Port matching intake to ported E7's, & R.Rocker Q's

bloopbloob

Member
Sep 27, 2006
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Alberta
Just wondering whats the best way to port match a new intake to ported E7's (staying on engine)? Just make a template of the heads and then transfer over to the intake manifold?

Next question is what kind of gains will aftermarket roller rockers make over stock (on ported heads)? I dont know too much about valvetrain components. Should i go 1.6 or 1.7 and why? Is it difficult to install them correctly? Anything else i would need to do the swap? (springs?)
 
I believe most people do the port work by going by the gaskets. My heads and intake are both basket matched to Felpro 1250s so in theory they should line up near perfectly.
 
get some machinist's blue, or any dye in a can, put it on the intake manifold. then take the gasket you will use on the heads, line the gasket up on the intake perfectly. then take something with a VERY FINE point on it and scribe a line around the edge of the gaskets, the line will show up good with dye on the manifold.

then take a die grinder and a good alum cutting bit ( less teeth) and open the port to the line and blend it all in about an inch or so.

not hard at all just takes a little time.
 
I heard that port matching doesnt yield any real gains. for the best results you have to port the entire runner?


Well it's not going to give you mountains of power or probably anything you can really feel, BUT my buddy gasket matched the intake and exhaust ports on a set of E7s (the ones on my car right now) and he dynoed back to back before and after and picked up 11hp at the wheels....that's not bad at all for just a few hours in grinding.
 
I heard that port matching doesnt yield any real gains. for the best results you have to port the entire runner?

depends on difference situations.

if you have some nice heads that are ported good. and your intake isnt matched, its not ideal.

sure it may be not be a big difference but its just one of those small things that adds up with other small things then it starts making a difference.

and to bloopbloob.

what intake did you get exactly and what cam are your running?

the basic aftermarket rockers come as stock replacments, alot of of them come pedestal mount, which is like factory, the rocker bolts down to the head and there is no real adjustment.

very easy to install. you just bolt them down. 1.7s will give you some lift but nothing you can feel.

i put 1.7s on my stock cam and i couldnt tell a difference.
theni ran a b-cam in my engine i rebuilt and it bumped the lift of the B to around
.510 which is pretty good, the B cam is lacking in lift anways.

alot of aftermarket alum heads like TFS and AFR etc are meant for stud mount rockers which need adjustment. i think edelbrock is one who makes a pedestal mount head .
 
depends on difference situations.

if you have some nice heads that are ported good. and your intake isnt matched, its not ideal.

sure it may be not be a big difference but its just one of those small things that adds up with other small things then it starts making a difference.

and to bloopbloob.

what intake did you get exactly and what cam are your running?

the basic aftermarket rockers come as stock replacments, alot of of them come pedestal mount, which is like factory, the rocker bolts down to the head and there is no real adjustment.

very easy to install. you just bolt them down. 1.7s will give you some lift but nothing you can feel.

i put 1.7s on my stock cam and i couldnt tell a difference.
theni ran a b-cam in my engine i rebuilt and it bumped the lift of the B to around
.510 which is pretty good, the B cam is lacking in lift anways.

alot of aftermarket alum heads like TFS and AFR etc are meant for stud mount rockers which need adjustment. i think edelbrock is one who makes a pedestal mount head .

I dont have the intake yet... still trying to figure out exactly where i want to go right now. I'm leaning towards just a cobra for now, then when the time comes for a full h/c/i, i'll sell it and buy a matched kit.
My heads have been ported, so i'm sure port matching would help. i'm not expecting big gains or anything, but i figure i might as well do it while its apart.
Stock cam
 
11 at the wheels is actually a really good gain. thats about 15-18 at the flywheel just from spending a little time smoothing out the flow. What you want to avoid doing is completely smoothing out/polishing the intake runner as turbulence is actually a good thing in the intake tract. While you are in there...you might as well gasket match the upper to the lower as well. Remove any casting flash or imperfections. Dont go crazy...but any massaging will help.
 
Use the stock gasket from a Fel Pro MS 93334 gasket kit and use that as a pattern on the intake. Work on the short side turn to make the radius larger - there is a how-to article on my website in the Tech section.
 
Here is something I saw on a late night show on the DIY network:

They were working on an old Mustang (I think, or was it a T-bird?) and with heads mounted on the block they fit the lower intake to the heads and snugged up the bolts. Then they took a coat hanger and straightened it leaving a small hook at one end and sharpened the end of the hook to a point.

Next, they extended the hook down an intake tract until they felt the hook hit the edge of the head, they then pulled the hanger so the pointed end of the hook poked the edge of any difference between the lower intake and heads. When done with all 8 intake tracts they pulled the upper intake.

Once off, a straightedge was placed on the middle of the marks (vertically) and a line was drawn across so you now have the mean difference across the manifold. The intake-head gasket was mounted so the ports matched up with the line drawn with the straightedge and the ports were traced onto the lower intake and from this guide the porting was done. I guess the concept was that although you are gasket matching you are not ensuring the lower intake and head ports will be properly lined up where this technique guarantees this.

Thoughts?
 
I use that same procedure when I have heads mounted on the already machined block to be used with the head gaskets to be used and the thickness of intake gasket to shim up the intake. What I do different is use a stainless dental pick attached to a wooden rod with a very small tapered end so that the tip is very close the head wall - a coat hanger by virtue of it's thickness will stand off further than the head port wall.

I still say use the MS 93334 gasket - it's close to the head port size.
 
I think Tmoss has a really nice article on how to make a template too. Check out his tech section on his website. He has a ton of information on there. I read every article i could find....and i the knowledge i gained was well worth the time.