Panhard Bar Selection

xxrequiemxx · May 7, 2008

Today I am purchasing Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Lowering Springs and an adjustable BMR Panhard bar.

I noticed on stangsuspension and on the BMR website they have two options for an adjustable panhard bar:

MPHR004 Chrome Moly "On-Car" Adjustable Panhard Rod w/rod ends $185.95 (Top item in the picture)

PHR006 Tubular "On-Car" Adjustable Panhard Rod $134.95 (middle item in the picture)

What is the difference and which one is sufficient enough for my particular application? They do not go into the difference between the two and why one costs more then another. I know they look different - but not to sure what the more expensive one gives me over the less expensive.

Thanks guys!
Nick

DarkFireGT · May 7, 2008

The first bar is adjustable on both ends and has rod ends. It's more for race applications. Rod ends transfer more noise and make the ride more harsh. The tubular adjustable panhard bar is just fine for a street car that sees some strip use. It's got poly bushings for lowered NVH. That is the bar I'm running.

SlideWRX · May 7, 2008

In my opinion rod ends are only needed when competing for a trophy. Even then, the FR500C race cars use poly bushing stuff. Stick with poly bushings.

As for the adjustability, you may notice the axle shift to one side when lowering. The adjustable helps keep it in the middle. My axle was off to one side without lowering, so I got the adjustable.

xxrequiemxx · May 7, 2008

Thanks Dark.

I just ordered the D-specs, eibach springs and bmr panhand bar.

Anyone got a write up on this install?

DarkFireGT · May 7, 2008

I used the write-ups in the ultimate sticky for the Roush kit for the springs and shocks/struts. Installation is pretty much the same. There's also a write-up for the BMR PHB in there.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=736018

xxrequiemxx · May 7, 2008

dark - you tha man

xxrequiemxx · May 7, 2008

After reading up on the writeup for the strut/shock/panhard bar/spring install, it looks pretty simple.

I think I may get one of my buddies who is car savy, and we might just pound this out.

Ill post before/after pics once it has arrived!

Also - how long does it usually take to recieve items from stangsuspension? I am in NY

DarkFireGT · May 7, 2008

I received them pretty quickly. 2-3 days if they're in stock and not being drop shipped.

It's very straight forward. I was astounded. Everyone complains about the fronts, but honestly, I knocked those out in less than 1/2 hour a piece. The rears are where I ran into problems. The top mounts for the shocks are a PITA and the springs didn't "drop out" as the write-up stated, even with dropping the rear sway bar.

xxrequiemxx · May 7, 2008

Dropped shipped? What do you mean?

DarkFireGT · May 7, 2008

Some retailers exclusively do this, so they don't need to stock parts (that way they can operate out of their home). Other times, it's just done when a part is not sold a lot, or if the retailer is out of stock. Drop shipping means you order from the retailer, they then order the part from the manufacturer/distributer and have it shipped directly to you.

xxrequiemxx · May 9, 2008

Dark - I ordered up my suspension stuff on Wednesday. My order status on stangsuspension.com says "paid". I was trying to find out the tracking #'s in addition to when they are going to be shipped.

I haven't heard back from any of the emails that I sent.

I call them up - and I am told to leave a voicemail or to send an email. No human answers the phone.

Is this the same sort of experience that you have had with them?

xxrequiemxx · May 9, 2008

No worries Dark. I finally got a hold of a customer support rep over there VIA the phone.

They are sending it all out today and should have tracking in a couple of hours.

W00t!

DarkFireGT · May 9, 2008

Cool. Yeah, they're great guys. Odd that you weren't getting a response. Must've been pretty busy. They'll call you a week or so after it's delivered to make sure your install went ok and everything.

kooldawg6 · May 9, 2008

DarkFireGT said:
Cool. Yeah, they're great guys. Odd that you weren't getting a response. Must've been pretty busy. They'll call you a week or so after it's delivered to make sure your install went ok and everything.

+1!
I got a call after my spring order, but not my APB order.

xxrequiemxx · May 17, 2008

Alright.

I finally installed my new suspension today. The springs and d-specs are all good to go. It was quite easy - but took us about 5 hours!

One thing I did notice by measuring with a tape measure is that the drivers side back wheel is SLIGHTLY lower than the passenger side wheel.

I adjusted the panhard bar with the weights as stated in the sticky.

Any reason why one side would be slightly lower?

Last question - I know that these shocks/struts are adjustable. Why would I want to adjust them or better yet - what does adjusting them do?

Thanks! Once I wash her later on today - ill post pics.

DarkFireGT · May 17, 2008

Good stuff. That's about what I spent doing it myself.

If one wheel has less gap that another, you're probably not on perfectly level ground. They'll also settle, but usually that's the reason. You also wanna make sure that you installed the springs the correct way on both sides, and didn't forget the rubber spring holder at the top of both of them.

Read the information that came with the D-Specs about adjustment. Then play around with the settings. Most people are running 3-5 from full hard on the rear and 4-7 from full hard on the front for the street. But it depends on what kind of driving you'll be doing and what's comfortable for you. Once you find what works for you, you'll probably never need to adjust them again, unless you go to the track and want to mess with them.

xxrequiemxx · May 17, 2008

Thanks Dark.

The front wheel gap is the same.

The rear is less then a 1/4 inch difference. You know the lip on the Mach 1 wheels we have? The size of the difference between them is the size of the lip.

NastyStang113 · May 17, 2008

DarkFireGT said:
The first bar is adjustable on both ends and has rod ends. It's more for race applications. Rod ends transfer more noise and make the ride more harsh. The tubular adjustable panhard bar is just fine for a street car that sees some strip use. It's got poly bushings for lowered NVH. That is the bar I'm running.

Exactly. I'm running the adj. panhard bar with the poly ends with zero problems. I also bought the brace since I'd have everything apart. I'm running the Tokico D-Specs with Steeda Sport Springs, love the ride. I'm running 5 from full hard in the rear and 4 from full hard in the front. It rides really smooth but controlled.

xxrequiemxx · May 17, 2008

This may be a stupid question, but how do you tell which # it is set on? I know you have to use the allen key to change this but did not see any numbers.

NastyStang113 · May 17, 2008

Turn the key clockwise until you can't anymore. That's full hard. Than back it off from there. We're talking about complete turns.

Panhard Bar Selection

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