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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

POLISHING WHEELS.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 95Vert
  • Start date Start date Feb 23, 2006

95Vert

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Aug 19, 2004
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Feb 23, 2006
#1
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #1
I know some of you read my other thread but I wanted to start this one dedicated specifically to polishing my wheels. I'll post a pick, but what grit paper should I start with and then what? Keep in mind that I have NEVER polished anything in my life before.
View attachment 485978
 

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.
Founding Member
Jul 27, 2001
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Canton, MI
Feb 23, 2006
#2
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #2
220 wouldn't hurt. Maybe 320 on a machine. It's easier to go back down if you need to than to simple move up. Starting out too low will result in lots of scratches you don't need.
 

Blackened302

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Jul 21, 2005
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Feb 23, 2006
#3
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #3
mansonozz said:
220 wouldn't hurt. Maybe 320 on a machine. It's easier to go back down if you need to than to simple move up. Starting out too low will result in lots of scratches you don't need.
Click to expand...
i agree--starting too low will result in scratches (hence why lino had to re-putty my entire car again--i started too low a grit).
 

95Vert

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#4
  • Feb 23, 2006
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Ok so I just sand it with 220 until what? Until I remove all the scratches. Then what's the use of going to a greater grit paper? Fining out the smaller scratches?
 

Ozz

I think I have a problem here.
Founding Member
Jul 27, 2001
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Canton, MI
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#5
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #5
Till it stops cutting into the metal, which will be when it's smooth. Or *at least* until you get the big scratches out. Then move to 320, 400, however high you want to go.

As smooth as they are (no casting to remove = smoother surface to start out with), you shouldn't have to sand much. You could try to just get the large scratches out, then begin to buff.

I redid wheels for a friend with (clearcoated stock polished rims from a Trans Am) black emery compound, tripoli compound, then white rouge compound. They were really tarnished and oxidized.
 

95riosnake

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Feb 23, 2006
#6
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #6
The idea with each successive step of finer paper is to remove the scratches from the previous step. The easiest way is to sand in a perpendicular direction to the previous step. I personally sand stuff as follows:

If it's a rough surface and I need to remove alot of texture, I start with 220, otherwise I start with 320. Then move successively to 400, 600, and 800 grit. After the sanding is done, you need to hit it with tripoli compound, then finally with white rouge compound. Keep buffing with the white rouge until it is mirror-looking enough for your taste. You will need to get some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish and hand-polish them with a rag from time to time to maintain the shine in the future.

Edit: I need to give you fair warning....it is NOT a fast process. Plan for it to take longer than you expect. The results will only be as good as the time and care you put into the job.
 

95Vert

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#7
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #7
Since I'll be using 1bad's(Charlie's) polish, I think I have that covered. So then, the sanding alone won't give me shine. It'll just give a smoother look. Then I just add the polish and buff it out, right?
 

95riosnake

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#8
  • Feb 23, 2006
  • #8
95Vert said:
Since I'll be using 1bad's(Charlie's) polish, I think I have that covered. So then, the sanding alone won't give me shine. It'll just give a smoother look. Then I just add the polish and buff it out, right?
Click to expand...

The sanding smoothes out the surface to get it ready for the polish, so yes you are correct. The polish is what makes it shine.
 
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