I'm a big 10 hole fan. I think of them as the poor man's Welds. I've always wanted to widen a set for the back, but i want to deep dish them and i'm not sure how well that would work or if it could even be done. They would have to change the offset somehow so the rim sits further into the wheel well and i'm not sure that's possible. They don't look bad painted black with the face left silver. You could always widen the backs and make the front into skinnies too.
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They potentially combine the powder cure schedule with the metal aging schedule so both are done at the same time.
Unless you know the alloy of aluminum, and the heat treatment, you have no idea if the wheel really will weaken. Not knowing what the factory did to the wheel adds to the problem because their coating process could use a short aging temperature period as part of the manufacturing process...and then 400 degrees in an aftermarket powder coating oven could begin to overage the aluminum and reduce it's strength.
So you could be totally fine with one aluminum wheel, and then be unsafe with another because of the processes the wheel was subjected to as well as the alloy.
Most cast wheels are 356 aluminum (forged/machined are usually 6061). If a 10-hole is already at t6 condition from factory, then at hour at 400f might create a t7 condition which is weaker. But, I do not know what alloy the 10-hole is, or what heat treatment it already has. In fact, most people don't know what allow/heat treatment their wheels are....so it's a risk some people take with no issue
There are some pro podercoaters that have the metallurgical knowledge to do aluminum wheels safely, and some that just slap stuff in an oven
I really dont see how PC damages wheels, maybe back in the day when the powders werent as effective, but now any powder i use takes 9 minutes at 325* thats not really long enough to do anything but melt the powder
I really dont see how PC damages wheels, maybe back in the day when the powders werent as effective, but now any powder i use takes 9 minutes at 325* thats not really long enough to do anything but melt the powder
Most powders i use take 9-14 minutes to fully set, now im not a professional and just do my own stuff at the shop, but i would assume wheels see a good amount of heat in road course action, especially when hard braking and sticky tires are used, im not a brainiac like you guys, i just eyeball it.Well, thats why I said it all depends on who does the wheels. A pro with good equipment or a hack with an oven who doesn't know better.
325 is enough to start changing properties of some alloys of aluminum. Might need more than 9 minutes however, but my point is its possible and would be nice to have the expertise to know to avoid the situations that would cause issues.
Thats why i wont let the stuff cool too qucikly, its still metal and will **** it up if i go right from the oven and jut it into water, normally i'll shut the oven off a minute before its done and crack the door, is it the right way? Probably not, but i dont have to pay anyone to powdercoat anymoreSome of the reading I've done suggests that the cooling process is critical with aluminum. I don't remember a lot from my materials class, but consider that aluminum age hardens, or in other words, the hardening actually occurs over time AFTER the aluminum has been exposed to heat.
Most powders i use take 9-14 minutes to fully set, now im not a professional and just do my own stuff at the shop, but i would assume wheels see a good amount of heat in road course action, especially when hard braking and sticky tires are used, im not a brainiac like you guys, i just eyeball it.
Thats why i wont let the stuff cool too qucikly, its still metal and will **** it up if i go right from the oven and jut it into water, normally i'll shut the oven off a minute before its done and crack the door, is it the right way? Probably not, but i dont have to pay anyone to powdercoat anymore
So... just dont have a dip **** pc the wheels. do you think the center cap would be fine to pc? would it warp?
I had a set like that I sold for $100. I thought I was getting a deal since nobody wanted 10-holes at the time but I really wish i saved my factory oem wheels (even if I can't run them)
Ehhh i'm cheap and im sure any set of quality wheels will be ok to PC.Yea, see, I'm no expert. And obviously, if you're just PCing alternator brackets and intake manifolds, you have nothing to worry about. It's the heavy load bearing stuff like wheels that you have to be careful with. I'm sure though, if you do a little homework, you can come up with good information on the right way to PC wheels. I just remember reading about a professional shop that uses a digital oven that would cool the aluminum in stages, like it would drop 100 degrees and hold that for an hour, then drop another 100, etc. Something like that.
Yea, steel holds up to PC fine. Steel has much higher melting/annealing/hardening temps.
Yea, I practically gave mine away. Sometimes I start to feel bad about it, but in all seriousness, anything worth running on a Mustang will get reproduced. Just about every GT or Cobra wheel made by Ford after 1990 has had some sort of an aftermarket reproduction copy, same goes for the pre-'70s wheels. If 10 holers come back in style, I'd be willing to bet somebody, if not MavroMont, will make a reproduction. And at that point, the only people concerned with original OEMs will be the obsessive collectors, which I don't know if I'll ever fall into that category.
That's interesting to know. How do they paint wheels from the factory?
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