Progress Thread Plasma 1993 vert

1

1775usmarine

Member

Aug 18, 2025

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Indiana

Aug 18, 2025

#1

• Aug 18, 2025

• #1

So my fox is named Plasma as I was using some of the funds I got donating plasma to buy parts. Once my house sells will use those funds again for restoration costs. I'm looking at a 5 to 7yr time frame from today to be completed.

I have already acquired an 8.8 rear, AOD trans, a good 302 block for $50, 70mm throttle body, Flotek 180 heads, Comp Cam 212/218 cam, new front seats, black carpet, and other various odds and ends.

 

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

5 Year Member

Aug 25, 2016

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polk county florida

Aug 19, 2025

#2

• Aug 19, 2025

• #2

Don't forget the progress pics.

 

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1775usmarine

Member

Aug 18, 2025

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Indiana

Aug 19, 2025

#3

• Aug 19, 2025

• #3

 

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1

1775usmarine

Member

Aug 18, 2025

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Indiana

Aug 24, 2025

#4

• Aug 24, 2025

• #4

Having her flatbeded to my new home tomorrow. Looking forward to starting more cutting and prepping on the floor pans once settled. Will need to clean up garage and move more things before winter. Don't want to keep her tarped up outside in snow if at all possible.

 

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1

1775usmarine

Member

Aug 18, 2025

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Indiana

Aug 25, 2025

#5

• Aug 25, 2025

• #5

For those who have done complete floor and trunk pan replacement. I've read alot about keeping the suspension loaded to prevent twisting of the frame while doing this job, but the driveway she's parked on has a slight slope toward the street and I have her front forward so I could push and pull and make it easier for engine removal. Will this make a big difference?

I plan on doing the sub frame connectors with both floors cut out unless someone more experienced says otherwise.

 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

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Oct 28, 2001

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Claremore, OK

Aug 25, 2025

#6

• Aug 25, 2025

• #6

So this is just me but i would unload the suspension being it is a unibody and the suspension being loaded will move the remaining sheet metal in ways it would normally not if all the metal was there.

Do not weld the subframe connectors in until all unibody repairs have been made. You then need to fully load the suspension i.e. the car at full weight and at that point weld the subframe connectors into the car.

 

1

1775usmarine

Member

Aug 18, 2025

7

9

13

Indiana

Aug 25, 2025

#7

• Aug 25, 2025

• #7

That does make sense to me since I bought the stiffler connectors that have the seat support bracket. If the floor is installed straight then it should in theory all line up underneath with the subframe.

 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

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Claremore, OK

Aug 25, 2025

#8

• Aug 25, 2025

• #8

You absolutely want the full weight of the car supported by the wheels when welding the subframes in. You can use jack stands on the rear axle. For the front you can use ramps or jack stands on the hats of the rotors. To use the jack stands remove the front wheels (use lug nuts to secure the rotors if you have SN95 style brakes) and place the jack stands under the rotor hat. I would use a floor jack under the k-member as a safety.

This is what I have done so use at your own risk. A drive on lift is the absolute best.