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Passing Emmisions...not being legal...

  • Thread starter Thread starter cox_racing
  • Start date Start date Feb 26, 2004

cox_racing

Founding Member
Jun 18, 2002
430
0
0
Southeast TX
Feb 26, 2004
#1
  • Feb 26, 2004
  • #1
Sup stangers,

I've got a 93 GT that is far from legal. I've removed 2 cats, gutted the other 2. Removed the smog pump and all the lines running to the exhaust and back of the driver-side head. The car runs really rich, and I always have problems with codes 44 and 94.. (theremactor air control) as well as EGR problems. So I really don't think that I can stump the sniffer, unless someone has an idea that will help, besides putting all that crap back on.

Besides passing emmisions....does anyone know how I can get rid of the thermactor air control problem? I know there is alot of heavy duty racers out there that are running fuel injected systems, that don't have smog emmisions crap on, and they run like bats out of hell. So, how do you do it. How do you bypass all of this stuff, and stump the computer from giving you all these codes. Please let me know what I can do. As far as the EGR, I've replaced the sensor and vacume canister thing.....and still no luck getting rid of code 32. So I'm hoping something will be able to fix all these problems.

Thanks for your response in advance,
 

JadeFalcon

Founding Member
Mar 28, 2002
1,924
0
0
Arlington, TX
Feb 26, 2004
#2
  • Feb 26, 2004
  • #2
remove the lines from the back of your heads and invert the connector to cap them off, take all your emissions off, egr, all that. You shouldn't go into FMEM by just doing that.
 

cox_racing

Founding Member
Jun 18, 2002
430
0
0
Southeast TX
Feb 26, 2004
#3
  • Feb 26, 2004
  • #3
JadeFalcon said:
remove the lines from the back of your heads and invert the connector to cap them off, take all your emissions off, egr, all that. You shouldn't go into FMEM by just doing that.
Click to expand...

could you elaborate on inverting the connector to cap them off? I've already got the pipe coming off of the driverside head pluged up....is that what you are talking about? And how would I go about removing the EGR without leaving a hole in the throttle body, as well as not having problems with the computer by not having my sensor plugged in? Is there a bypass plate or connection harness that I can use to do this effectively?......AND GET RIDE OF THOSE CODES!!!!???? Also....what does FMEM stand for?

P.S. - Could any moderators delete my other double post.....dang computer

-Cox
 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!
Jul 3, 2001
10,262
1
0
Mill Creek, WA
Feb 27, 2004
#4
  • Feb 27, 2004
  • #4
If all is running well you should get no codes and the car should run fine. Isuspect you have toher sensor problems or you didn't cap the vacuum lines or something. I'd go back and recheck your work.

You will need cats to pass the sniffer, but I wouldn't call your car far from emissions legal...you can pass with alot of things.

BTW -- I wouldn't get rid of the EGR, the smog and cats are the main thing.
 

TheRedBlur

Active Member
Jul 7, 2003
15
0
38
seattle
Feb 27, 2004
#5
  • Feb 27, 2004
  • #5
I"m not running an egr on my car, what I did on my TB adapter (sn95) was to tape the inside end up and pour jb weld into the hole on the outside, then I ported the inside smooth. No egr, and no gaping hole to mess with airflow. as for your other problems bribary works sometimes
 

blown5.0

Founding Member
Sep 7, 1999
1,170
4
39
Central NJ
Feb 27, 2004
#6
  • Feb 27, 2004
  • #6
forget all that nonsense....

you think your car is running rich because of the teary eyes and smell when in fact it is running just fine and the smell is because the cats are no longer functional. leave the egr and egr sensor hooked up, leave the water lines on the tb too, they have no adverse effects on hp. no the others codes for the thermactor you wont be able to get rid of, because you no longer have it hooked up and the computer sees it as broke, that too wont effect hp just live with it. most close to stock mustangs without cats will pass emmisions if you do one thing before it is tested, retard the base timing to around 4 degrees, this will cause it to run hotter and help burn off junk in the exhaust. and just reset it when the test is over.
 
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