Mcmahst
5 Year Member
Maybe a dumb question, but have you manually tested the coil, with a 12v wire from the battery to the + side, and a wire attached to the - side, grounding and ungrounding it to see if it produces a spark?
The other idea I had. Check the actual wires going to the NSS to ensure one wasn’t damaged and maybe grounding out. That would preclude 12v to the coil under Start conditions.
But, this problem may have nothing to do with the trans. It just maybe coincidental.
The other idea I had. Check the actual wires going to the NSS to ensure one wasn’t damaged and maybe grounding out. That would preclude 12v to the coil under Start conditions.
But, this problem may have nothing to do with the trans. It just maybe coincidental.
The “NSS” on the top of the T5 has zero to do with the start circuit. It’s only there for idle strategy with the ECU.
stangnet.com
stangnet.com
Electrical - Need help with cruise control and NSS.
I purchased an 89 GT. Was and AOD car and was swapped to a T5. My question is. The NSS wasn't hooked up. There seems to be 2 plugs on the sensor attached to clutch pedal. What 2 wires plug in to that. I think one goes to Trans mission harness not sure the other. Next question is on cruise...
Drivetrain - 91-93 Four Cylinder Five Speed Cars - No Neutral Gear Switch (NGS) Wiring
Went through the T5 and have it back in the car and I decided to finally look into why the NGS has no place to plug in on the car. After some digging around what I am understanding is the four cylinder T5 cars starting in 91 no longer have the NGS. My car was originally a four cylinder that I...
When I referred to the NSS I was talking about the 'neutral safety switch' which is actually not accurate, the 'clutch safety switch ' would be more accurate, the NSS on top of the trans is a neutral sensing switch that just talks to the computer for idle 'strategy ', neither one has nothing to do with the ignition.If it's cranking over with the key, clutch pushed down, then it stops cranking when you release the clutch, with key still in crank position, then the NSS is working. I believe the NSS has nothing to do with weather or not the coil is getting power.
this is taken from the 'cranks but no start checklist' credit Jrichker.
C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch.
Do this test, post results..
Still nothing. I will be hitting it hard this weekend. Hard for me to find time with 3 teenagers all in sports and career to find time. Any ideas on what I should look at this weekend? I cut a hole a while ago for easy access to the feul pump. I'm going to look at that. To make sure everything is good. Clean all grounds. Unhook the nitrous off the fuel rail and make sure I'm getting fuel.
How are you supposed to get the test light off, when there is no ground. There has always been 12v to both the positive and negative. I can post the reply of no light came on at all. Yet. If I put the test light and ground the clamp and jump it off the solenoid. The light shuts off completely. I believe I wrote that above somewhere. That I thought it was supposed to pulse.When I referred to the NSS I was talking about the 'neutral safety switch' which is actually not accurate, the 'clutch safety switch ' would be more accurate, the NSS on top of the trans is a neutral sensing switch that just talks to the computer for idle 'strategy ', neither one has nothing to do with the ignition.
this is taken from the 'cranks but no start checklist' credit Jrichker.
C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch.
Do this test, post results..
Actually I take that back. I was grounded to the selonoid.
How are you supposed to get the test light off, when there is no ground. There has always been 12v to both the positive and negative. I can post the reply of no light came on at all. Yet. If I put the test light and ground the clamp and jump it off the solenoid. The light shuts off completely. I believe I wrote that above somewhere. That I thought it was supposed to pulse. Actually I take that back. I grounded to the selonoid. The light stays on. On the negative side the light also stays on.
Update... it has started. The brand new distributor I bought from LMR came with a bad tfi module. I called them to send me another one overnight for the weeks I wasted trying to figure out what was wrong. They refused. Was not happy with them. I live right near the jegs main warehouse. I went and picked one up there. Still have a little work to do. It wasn't idling correct and running super rich. I think something is wrong with the spout connector getting the timing. The new mega squirt has seemed to fix it at the moment for idle. Still have a lot of tuning to do. I was trying to take out my divers side O2 sensor to install the wideband sensor and it's completely stripped. So today i have to tap it. Hopefully that works. I don't want to go down that road. Thanks for the help.