possible suspension setup

[undercnstrction]

i've been doing some reading on this site and spent a lot time going through MMs site along with a couple of others and here's what i've come up with...

1) MMs XL full length sub-frames................$150
2) front coil over kit with springs................$354
3) Tokico D spec shocks/struts..................$560
4) MMs k-member....................................$90
5) MMs rear lower control arms..................$250
6) MMs Panhard Bar.................................$330
7) MMs Heavy Duty Torque Arm.................$650
8) MMs caster camber plates.....................$200

a couple of things i'm not sure of, there is a huge difference in the way a MM k-member looks vs a k-member from other places. also a huge difference in price. i've also read that tubular a-arms need to go along with a tubular k-member. MMs site doesn't mention that but there piece doesn't look as elaborate as the QA1 (and others) piece. also, i'm not sure what springs i'd need to run in the rear.

i don't know that i'll end up going this elaborate but from what i've read up to this point it should be a pretty "sticky" setup........right?

what did i miss?

 

[capri debris]

You can use stock front A arms with a tubular K member, but tubular A arms would be best.

As for rear control arms, the only ones you should get are ones that are fully adjustable with poly at one end and spherical on the other. Do BOTH the uppers AND lowers.

Rear springs should be coil over with an interior tower brace.

Front triangular shock tower brace is a must.

Hotchkis CC plates are the best I've found.

17" x 9" wheels and sticky low profile tires.

A good alignment.

 

[undercnstrction]

You can use stock front A arms with a tubular K member, but tubular A arms would be best.

As for rear control arms, the only ones you should get are ones that are fully adjustable with poly at one end and spherical on the other. Do BOTH the uppers AND lowers.

Rear springs should be coil over with an interior tower brace.

Front triangular shock tower brace is a must.

Hotchkis CC plates are the best I've found.

17" x 9" wheels and sticky low profile tires.

A good alignment.

from what i've been able to find out, if you go with a torque arm AND a panhard bar, you can remove the upper control arms. the only reason i didn't mention rear coil overs was i've read the ride is very harsh for a street car (that's where this car will spend most of it's time). as for the strut tower brace, yup, forgot that one...good call

 

[capri debris]

I'm suggesting that you don't go with a torque arm and panhard bar, but rather put some good control arms on. With the spherical ends, you'll get full articulation of the rear without binding, just like the torque arm set up, but it will be cheaper.

I suggested coil overs in the rear mainly for the adjustablity feature. And the ride isn't as harsh as some say.

 

[EPIK]

MM stuff is MUCH better quality than QA1, & has more engineering & research into their parts & the durability is unmatched by any other company. A torque arm setup eliminates the rear upper control arms all together. A tq arm/PHB setup is light years better than a standard mustang 4 link setup.... The setup you have planned out is pretty much the ultimate street/strip solid axle setup you can get for a 79-04 stang.

I have that complete setup on my 03, just havent got the tq arm installed yet.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

MM stuff is MUCH better quality than QA1, & has more engineering & research into their parts & the durability is unmatched by any other company. A torque arm setup eliminates the rear upper control arms all together. A tq arm/PHB setup is light years better than a standard mustang 4 link setup.... The setup you have planned out is pretty much the ultimate street/strip solid axle setup you can get for a 79-04 stang.

I have that complete setup on my 03, just havent got the tq arm installed yet.

Lazy Bastard , like i said when you're down here for knotts we'll get that bitch installed, do you have the regular or HD one?

 

[Shaolin Crane]

I'm suggesting that you don't go with a torque arm and panhard bar, but rather put some good control arms on. With the spherical ends, you'll get full articulation of the rear without binding, just like the torque arm set up, but it will be cheaper.

I suggested coil overs in the rear mainly for the adjustablity feature. And the ride isn't as harsh as some say.

are you serious, why wouldnt you jump at the chance to update the archaic rear suspension to a 3 link design, everyone keeps talking about rough ride this, vibrations that, and i have one of the most agressive setups i have ever ridden in coil overs with 500/375, and a HD torque arm, and surprisingly the ride isnt that rough, now its not a cadillac but its not totally abusive either, but is definitely something i never regret doing, even on my 275/40/17 i can do a 3800rpm clutch dump and the car hooks hard on the street, and with the TA/PHB setup you lose that wavy uneasy feeling you get in the foxes when pushing your car hard in the twisties

To the OP only thing i would change about your combo would be the Shocks and struts, for that setup Bilsteins are a must IMO, sure they are more expensive and arent adjustable but you dont really need it with the way they are designed

BTW i just noticed you chose the HD torque arm, but also chose HD RLCA's how much power are you looking to put down exactly?

 

[EPIK]

Lazy Bastard , like i said when you're down here for knotts we'll get that bitch installed, do you have the regular or HD one?

LOL... I have been considering doing an IRS swap because I want the cadillac like ride quality, but after talking to Jason @ MM last night, I am convinced I gotta get this TA installed asap.... He assured me that the ride quality after installing the TA is a night & day difference over stock for the better...


I have the HD version BTW.

 

[undercnstrction]

thanx for all of the input and opinions.

Shaolin Crane, i was hoping you'd find your way to this thread 'cuz i know you've got a couple of suspension upgrades on your ride

i'll go back and look at the rear coil over setups and see what they run as well then. i do remember seeing full kits so i'll check those out too. the coilover kits say they can adjust ride height? so that means that i'll be able to drop the ride height the same as i would have with the eibachs correct? or is the adjustment so minute that you won't notice a change in the stance of car? i'm assuming the quad shocks would be a thing of the past as well?

as far as the HD stuff, i went with worst case scenario. after reading your reponse i went back and looked at them to see why i picked them. it was late last night and the only number i saw was the low end of the rated torque for the "standard" stuff. but they are rated at 330-590ft-lbs. i REALLY don't see myself getting anywhere near the upper end of that rating so the standard gear would work fine........and it's CHEAPER

 

[EPIK]

thanx for all of the input and opinions.

Shaolin Crane, i was hoping you'd find your way to this thread 'cuz i know you've got a couple of suspension upgrades on your ride

i'll go back and look at the rear coil over setups and see what they run as well then. i do remember seeing full kits so i'll check those out too. the coilover kits say they can adjust ride height? so that means that i'll be able to drop the ride height the same as i would have with the eibachs correct? or is the adjustment so minute that you won't notice a change in the stance of car? i'm assuming the quad shocks would be a thing of the past as well?

as far as the HD stuff, i went with worst case scenario. after reading your reponse i went back and looked at them to see why i picked them. it was late last night and the only number i saw was the low end of the rated torque for the "standard" stuff. but they are rated at 330-590ft-lbs. i REALLY don't see myself getting anywhere near the upper end of that rating so the standard gear would work fine........and it's CHEAPER

With coilovers, you can drop the car so low, that the tires could tuck into the wells, but it wouldn't be a good idea because you would have absolutely no suspension travel at that height....

 

[undercnstrction]

LOL... I have been considering doing an IRS swap because I want the cadillac like ride quality, but after talking to Jason @ MM last night, I am convinced I gotta get this TA installed asap.... He assured me that the ride quality after installing the TA is a night & day difference over stock for the better...


I have the HD version BTW.

can you do me a favor and let me know what you think of it after you've got it installed?

what made you go with the HD over the standard?

 

[EPIK]

can you do me a favor and let me know what you think of it after you've got it installed?

what made you go with the HD over the standard?

No prob....

I went for the HD just in case I was able to afford a whipple or KB sometime down the road.

 

[undercnstrction]

With coilovers, you can drop the car so low, that the tires could tuck into the wells, but it wouldn't be a good idea because you would have absolutely no suspension travel at that height....

DAMN.....now THAT'S adjustability!!!!!!!

 

[Shaolin Crane]

With coilovers, you can drop the car so low, that the tires could tuck into the wells, but it wouldn't be a good idea because you would have absolutely no suspension travel at that height....

Yup heres me car at show/street height

heres my car at track/race height
PICT0047-2.flv video by ShaolinCrane - Photobucket
notice how high the rear tires are from the rear fenders, sorry but rarely can you look good and and perform well at the same time

 

[Shaolin Crane]

can you do me a favor and let me know what you think of it after you've got it installed?

what made you go with the HD over the standard?

I went with the HD for the FR1 347 i have going in the car, but unless you're pushing huge power the standard arm should will be fine

 

[undercnstrction]

No prob....

I went for the HD just in case I was able to afford a whipple or KB sometime down the road.

probably an excellent plan. i believe they are a couple hundred more up front but if it's even a remote possiblity it's probably money well spent.

would a huffer put you close to 600lb-ft of torque?

 

[Shaolin Crane]

With coilovers, you can drop the car so low, that the tires could tuck into the wells, but it wouldn't be a good idea because you would have absolutely no suspension travel at that height....

with coil overs you can drop the car so low the K member touches the ground

 

[undercnstrction]

Yup heres me car at show/street height

heres my car at track/race height
PICT0047-2.flv video by ShaolinCrane - Photobucket
notice how high the rear tires are from the rear fenders, sorry but rarely can you look good and and perform well at the same time

i wondered about that when i first saw that pic. i kept looking at it thinking it was REALLY low. are you able to drive it that way? doesn't seem like you have enough clearance to turn.

 

[EPIK]

probably an excellent plan. i believe they are a couple hundred more up front but if it's even a remote possiblity it's probably money well spent.

would a huffer put you close to 600lb-ft of torque?

With a built 32V modular & a big whipple, its not hard at all to see 600rwtq. But All I have right now is a bolt on stock 32V with 327rwtq

 

[Shaolin Crane]

i wondered about that when i first saw that pic. i kept looking at it thinking it was REALLY low. are you able to drive it that way? doesn't seem like you have enough clearance to turn.

go through my progress thread in my sig and you'll see how im able to do that, but yeah its really low, high sides on really large speeds bumps but everywhere else is fine, eevn on driveways, the springs are so stiff it doesnt bottom out