PI intake installed, problems?

mijo_latino

Active Member
Apr 16, 2004
179
1
29
Canton, Michigan
well, i finished the car. The only thing i haven't finished is that 2nd temp sensor. I didn't think much of it but i just connected the sensor and zipped tied it in place for the leak check. I figured it just reads the temp so should affect anything too much...
Started it up, and now it idles a bit higher around 8-900rpms. Then i tapped the throttle and the revs climbed quick to 2000 and took a longer time to drop then usual. I figured it just needed some time to work through the install. After i let it warm up i took it for a spin. took it up to the 3-3500 rmps and didn't sound to great. Thought i noticed like a raspy nosie that high. took it back and popped the hood. Nothing there. Maybe a vacuum leak?

Anyone do this swap and have problems? How did the car act afterwards?
I reallly don't want to take off the intake again and find that i did seal it right.
 
The only thing I can think off is you have a leak somewhere. Usually if the engine idles higher the idle will jump up some. I lucked out. I did not have any issues when I did my swap. Just look around the area to make sure everything was plugged back in the right spot. Run up the rpms while you look under the hood to hear any of the noises to pinpoit where they are coming from.
 
98laseredgt said:
has anyone done it without the adapter plates. and do you really need the 2nd temp sensor?
The sensor on the passenger side of the car is for your temp gage, the one on the right, gives the eec information as to when to turn on the electric fan.You can tapp the thermostat housing for the 2nd sensor if you don't have [or don't want to remove and tapp] the aluminum crossover.Do a search for info on tapping the intake for the 2nd sensor. There's lots of good info as well as pics. thanks to RysRed96GT :nice:
 
Good news and bad news. Good news is you stand a chance at fixing your problem, bad news is your going to have to take your intake back off. You gotta tap the the aluminum crossover for the second sensor. The reason your idle is a bit off is because the large amount of air your now getting. So til you get it tuned your going to have a bit of an off idle. I have not had my car tuned yet and it's been about 6 - 8 months since the swap (I think). You can fix the slow dropping idle by doing the copper cap mod in the IAC. I did this mod before the intake so I can't say how much of a differance it will make. Just remember the smaller the hole you drill in the cap the fast drop of the RPM's. I think the smallest hole you can use is 3/16. Good Luck and congrats on the swap!!
 
second temp sensor

Here's a pic of what I did with the 2nd sensor. I have a 99 intake, thus no aluminum crossover. No problems going on 4 1/2 years.
 

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98laseredgt said:
has anyone done it without the adapter plates. and do you really need the 2nd temp sensor?

The adapter plates make no difference in installing the intake. It just insures a better seal. My car ran rough the first couple days because I still did not have all my sensors. I was just trying to help.
 
Blev said:
Good news and bad news. Good news is you stand a chance at fixing your problem, bad news is your going to have to take your intake back off. You gotta tap the the aluminum crossover for the second sensor. The reason your idle is a bit off is because the large amount of air your now getting. So til you get it tuned your going to have a bit of an off idle. I have not had my car tuned yet and it's been about 6 - 8 months since the swap (I think). You can fix the slow dropping idle by doing the copper cap mod in the IAC. I did this mod before the intake so I can't say how much of a differance it will make. Just remember the smaller the hole you drill in the cap the fast drop of the RPM's. I think the smallest hole you can use is 3/16. Good Luck and congrats on the swap!!

This isn't all true....

I have done the intake swap twice on my car without the adapter plates...I had problems with the seal the first time and was getting codes after driving a bit...my idle was sticking and would take a while to drop....

I took the intake off and reapplied it for a second time...this time I let the car sit over night to ensure the RTV sealed properly and dried....since then I havn't had any problems with my car..been almost 5 months now...and all through the summer heat of Las Vegas....

You do NOT need a tune after the intake swap....my car runs just as it did before the swap..no idleing issues no driveability issues...it's the exact same...so if you are having issues then there is something else wrong with your car....

MIJO_LATINO

my suggestion to you is get that other sensor plugged in at the drain plug spot near the driverside header and double check to ensure you have all the hoses plugged in and vacuum lines in the right spots....How long have you driven the car with it not running right?? Long enough to throw codes??

hope you get it figured out...I know when I was working on mine it was frusterating as hell.....the last thing I wanted to do was take off my intake and do the swap again...but second time around is a breeze...did it in probably 1.5hrs. GL
 
i haven't driven the car much. Took it to work and back. All like 20 min. No codes yet. i gave it 2 days for the sealent to dry, but i am in michigan. The cold weather is starting to creep up thats main reason i don't wasnt to open it up again.
I'm pretty sure i got everything hooked up right. Labeled everything i unhooked, up like Q in the alphabet. Just that sensor.
Sounds like it may be a sealing leak, :bang:

Where could i get a t-fitting, local hardware or special order part?

Will it eventually throw a code? And that plug in the engine block, need to drain the antifreeze again eh? sadness.

No need for tune here, just the intake replaced, no heads.

Thanks for everyone's help,