[pics] My new floorpan

I'm restoring a 1970 Mach 1, thought I'd share photos of the progress. Hop e you like the pics:
new rear torque box patch installed:
View attachment 510809
Rear floor pan extension welded in:
View attachment 510811
New floor support welded in:
View attachment 510813
View attachment 510815
New torque box installed:
View attachment 510817
View attachment 510819
New toe board:
View attachment 510821
Full floor pan:
View attachment 510822

The car:
View attachment 510823

Next comes the driver's side :banana: . Should be easier as we bought the car after someone already cut up the passenger side. Also, the driver's side is a little less rusty.

I figure I have between 30-40 hours into the passenger side.
 
I remember that... too much damn work to do in the Florida heat, so after doing the front half of the driver's side, we finally sub'd out the rest to a resto shop. Looks like you're doing solid work though... keep it up and keep us posted.

:nice:
 
cardude said:
what were the main tools that you needed besides a welder that helped you do the job??

Well, we're getting ready to move, so I'm holding off on buying an air compressor, but one of those is nice - at least a 60 gallon tank so it's not running all the time while you're grinding/drilling. i work off and on at a "real" body shop and things go much faster when I do this type of stuff there. :D Also, you can keep your panels cool while you're welding with an air blower - that's not much of a concern when working on the floor, though. Just be sure to jump around once in a while with your welding and you'll be OK.

Here's what I used:
-Welder (Hobart handler 180, .030 steel wire, don't use flux core, get the gas)
-angle grinder (cutting wheels for removal of old panels and trimming new ones, grinding discs for weld prep and dressing)
-Cordless drill (cutting old spot welds, drilling holes in new panels for plug welds)
-Spot weld cutter (Eastwood has 'em but I used one from Wurth)
-drill bits
-hammers of various sizes/types
-vice grips (hold new panels in place before welding)
-various pliers
-tape measure
-Sharpie pen for marking stuff
-metal shears
-screwdrivers/chisels

Hmmm, I think that's about it. I got a pretty bare-bones operation here at the moment, so I know it can be done with simple tools. It's mostly just patience and a little know how. I don't have any shaping dollys but I should have as they are critical in getting stuff to look "finished."
 
DarkBuddha said:
BTW, what's the color? Grabber Orange? Some sort of yellow? Bright Gold Metalic? Any of those colors might have the same sort of look as in the pics... just curious really... :shrug:

Original bright gold metallic (that's what you see on the floor) but someone painted it Grabber Orange. I think we might go with black when the day comes to paint it.
 
I agree, dont use flux core...I did and it is such a pain. I plan on converting my welder over to gas soon...its all set up for it, it jsut needs a regulator and tank.

Also the the hammer played a big role in my floor pan replacement...those aftermarket pans..at least the ones i used, just didnt fit like the should.
 
67coupe351w said:
Also the the hammer played a big role in my floor pan replacement...those aftermarket pans..at least the ones i used, just didnt fit like the should.

:stupid:

Fit, measure, mark, trim, repeat.

They stamp those things out and leave it to you to make them fit. Don't be afraid to do some pounding.
 
lauras70mach1 said:
:stupid:

Fit, measure, mark, trim, repeat.

They stamp those things out and leave it to you to make them fit. Don't be afraid to do some pounding.

....OK how am I stupid when I agreed with your own post.

I said the same thing, the hammer plays a big role because they don't fit like the originals even after you trim them. Oh I know, I must have been advocating just setting the raw pan in the car and pounding on it until it fit. I wish there was a big middle finger Icon :rolleyes:

Have a nice day.
 
67coupe351w said:
....OK how am I stupid when I agreed with your own post.

I said the same thing, the hammer plays a big role because they don't fit like the originals even after you trim them. Oh I know, I must have been advocating just setting the raw pan in the car and pounding on it until it fit. I wish there was a big middle finger Icon :rolleyes:

Have a nice day.

Sorry, I wasn't calling you stupid - there is no "I agree" smiley, so I chose the next best thing. No offense intended. :shrug:
 
mikec35 said:
When you are replacing just a single floor pan, do you cut out the rusted pan and lay the new one down and weld from the top? Thx...

The best way is to butt weld it - get it so it lays in there and the edges of the old pan and new pan pretty much line up perfect and weld them wherever, top or bottom. I welded mine on top (inside the car) but I'm actually going to run another series of welds under the car and grind the whole works down so there is as little filler as possible.