83GT Stocker build

[StockerStang]

New here but not to mustangs or drag racing. After blowing up 3 engines in 4 years, (8000rpm needs a lot of maintenance) getting posted, buying a new house and having my first kid in '97, the mustang was parked. Drug it all over the country in my 36 years in the army, only thing left from before my marriage! lol!
Anyway, decided the kids are gone, I'm resurrecting it. (been drag racing various cars/trucks in sportsman over the years)
Started working on it and half way through decided I'm building it into a Stocker. 80/86 mustangs are uncompetitive in NHRA so I picked up a 79 and am building a U/SA 302 2bbl.

I have an off road youtube channel so I started posting stuff about drag racing on it, doesn't really fit but I'm not starting a second channel.

Here we go.....












This is my white 83/79 but I also have an 86 lx with a 3.8 and 89,000km's on it. I'll start another thread for it.

 

[StockerStang]

Pulled the 79 in to swap the nose, to make my 83 a 79. More to follow......

 

[StockerStang]

The latest..

 

[General karthief]

Those look like copper fuel lines, tell me it ain't so..........

 

[StockerStang]

Well I put copper line on in 1986 and haven't had an issue..... Actually, the line I ran to the carb will be a steel line when I put the new engine in with the 2bbl intake. This was to get it going to prove the carb is good. When I put the cam in and fire it for the first time, I want it to hit right off with no cranking and stay at 2000 for 30-45 minutes for break in. I have electric pump to prime the carb, ensure the distributor is set correctly, etc. This was part of that.
That said, look under the hood of a factory 2x4 hemi...they came with copper line and brass fittings from the factory. Brake lines, obviously not, but fuel? Not a problem actually.

 

[General karthief]

Well I'm old skol, copper fuel lines were always a no-no but hey, that was 'the old days

 

[AeroCoupe]

With today's fuels copper is about the best thing you can run with regards to metal lines. Braided lines need to be teflon lined or you will get pinholes in a couple years.

 

[limp]

With today's fuels copper is about the best thing you can run with regards to metal lines. Braided lines need to be teflon lined or you will get pinholes in a couple years.

Would the new nickel/copper line work for fuel?

 

[AeroCoupe]

Yes as far as compatibility with ethanol.

 

[Noobz347]

I think that you are thinking of [brass] lines.

 

[General karthief]

I think that you are thinking

There, that other sentence was too long

 

[AeroCoupe]

Brass was the metal used on the older cars (prior to 1930ish) and they changed to tin coated steel lines. They started using plastic fuel lines in the 80's mixed with the steel lines and now predominantly what is used is plastic and aluminum or at least that is what I see on my 2020 F150. The reason copper was not and should not be used is it is very easy to work harden and can crack which is no bueno. The NiCopp lines are not prone to work hardening so they are a good alternative to steel or aluminum fuel lines. What you need to concern yourself with when using the metal lines is the fittings and how they are installed either by flaring the metal line or using AN fittings which are swagged with a ferrule.

 

[StockerStang]

Well now you got me thinking...... I have 1/2" from the tank to the engine compartment, then a regulator and 3/8's from regulator to carb. I noticed the original 5/16 factory line is still there and I'm not running 2 4bbls or a 460 anymore, maybe I should switch...hmmm, I'll add that to the list but it will be way down there, lol.

 

[StockerStang]

I'm a mechanic by trade, not a painter!! LOL! At least it's the same colour all over now.

 

[StockerStang]

Got some progress done...
1) Stock "performance" spring compared to a pacalloy beehive spring.
2) Stock locks compared to 7* comp cams locks.
3) 192# on the seat and 350# over the nose.
4) Tapping guide to installs new bronze guides
5) Ready to install bronze guide
6) Reaming the guide to correct size
7) One done and next hole tapped

 

[StockerStang]

Ok, update, got it together and went to the track for the first time since 1997 (the car, not me) Had a .021 light first hit! Went downhill after that, LOL!
Stupid little bugs;
Shifter messed up, not shifting right
Water pump motor burned out
Fan blowing fuses
Motor won't rev over 5000 because timing light was messed up and I had 50+ degrees starting out, then 38, then about 35 or so by ear since the light seemed off.
Found out the timing pointer on the engine is wrong or the gun is messed up, but tdc is in the middle of the round timing light hole instead of 0 on the dampner.

So, pulled the b&m shifter, got a stock shifter and modified it for reverse valve body pattern. Got a reverse valve body from Broader performance in Texas (awesome company to deal with!!!) got that installed then pulled the tranny as I got a 4000rpm stocker converter, so I installed that.
When I had the rear end apart (9") found the 4.86 gears are worn out...bad... so I picked up a 5:14 centre section with a 35 spline full spool. Still waiting for my 28 spline spool to arrive so I can install that too.

Funny/not funny...I have a pan fill, 26 spline c4, 164 tooth flexplate...the 8" converter fits a case fill 26 spline 157 tooth flexplate! I grabbed my spare case fill c4 from out back and...it's a 164 tooth bellhousing too! Bought a pan fill/26 spline/157 tooth transmission only to find it's a case fill with a plug and has a pan fill oil pan on it.

All that to say, holy crap ford, what were you thinking????
24 or 26 spline
case fill or pan fill
140/157/164 tooth flywheels and matching bell housing
2x2x3=12 different possibilities with a c4!!

Oh yeah, installed the adjustable uppers too.

More to follow...

 

[StockerStang]

This is a buddies (Mark Yacavone) 79 with the 2.3 in it. Yes, stock lift cam and original intake/throttle body/etc too!
Eventually this will be my paint job too.

 

[StockerStang]

3 sets of headers, after fighting for a bit I realized two sets were for manuals only..grrr.. I'll be building a set of tri y headers this winter.