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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Parts That Suck The Worst To Work On.

  • Thread starter Thread starter hoopty5.0
  • Start date Start date Mar 11, 2014
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warriorpluto

Member
Aug 1, 2007
267
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19
monroe.LA
Mar 12, 2014
#21
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #21
Grabbin' Asphalt said:
Want to make it 4
Click to expand...
Lol sure if you're ever in the northeastern Louisiana area
 

oldskolbus

Founding Member
Apr 30, 2002
258
13
29
WV
Mar 12, 2014
#22
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #22
Done a few heater cores/blower motors. one was a pita, the other simple. I think it was ac car it had a slot/cover where it just slid out. Top of my list is front control arms.. Had to cut them out, they were siezed
 

bentley429isBAC

10 Year Member
Jul 23, 2009
922
188
84
CT
Mar 12, 2014
#23
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #23
Brake booster removal is pretty easy. Not really a fan of removing my transmission. TH400's are pretty heavy and I usually take it out myself. But since pretty much everything on the car has been messed with 1000 times everything is easy to take apart, no frozen rusty bolts and such.
 
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Grabbin' Asphalt

10 Year Member
Jun 10, 2013
2,029
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Atlanta, Ga
Mar 12, 2014
#24
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #24
warriorpluto said:
Lol sure if you're ever in the northeastern Louisiana area
Click to expand...

Love road trips
 

warriorpluto

Member
Aug 1, 2007
267
1
19
monroe.LA
Mar 12, 2014
#25
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #25
Lol
 

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
1,094
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124
Phoenix
Mar 12, 2014
#26
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #26
jrichker said:
There is a simple trick to the brake booster swap. Slide the driver's seat all the way back, then prop the driver's side door open. You sit on the ground between the door and the body. Use a 3/8" drive 12" extension and a universal joint socket. You may need one of those weird semi deep Snap-On universal joint sockets the get the right clearance between the end of the bolt and the socket. You can get to all the nuts with a minimum amount of difficulty. Some tape or a disk magnet stuck in the socket helps hold the nuts to get it bolted back in place.


Same here... it is really difficult to get the broken bolt stubs out without damaging something else.


I have the fix for that, and it is inexpensive and lasts a very long time. The cost is: about $19 one side, $26 for both sides.
Click to expand...

I'm all ears, because the ching-chong chinese replacement actuators on the market now wouldn't lift a sleeping baby's dick.
 
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jrichker

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Dublin GA
Mar 12, 2014
#27
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #27
MFE92 said:
I'm all ears, because the ching-chong chinese **** replacement actuators on the market now wouldn't lift a sleeping baby's ****.
Click to expand...
This is the second 5.0 Mustang that I have used the same actuators in, and for over 10 years they have worked flawlessly.

See the attached PDF document.
If you don't already have it, you'll need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html - Adobe Reader download - All versions
 

Attachments

  • Door lock actuator fix.pdf
    Door lock actuator fix.pdf
    592 KB · Views: 3,731
Last edited: Mar 12, 2014
Reactions: warriorpluto and Grabbin' Asphalt

MFE92

10 Year Member
Aug 25, 2010
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Mar 12, 2014
#28
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #28
Cool, thanks
 

Audiophile

Well-Known Member
Sep 9, 2013
202
48
59
Southern CA
Mar 12, 2014
#29
  • Mar 12, 2014
  • #29
jrichker said:
There is a simple trick to the brake booster swap. Slide the driver's seat all the way back, then prop the driver's side door open. You sit on the ground between the door and the body. Use a 3/8" drive 12" extension and a universal joint socket. You may need one of those weird semi deep Snap-On universal joint sockets the get the right clearance between the end of the bolt and the socket. You can get to all the nuts with a minimum amount of difficulty. Some tape or a disk magnet stuck in the socket helps hold the nuts to get it bolted back in place.


Same here... it is really difficult to get the broken bolt stubs out without damaging something else.


I have the fix for that, and it is inexpensive and lasts a very long time. The cost is: about $19 one side, $26 for both sides.
Click to expand...

Jrichker is right on with the door lock actuator info. I used his info, along with a little of my own, and have solved that issue! They work just as they should now, and fairly simple to do.
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
4,392
2,967
234
Indiana
Mar 13, 2014
#30
  • Mar 13, 2014
  • #30
Hydroboost assembly was a good time. All the fun of your boosted removal mixed with the damn steering rack. Removing the dash for anything sucks, not yang you HAVE to.
Pulling my brake pedal assembly the other day was awesome, really looking forward to cramming my head under there again.

Sorting out a f*ckin birds nest of harness was awesome too! Ford really intended for those damn things to stay!

I'm sure I could go on, I've dug into every damn corner of this thing this month :nice;
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
8,859
214
In the garage
Mar 13, 2014
#31
  • Mar 13, 2014
  • #31
Not Ford related, but I had to change the damn HVAC door actuator motor on my Caddilac DTS. Spent 2 hours upside down in the drivers floor and you can't extend your arms. That car had more problems than I can remember. Last time I ever buy GM.
 
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