good. Just dont mix up the wires, which is why it is recommended to do one wire at a time.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/headlight-switch-repairharness-9404.html

Also available at most part stores, rockauto.com, summit etc...
 
Last edited: Nov 9, 2014
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snowboardkid503

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#13
  • Nov 11, 2014
  • #13
So today check light came back on checked it same thing so guessing buy a new one?
 
D

Dacon

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Nov 12, 2014
#14
  • Nov 12, 2014
  • #14
That's what I would do, if cleaning it isn't getting rid of your P0102 code I would replace it. If you can have it tested, or feel like doing it yourself you can verify it is your problem before spending $80 (http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/maf-sensor-tests-1 ... there is 3 pages, pages 2/3 have voltages)
 
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Carl3.8v6opalfrost

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Dec 15, 2021
#15
  • Dec 15, 2021
  • #15
snowboardkid503 said:
So having a problem with check engine light on, did a diagnostic and poped out with P0102 error code. I checked to see if I had vacuum leaks but there's non. Went to autozone to see about getting a maf part but when he looks up my car it doesn't find what my car has already, it's a 95 ford Mustang v6

here's what mine looks like


Any help would be appreciated it thanks
Click to expand...
It's inside the nlack part of the air box. You have to separate it all to get it out its inside the left side part of airbox.in your picture the part that the wires are plugged into
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
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Aug 26, 2004
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Dec 18, 2021
#16
  • Dec 18, 2021
  • #16
Carl3.8v6opalfrost said:
It's inside the nlack part of the air box. You have to separate it all to get it out its inside the left side part of airbox.in your picture the part that the wires are plugged into
Click to expand...

Thanks for helping, but this post is over 7 years old. If the OP hasn't fixed their car by now, they're beyond help.
 
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