plugs and gaps for SC v6

[mustangmat99]

i have an 00 v6 procharged, its acting up so im changing the plugs, do i go with the ones on there, which were NGK iridium plugs, do i go with those again or something better? platinums, double platinums? and also whats the gap supposed to be? my car shakes hard when i go to boost, its fine when i dont punch it but when i punch it, it shakes, but only when it goes to boost, so im changing everything i can that people are telling me so any help, let me know

 

[atlblue2000]

I'm running good ol' Autolite 103 copper cores gapped @ .036. They are cheap and they get the job done every bit as good as the platinums or the over-priced iridiums.

 

[Stratus183]

It sounds like detonation!! Hows your fuel pressure? You should be running plugs that are 2 heat ranges colder than stock with a .030-.035 gap.

I'm running NGK V-Power TR-5's which is equal to Motorcraft AWSF-22C's

 

[mustangmat99]

i donno what it is, its its detination then why is it only when i go to boost? the plugs didnt seem to fix the problem, everything is fine when im drivign, but when i go to gas it hard and my boost gauge goes from the vac into the boost, it starts shaking big time, i can only assume its somethign supercharger related, there is a bearing that sounds like its going out in the supercharger i dont know if that has anyhting to do with it, but its not the fuel filter and its not the plugs, everything im doing still seems to not work, i hear dirty fuel injector, but i mean, wouldnt it foul up with any driving? why is the only problem i having when it goes to boost up? someone help, this is really beginning to piss me off : P

 

[mustangmat99]

i checked the ngk iridium ones, and they looked kinda eh, so i went and bought some bosch platinum's for it, i bought the car like a month ago and it ran FINE and great, i could boost and haul a$$, but wed. night i was driving it shook hard i shifted down it kept shaking and it died, it runs now but when i go to boost the whole car shakes horribly and it feels like its starting to die when i do, i havent a clue whats going on

 

[94 3.8l stang]

I know this sounds pretty basic, but try reseting your computer. Thats all i can think of. . I also use autolites, double platinums, they work great, the reason for that is they save you money and time in the long run. Platinum plugs can last as long as 75000 miles, where as copper autolites are almost required to be changed every 15000 miles. when you add up the price and time to change them, platinums are a better deal. Bosch plugs are great, thats what i'm running in my four banger, and they are the best plugs i've ever used, but they may run a little hot in a supercharged car...

 

[mustangmat99]

the guy at autozone..yea i know, old guy at autozone, he said the ngk ones were running hot and i assume these bosch ones are cooler, and we did reset the puter already, and nothing...still it stalls big time when i go to boost, i need that supercharger bearing replaced, even if that isnt the problem, i still need it replaced...but i havent a clue whats going on, we ran in on the puter, and it said the front left 02 sensor was bad and the pcv vavle, replaced both, nothing, replaced the fuel filter, which was REALLY dirty, still nothing, changed the plugs...nothing, i dont know why it studders when it goes to wanna boost

 

[Stratus183]

Its gopt to be detonation! You usually only encounter it when your engine sees boost. You shoud get a good chip, like a superchip from Velocity mustang performance, and get a good dyno tune.

 

[SpectorV]

did you have the car dyno tuned or just stick in the pos chip that came with it? if you didnt have it tuned it may be the problem cuz the one they send you blows. it could be part of the problem causing that you are having.

 

[EVal95]

its the tune, plain and simple. I think it was a mail order chip, those don't work for crap..only to get your car to get TUNED! Thats why you get those mail order chips...just enough to drive the car to a tuner to fix up all the mess ups.

It kinda sounds like detonation to me as well. You should get your a/f read when you pull it on a dyno, this will tell you a WHOLE LOT about how the car is running. If you hear cracklings, then you got other issues too..called PINGING.

again, all comes back to tuning the car.

if you bought the car WITH the procharger, you should have researched a bit more before is my opinion

 

[mustangmat99]

i would prefer not to be second guessed on my purchase, let me get the whole story out..one more time...it has been dyno'ed tuned, it has an autologic chip in it, he said he went with diablo but it was crap and he got an autologic one, i dont think i hear cracklings...but yea its already been dynoed tuned , when i went and got it, it ran great, i had it bout 3 weeks and it ran strong and good no problems, then one night driving home in alot of rain, which might have somethign to do with it? i migth have went through a deep puddle i donno, the air filter is way down in the fender, but i donno, it craped out, now it drives fine..accept when i go to get to the boost and it stalls bad, im having it put in the shop tomorrow, the guy there knows quite a bit on ford engines as well as blowers, so we'll see

 

[mustangmat99]

also, they say its running really rich

 

[atlblue2000]

Have you seen the graphs from his dyno tune? How was the a/f ratio? You need to take it yourself and if anything get a baseline with a/f and see for yourself what the problem is. Don't rely on the previous owners statements to fix a current problem which he shouldn't know anything about considering the problems didn't start until three weeks after you took possession of the vehicle. Its not so much the chip in it as who programmed the chip. Did he tell you where he had the dyno tune? If it was just mail order, the only mail order chip I have seen work remotely right are SCT chips.

 

[mustangmat99]

yes, i have the graphs ill have to look at um, and he had it tuned in florida, at a place called panhandle performance? i dont remember the name, but in the packet of stuff he gave me i have the address and name and everything for it, it wasnt done by him

 

[Stratus183]

Maybe your MAF got messed up from the water? You may want to check the connection. Also have your mechanic do a compression test.

 

[mustangmat99]

yea i looked at the maf, its connected pretty good, im having it droped off tomorrow morning and let the guy do everything he can to find out whats wrong, im tired of it sitting there and us just guessing on whats the problem, so keep the ideas coming ill keep them all in mind, so far i have changed out everything i have heard and im going to burn all the gas out thats in there and try other gas, some say it might be bad gas, so im going to find out, but im having it dropped off tomorrow

 

[mustangmat99]

im going with every angle on this...so today i went and put new "better" gas in it, and get this..the check engine line turned off after i got new gas? thats a first in my book, im sure it wasnt because i got better gas, but maybe it stoped throwing the sensors off when it was hitting the sensors? i donno, none the less the cut engine light is off ya know, i think i might have gotten reg. gas last time on accident, with blowers u need the higher 93 octane i might have goofed and got the reg. unleaded 87 i think it is? maybe 89, i never look at the numbers, anyways, the light went off , why i donno

 

[mustangmat99]

FREEDOM! apparently it was just bad gas, i put in better gas yesterday and when i got in i noticed the gas made the check engine light go off, so good start, and today i rode around a lil bit to burn off all the crap gas in there, well i just drove it..and i got boost! i yelled like a lil ****** when i realized i was boosting, im excited and relieved, im still going to have it checked out again, but i think it might have been just bad gas, or ya know, i might have put in the reg. unleaded instead of the supreme like im supposed to, either way, i think its ok now, thanx for all the help guys!

 

[Stratus183]

Thats good to hear