Pertronix Ignition

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MACH1MUSTANG

New Member

Aug 9, 2005

28

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0

Missouri

Oct 20, 2005

#1

• Oct 20, 2005

• #1

I have a 69 Mach 1 with a 351W. The motor is pretty built, pop up pistons, 11:1 compression, headers, 4BBL Holley but it still has the old points style ignition. I just recently intalled the Pertronix Ignitor and a Flame Thrower Coil. In the coil instructions it tells you to check to see if your system has a resistor and if it does remove it. After following the instructions it appears I only have 5.5 volts at the coil and need to remove the resistor but where is it? The car does run with the new parts in place but it seems to be cutting out at high RPM's (4,500 to 5,000) but not all the time. Could this be happening because of this resistor? I might put the old coil back on to see if it stops the cutting out problem. Any advise is welcome.

Thanks,
Jim

 

D

DJCarbine

New Member

May 4, 2005

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Oct 20, 2005

#2

• Oct 20, 2005

• #2

I believe you can fry the flamethrower coil with less than 12 volts, but thats just what I have heard.

The resistor sometimes is the actual WIRE, and in other cases its a ceramic resister block. Trace the wire to the firewall and then under the dash if you can, and see where it goes. My wire was a resistor wire, so I just swapped it out completely.

 

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bnickel

Founding Member

Aug 21, 2002

5,640

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77

lubbock, texas

Oct 21, 2005

#3

• Oct 21, 2005

• #3

on the back of the ignition switch where all the wiring plugs in, you will see a pink wire, that is the resistance wire. you will need to bypass that wire altogther

 

M

MACH1MUSTANG

New Member

Aug 9, 2005

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Missouri

Oct 23, 2005

#4

• Oct 23, 2005

• #4

New info. The cutting out problem is solved. I actually had a charging system problem that is now fixed and the cutting out guit. I keep hearing the red wire from the Pertronix ignitor need a 12 volt switchable power source. With my resistor wire still in place, the red pertronix wire is attached to the coil positive of the flame thrower coil. With the car running I have 9 volts at the coil positive and things seem to be working. Do I leave it alone, remove the resistor wire or try to get 12 volts to the ignitor?

Jim

 

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bnickel

Founding Member

Aug 21, 2002

5,640

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77

lubbock, texas

Oct 23, 2005

#5

• Oct 23, 2005

• #5

quick question, do you have the standard ignitor or the new ignitor II? the standard ignitor should run a full 12 volts and the new ignitor II is only supposed to run at 9 volts.

if you have the standard ignitor the engine will probably run much better with the full 12 volts. i would recommend bypassing the "pink" resistor wire.

if you have the ignitor II you'll be fine just like it is.

 

M

MACH1MUSTANG

New Member

Aug 9, 2005

28

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0

Missouri

Oct 23, 2005

#6

• Oct 23, 2005

• #6

I have the standard Ignitor. What if I just hooked the red Ignitor wire to another 12 volt switchable source? Is there anywhere in the engine compartments to do that or do I need to go under the dash?

 

GrandeStang73

Member

Apr 16, 2005

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VA

Oct 23, 2005

#7

• Oct 23, 2005

• #7

I had a regular Ignitor in my 73' 351C, i had somewhat of the same problem, but i just bought a set of high capacity points and condenser with an Accel super stock coil. It runs better than the Ignitor.

 

68 Coop

New Member

Aug 13, 2005

104

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Mesquite, NV

Oct 23, 2005

#8

• Oct 23, 2005

• #8

See if this helps.

http://va-mustang.com/articles.php?articleId=3