POR-15 failure...

I forgot about the sweat thing. Maybe thats what happened with the interior. :shrug:


I will be stripping it today, as well as trying to figure out what I am going to do with the floor pan. I might just cut out the affected portion and put in a patch piece of metal.

all I know is that I used all the steps that they recommended, and now I have what looks like black soggy newspapers.

maybe it was a faulty lot, or maybe it was my fault. Either way I will be researching other brands. I really do not want to go through that process again with the same results.


The odd thing is that I painted my rear end with what was left of the can. I was running out of marine clean and the metal ready. So I skimped with it. I had diluted it to maybe 25%. I didnt get all the grease off because it fisheyed the por.

But it looks like I just put it on. No blistering or peeling. wierd stuff.
 
ozstang65 said:
Get ready to be dissapointed because:



will not get it off. Just redo the areas that have failed.

Is it under the car or inside? (or both??)



I used some kwik strip on it today. It peeled it off faster than a prom dress.

it took about 30 seconds, but it blistered up like paint and fell off. pretty sure that POR-15 will come right off if I took it to get chemically dipped.




What I want to know, is why the por-15 I used is weaker than everybody elses? I used tape to hold down my sound deadener while I put the carpet over it. When I peeled out the sound deadener the por 15 came off with the tape.

also, I can chip and peel off any of it, and if I use a wire brush it will come off as well. It seems like everybody else has bullet proof stuff.
 
I stripped the floor boards today. What a PITA. I hate chemical strippers, and I have a tendency to get stuff on my skin. Burning sensations are good right?

The rust is not as bad as I had feared. The passenger side rear floorpan will need replaced. It feels weak and flexes. But the rust was not very severe. All the other area's that had the fluid filled bubbles did not have any rust. It looks like it never had air get to it. just water.

It took maybe 5 hours to get 90% of it to bare metal. The POR-15 did not put up as big of a fight as I had feared.

I think the factory paint was harder to get off.
 
I used the RustBullet on mine... I replaced the two front floors and coated the entire interior and exterior with it. The floors were not rusted, but it is like the POR, and it ROCK HARD once it is dried. I have tried to sand it in a few places... not much got done, but you can get through it.

You have to be careful with the sweat... rustbullet is the same. One drop, throw it away.

I have not driven the car as it is still in the building stages but since then, I sure have sweated alot in the interior... no problems.

I will update as the time goes on, as its close to being ready.

Lastly, application was real easy and it is UV stable.

Mark
 
I contacted Por-15 about it. Thier tech help consisted of them telling me I did it wrong, then Ignoring any other emails that I sent.

I doubt thier satisfaction garuntee would work past 3 years.

I might buy a pint, then paint a piece of flast stock and leave it out all winter and see how it holds up.
 
hungrymonkey said:
I used some kwik strip on it today. It peeled it off faster than a prom dress.

it took about 30 seconds, but it blistered up like paint and fell off. pretty sure that POR-15 will come right off if I took it to get chemically dipped....


Well, that'll be good if it works, saves a lot of work. I'm sure I read somewhere that once it dries the only way to remove it is mechanically. No solvent/stripper should be able to attack it. :shrug:
 
We used an epoxy primer in the Mach after all the repairs-I used Rust Mort prior to spraying the primer. This was just arlier this year, so its too soon to report anything. However, we did use some of Eastwood's rust encapsulator on some spots on my husband's firebird, and that has held up quite well-about 2 years now.