Paint

OrangeMustangGt · May 7, 2005

I just got a gallon of Black paint and a spray gun for 30. What do i need to mix with it for the 1:1 ratio? also, Can anyone give me a detailed, step-by-step on painting a car. I know it will take a while, im not concerned, but i want to do it right. thanks

RIO5.0 · May 7, 2005

I would get some mixxing cups at your paint supply store...and get plenty as you can only use them once. They have all the mix ratio's right on the sides...just fill to the proper marks with the correct amounts of paint, reducer, and hardner, stir it up and transfer to your gun....same applies for the clear coat...
Mix ratio's go by the paint makers recommedations...should be on the can or find it online...sometimes you can get a mixxing info sheet right at the store..
I know with PPG you have to get the correct reducer that will work with the temp you going to be shooting at....it affects the drying time.....like under x deg use xxx over x use xxx, that sorta thing....

Black is a tough one to shoot from what I hear...all the body work has to be on the money or it shows like crazy...

95riosnake · May 7, 2005

I'm also sure ARBOC can tell you quite a bit...just from lookin at his Project Blue Balls thread, he really seems to know his stuff.

OrangeMustangGt · May 7, 2005

ok i found out its made by NAPA...hmm

Nagash01WS6 · May 7, 2005

I sanded everything with 80... then went back over it with 320 to smooth it out. I went to my local paint store and they hooked it up with all the chemicals I needed and the paint. Shoot the car with EVERYTHING on it... I prepped it apart and sprayed it that way too... and I got lucky and it all matches. Now at least. I used 3 coats of base, and 2 coats of clear. Im going to be respraying the clear in a couple of weeks because it has thin spots... next time I would lay down at least 4 coats.

Just make sure you CLEAN EVERYTHING or you wind up with weird little spot showing through. CLEANLINESS is the key in painting a car. I used laquer thinner to clean the car prior to laying down primer. After that I used a product called Final Kleen to clean the primer after wetsanding. When wetsanding the primer or the clear, STAY AWAY FROM EDGES!!!! Before you spray your base though, make sure the primer is CLEAN, and ONLY use white towels.

If I think of anything else I'll post it up.

OrangeMustangGt · May 7, 2005

thanks for the info guys. Right now, i just went down and bought a gallon of red primer and the reducer. Next i gotta take and bondo and glaze putty all my dents, etc. Once i get the body all straight, and sanded, is laquer thinner the best thing to use to clean before primer? Thanks for the help guys, this is my first time painting a car.

95BLKGT5.0 · May 7, 2005

Go Here
Http://www.autobodystore.com

They have everything you need and there is a forum you can ask ques.
They have videos on painting 101.

This site is the bomb.

I have painted cars and boats for over 20 years and this site will teach you everything you need to know.

OrangeMustangGt · May 8, 2005

ok, question: I realize that i need to spray primer over my new fiberglass parts, my hood, my front saleen spoiler, and my new rear wing, my quesion is....do i also need to prime the existing paint? meaning when i sand off the clear on the factory paint, can i just apply the new paint over it, or do i need to prime the entire car? thanks!

RIO5.0 · May 8, 2005

GreenMustangGt said:
ok, question: I realize that i need to spray primer over my new fiberglass parts, my hood, my front saleen spoiler, and my new rear wing, my quesion is....do i also need to prime the existing paint? meaning when i sand off the clear on the factory paint, can i just apply the new paint over it, or do i need to prime the entire car? thanks!

I'm no pro but did my own so here are some things i learned...

You dont really need to sand all the clear off...just get the major ding's, bang's and chip's squared away and feathered out sanding wise....you really just want to "roughen" up the old clear so the primer can adhere...
Yes you want to prime the entire car with a good self-etching primer...this lets it adhere to the old paint....you just paint over old paint/clear and odds are it'll flake in due time....primer is a must do...
I used Hi-Build primer....it helps fill the minor imperfections and sands way easy...a big plus !!!
Prime then "guidecoat" your panels or parts....this lets you know when things a good and flat and blended when you sand...you can pick up low spots easy this way...just prime a panel, then dust it with a light coat of spray can Flat Black...then start sanding til the "guidecoat" is gone...works the balls for us novice's..
Once done and ready to paint you wanna put a sealer down to....we primed to get everything where we wanted..final cleaned....then shot the entire car with sealer...your sealer is applied just before the base...let that "set" per the instructions then go to town on the base....
I think the only thin I used sealer on was the entire body....the single parts were just primed/cleaned/based....
The pic is just before paint....this is cleaned and ready to shoot....we nailed it with sealer, Black...let that air out and hit the color...

Paint early the morning as the bugs and such are not really out if you doing a garage job....we started at 7 in the morning and at 6 pm rolled it out...

OinkAodeOink · May 8, 2005

BTW, if you guys are having problems with "fisheye" ( where the paint just does not want to stick and creates a dimple) they sell fisheye remover..

Sometimes no matter how clean you get it.. **** in the air, gun, compressor, ect can cause the paint/clear to fisheye. Silicone being a HUGE enemy here. DO not spray amour all or anything containing silicone around the car any time near painting time.
Thats also why its important to make sure you have a water trap on your compressor, and keep everything around and having to do with painting super clean!

BTW, black will show shoddy body work more then almost any color paint.. so I would concentrate on getting the body straight before shooting paint.

qwick94GT · May 8, 2005

RIO5.0 said:
I'm no pro but did my own so here are some things i learned...

You dont really need to sand all the clear off...just get the major ding's, bang's and chip's squared away and feathered out sanding wise....you really just want to "roughen" up the old clear so the primer can adhere...
Yes you want to prime the entire car with a good self-etching primer...this lets it adhere to the old paint....you just paint over old paint/clear and odds are it'll flake in due time....primer is a must do...
I used Hi-Build primer....it helps fill the minor imperfections and sands way easy...a big plus !!!
Prime then "guidecoat" your panels or parts....this lets you know when things a good and flat and blended when you sand...you can pick up low spots easy this way...just prime a panel, then dust it with a light coat of spray can Flat Black...then start sanding til the "guidecoat" is gone...works the balls for us novice's..
Once done and ready to paint you wanna put a sealer down to....we primed to get everything where we wanted..final cleaned....then shot the entire car with sealer...your sealer is applied just before the base...let that "set" per the instructions then go to town on the base....
I think the only thin I used sealer on was the entire body....the single parts were just primed/cleaned/based....
The pic is just before paint....this is cleaned and ready to shoot....we nailed it with sealer, Black...let that air out and hit the color...

Paint early the morning as the bugs and such are not really out if you doing a garage job....we started at 7 in the morning and at 6 pm rolled it out...

You did an awesome job

5.0_GT_kid · May 8, 2005

Subscribing for info.

RIO5.0 · May 8, 2005

qwick94GT...Thanks, although I had guys that know how to paint...I was mostly relegated to sanding and blocking and sanding and blocking and sanding.... as Oink mentioned it's all in the prep...

Another thing my painter freaked out about was Armorall....seems any trace of that stuff will cause bigtime fisheye..He's ruined work because of that stuff....I had a butt load of huge fisheye after I primed the rear bumper....W.T.F.??? then he looked at it and said...Armorall.... I always hit the bottom Black pc with Armorall...It never came thru in the color but I had to really clean and bale the hi-build to make it go away...

mo_dingo · May 8, 2005

Also make sure there is a flex agent in the paint. Since most of the lower body parts on our car are easily bendable, so I would spray it all w/ a flex agent.
Scott

OrangeMustangGt · May 8, 2005

thanks guys....what i bought is called "primer sealer" from napa. will this work ok? thanks alot for all the info guys. Also, how long should i wait between coats of primer, paint, and clear? And should i use wax/greese remover as the last step before priming?

RIO5.0 · May 8, 2005

GreenMustangGt said:
thanks guys....what i bought is called "primer sealer" from napa. will this work ok? thanks alot for all the info guys. Also, how long should i wait between coats of primer, paint, and clear? And should i use wax/greese remover as the last step before priming?

Go by the manufactuers req's on the can....when we shot mine it was like 20 mins between each phase...clean it... sealer...1st base...2nd base...clear...clear...done.

I hit the entire car once with degreaser in the pic.....from there on out til the final paint everytime I cleaned i used SprayWay and paper towels....
We used Scotch-Brite (Gray) to clean a panel to like re-prime it....pad it over...clean it with sprayway then nail it...
Panels should be shot right after sanding....if not than the pads help to clean it good before you re-prime...
The pads smoothen it out real nice...

SexyStang1994 · May 8, 2005

GreenMustangGt said:
thanks guys....what i bought is called "primer sealer" from napa. will this work ok? thanks alot for all the info guys. Also, how long should i wait between coats of primer, paint, and clear? And should i use wax/greese remover as the last step before priming?

YES.

And after you wetsand the primer.

They have a gallon of cleaner stuff especially for it.

OrangeMustangGt · May 8, 2005

ok thanks alot everyone helping, i went out and looked and turns out the stuff i bought is primer-surfacer....do i need a "sealer" after i prime it with what i have?

Venom351R · May 9, 2005

qwick94GT said:
You did an awesome job

yes he did, I saw the car last summer and it looks fruggin sweet

OrangeMustangGt · Jun 25, 2005

sorry guys for bringing this back from the dead, but im about to finally paint my car, and i still have a couple of questions.

the primer that i bought is called "primer/surfacer" now, once i spray that, what grit should i use to wetsand?

Next, once its all sanded and clean, do i need " sealer" and what is is, is it like another form of primer or what?

Ok, so once i get the color painted, how many coats should i do of black, and will a gallon of paint(1:1) mix, so actually 2 gallons be enough?

Next, do i need to sand after the color, before the clear?

Lastly. once the clear is on, do i need to do any type of fine sanding?

Thanks alot for any help.....im about to do this

oh, lastly i heard that people use windex as a cleaner before painting.....should i use this or just say laquor thinner?

Paint

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