PI Intake Swap Alternator Bracket fit problem

GulfCoastMustang

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2000
1,477
0
0
Winston-Salem, NC
Ok, short summary to get where I am now:

- Cracked intake on my 1998 GT after 110k hard miles.
- Swapped in PI intake last weekend. No leaks, runs great.

I can't figure out why the 1R3Z-10153-AA Alternator Bracket was recommended for this swap. My alternator does not have any horizontal mounting surfaces (vertical holes). Check out the pictures. One with the 10153 bracket, and one with the original 1998 NPI bracket. What did you other PI Intake Swap guys do?
 

Attachments

  • Alternator_Bracket-PI.webp
    Alternator_Bracket-PI.webp
    47.2 KB · Views: 1,763
  • Alternator_Bracket-NPI.webp
    Alternator_Bracket-NPI.webp
    37.8 KB · Views: 1,394
GulfCoastMustang said:
Ok, short summary to get where I am now:

- Cracked intake on my 1998 GT after 110k hard miles.
- Swapped in PI intake last weekend. No leaks, runs great.

I can't figure out why the 1R3Z-10153-AA Alternator Bracket was recommended for this swap. My alternator does not have any horizontal mounting surfaces (vertical holes). Check out the pictures. One with the 10153 bracket, and one with the original 1998 NPI bracket. What did you other PI Intake Swap guys do?


I would like to see this answered too ???? HHHMMMMM , any ideas guys ?? I am trying to talk a friend into doing this on his car .
 
GulfCoastMustang:

I have seen pictures posted showing the original bracket "notched" to clear the electrical connections on the back of the alternator. I also read conflicting posts about using the PI bracket and ignoring the 'third hole' vs. bolt failure by not using the 'third hole'.

Personally, I would make a template and notch the original bracket (Dremel or have a shop notch it), give it a shot of paint, and install it.

**edit: What about using spacers to extend the height of the original bracket? You would have to drill a hole to get the bolt to line up with the new intake but some aluminum spacers might do the trick. **end edit.
 
If this helps- I just modified my old bracket and painted it black when I did my headswap. I'm not sure what the bracket was supposed to do with the kit. I believe I drilled a 3rd hole and trimmed it to size with a cutoff wheel and grinder. It came out great.
 
I actually found out the correct part number for the bracket to use an NPI alternator on a PI intake. It is F8AZ-10153-EA (available from Randy Stinchcomb). F8AZ-10153-EA is also supposed to work. Here is a picture of that one...
 

Attachments

  • 10.webp
    10.webp
    33.2 KB · Views: 983
Yeah well there have been reports of the two lower bolts snapping after a period of time when an upper bracket isn't used. It's not a strength issue, it is probably related to vibration and fatigue strength in those bolts. Over time, they will crack and break and leave you stranded, or worse, with a busted alternator, etc.
The bracket is like ten bucks, it's worth the insurance.
 
GulfCoastMustang said:
- Swapped in PI intake last weekend. No leaks, runs great.


Swapped my intake last weekend. Notched the bracket with a dremel and a tungsten bit.

Question- How the hell did you get the intake to mate up and seal. I've installed it twice so far, and each time it leaked. I applied silicone where the company who sold it to me said, and it leaked. Second time, used PI gaskets, and it pi$$ed water, so I put the NPI gaskets back in. RTV'd the crap out of it from mounting bolt to mounting bolt, and it's still leaking air.

Thanks in advance.
 
No Control said:
Swapped my intake last weekend. Notched the bracket with a dremel and a tungsten bit.

Question- How the hell did you get the intake to mate up and seal. I've installed it twice so far, and each time it leaked. I applied silicone where the company who sold it to me said, and it leaked. Second time, used PI gaskets, and it pi$$ed water, so I put the NPI gaskets back in. RTV'd the crap out of it from mounting bolt to mounting bolt, and it's still leaking air.

Thanks in advance.
Adapter plates :nice:
 
Well I haven't been able to make it seal, either. I thought I didn't have any leaks but there is a slight hesitation under throttle that I have a feeling is caused by an intake leak. I'm not shelling out the ridiculous $200 for the Livernois adapter plates. I'll make it work. I've got a set of PI gaskets that I might try to make work.
 
NPI gaskets and silicone is the only way to make it work . its been done several times , PI gaskets will leak , adaptor plates are about 300 by themselves from livernois and you wont be able to clear the stock hood and will have to find your own longer bolts to make this combo work without buying the whole 650 dollar kit from livernois , if you want a leak free seal but dont like the idea of silicone with the NPI gaskets you will have to get the adaptor plates , until someone comes up with a better idea or customs gaskets that might work better .
 
GulfCoastMustang said:
Well I haven't been able to make it seal, either. I thought I didn't have any leaks but there is a slight hesitation under throttle that I have a feeling is caused by an intake leak. I'm not shelling out the ridiculous $200 for the Livernois adapter plates. I'll make it work. I've got a set of PI gaskets that I might try to make work.
Don't get the PI gaskets. The rear water jackets are completely different, and WILL leak as soon as you pour water in. Too much so that silicone won't fix that.
 
I've already got the PI gaskets (for some reason, they came with the intake). Maybe I can splice the rear water jacket from the PI gasket onto the air runner gaskets from the NPI piece.
Nah, I think I'll just put a prodigious amount of RTV and see what happens. There's a heck of a lot of PI-Intake-Swap cars out there so I'm sure someone has gotten it to seal. It doesn't miss by much. I might get rid of the alignment posts that line up the gasket with the head. If I could shift the gasket inwards a bit, I think it will seal better.
 
GulfCoastMustang said:
Well I haven't been able to make it seal, either. I thought I didn't have any leaks but there is a slight hesitation under throttle that I have a feeling is caused by an intake leak. I'm not shelling out the ridiculous $200 for the Livernois adapter plates. I'll make it work. I've got a set of PI gaskets that I might try to make work.
200 bucks? If you can get them for 200 GET THEM. They are 300 from Livernois motorsports and as far as I know, they are the ONLY people who make them.
 
GulfCoastMustang said:
$300? Ugh, that is highway robbery.
Called the guys this morning. He said that his adapter plates absolutely will not work with a stock intake. He didn't give the reason why other than the intake in the $650 kit is "machined".

I'm not sure how thick his plates are, but I went down to the metal shop today and picked up some 4" by 1/4" and will start my own machining (dremel) work soon. I'll keep you guys posted...

...Wish me luck!!!
 
No Control said:
Called the guys this morning. He said that his adapter plates absolutely will not work with a stock intake. He didn't give the reason why other than the intake in the $650 kit is "machined".

I'm not sure how thick his plates are, but I went down to the metal shop today and picked up some 4" by 1/4" and will start my own machining (dremel) work soon. I'll keep you guys posted...

...Wish me luck!!!
They WILL fit with the stock PI intake. The only thing they WON'T fit is under the stock hood. The plates are 1/2" thick. You also need longer bolts all the way around and make sure they are at least a 9.8 grade because that's what the stockers are. The thing that is "machined" is the PI intake. I myself don't know how close of a fit it is with the stock hood, but I imagine it's enough to make them machine it down. Let me know if you need anymore help/info.

Here is a pick of the plates.
406598_22_full.jpg