83GT Stocker build

New here but not to mustangs or drag racing. After blowing up 3 engines in 4 years, (8000rpm needs a lot of maintenance) getting posted, buying a new house and having my first kid in '97, the mustang was parked. Drug it all over the country in my 36 years in the army, only thing left from before my marriage! lol!
Anyway, decided the kids are gone, I'm resurrecting it. (been drag racing various cars/trucks in sportsman over the years)
Started working on it and half way through decided I'm building it into a Stocker. 80/86 mustangs are uncompetitive in NHRA so I picked up a 79 and am building a U/SA 302 2bbl.

I have an off road youtube channel so I started posting stuff about drag racing on it, doesn't really fit but I'm not starting a second channel.

Here we go.....

View: https://youtu.be/rNrw9bYTCAM



View: https://youtu.be/DYVRM8u0fqk



View: https://youtu.be/bIZ65Vv9Bag



View: https://youtu.be/s2taruXXG9I


This is my white 83/79 but I also have an 86 lx with a 3.8 and 89,000km's on it. I'll start another thread for it.
 
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Pulled the 79 in to swap the nose, to make my 83 a 79. More to follow......
 

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Well I put copper line on in 1986 and haven't had an issue..... Actually, the line I ran to the carb will be a steel line when I put the new engine in with the 2bbl intake. This was to get it going to prove the carb is good. When I put the cam in and fire it for the first time, I want it to hit right off with no cranking and stay at 2000 for 30-45 minutes for break in. I have electric pump to prime the carb, ensure the distributor is set correctly, etc. This was part of that.
That said, look under the hood of a factory 2x4 hemi...they came with copper line and brass fittings from the factory. Brake lines, obviously not, but fuel? Not a problem actually.
 
With today's fuels copper is about the best thing you can run with regards to metal lines. Braided lines need to be teflon lined or you will get pinholes in a couple years.
 
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Brass was the metal used on the older cars (prior to 1930ish) and they changed to tin coated steel lines. They started using plastic fuel lines in the 80's mixed with the steel lines and now predominantly what is used is plastic and aluminum or at least that is what I see on my 2020 F150. The reason copper was not and should not be used is it is very easy to work harden and can crack which is no bueno. The NiCopp lines are not prone to work hardening so they are a good alternative to steel or aluminum fuel lines. What you need to concern yourself with when using the metal lines is the fittings and how they are installed either by flaring the metal line or using AN fittings which are swagged with a ferrule.
 
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Well now you got me thinking...... I have 1/2" from the tank to the engine compartment, then a regulator and 3/8's from regulator to carb. I noticed the original 5/16 factory line is still there and I'm not running 2 4bbls or a 460 anymore, maybe I should switch...hmmm, I'll add that to the list but it will be way down there, lol.