Parts That Suck The Worst To Work On.

[warriorpluto]

Want to make it 4

Lol sure if you're ever in the northeastern Louisiana area

 

[oldskolbus]

Done a few heater cores/blower motors. one was a pita, the other simple. I think it was ac car it had a slot/cover where it just slid out. Top of my list is front control arms.. Had to cut them out, they were siezed

 

[bentley429isBAC]

Brake booster removal is pretty easy. Not really a fan of removing my transmission. TH400's are pretty heavy and I usually take it out myself. But since pretty much everything on the car has been messed with 1000 times everything is easy to take apart, no frozen rusty bolts and such.

 

[Grabbin' Asphalt]

Lol sure if you're ever in the northeastern Louisiana area

Love road trips

 

[warriorpluto]

Lol

 

[MFE92]

There is a simple trick to the brake booster swap. Slide the driver's seat all the way back, then prop the driver's side door open. You sit on the ground between the door and the body. Use a 3/8" drive 12" extension and a universal joint socket. You may need one of those weird semi deep Snap-On universal joint sockets the get the right clearance between the end of the bolt and the socket. You can get to all the nuts with a minimum amount of difficulty. Some tape or a disk magnet stuck in the socket helps hold the nuts to get it bolted back in place.


Same here... it is really difficult to get the broken bolt stubs out without damaging something else.


I have the fix for that, and it is inexpensive and lasts a very long time. The cost is: about $19 one side, $26 for both sides.

I'm all ears, because the ching-chong chinese replacement actuators on the market now wouldn't lift a sleeping baby's dick.

 

[jrichker]

I'm all ears, because the ching-chong chinese **** replacement actuators on the market now wouldn't lift a sleeping baby's ****.

This is the second 5.0 Mustang that I have used the same actuators in, and for over 10 years they have worked flawlessly.

See the attached PDF document.
If you don't already have it, you'll need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html - Adobe Reader download - All versions

 

[MFE92]

Cool, thanks

 

[Audiophile]

There is a simple trick to the brake booster swap. Slide the driver's seat all the way back, then prop the driver's side door open. You sit on the ground between the door and the body. Use a 3/8" drive 12" extension and a universal joint socket. You may need one of those weird semi deep Snap-On universal joint sockets the get the right clearance between the end of the bolt and the socket. You can get to all the nuts with a minimum amount of difficulty. Some tape or a disk magnet stuck in the socket helps hold the nuts to get it bolted back in place.


Same here... it is really difficult to get the broken bolt stubs out without damaging something else.


I have the fix for that, and it is inexpensive and lasts a very long time. The cost is: about $19 one side, $26 for both sides.

Jrichker is right on with the door lock actuator info. I used his info, along with a little of my own, and have solved that issue! They work just as they should now, and fairly simple to do.

 

[tannerc91gt]

Hydroboost assembly was a good time. All the fun of your boosted removal mixed with the damn steering rack. Removing the dash for anything sucks, not yang you HAVE to.
Pulling my brake pedal assembly the other day was awesome, really looking forward to cramming my head under there again.

Sorting out a f*ckin birds nest of harness was awesome too! Ford really intended for those damn things to stay!

I'm sure I could go on, I've dug into every damn corner of this thing this month :nice;

 

[mikestang63]

Not Ford related, but I had to change the damn HVAC door actuator motor on my Caddilac DTS. Spent 2 hours upside down in the drivers floor and you can't extend your arms. That car had more problems than I can remember. Last time I ever buy GM.