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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Power Steering Underdrive Pulley ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave2000GT
  • Start date Start date Nov 10, 2013
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#21
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #21
I would always recommend upgrading to the 3g alternator or better on a Fox.

Kurt
 

mikestang63

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#22
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #22
90lxwhite said:
I put a 95 amp on the fox. One of the better purchases I made
Click to expand...

Curious why a 95 and not a 130 amp? That is normally the option people choose.
 

90lxwhite

I'm kind of a She-Man
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#23
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #23
revhead347 said:
I would always recommend upgrading to the 3g alternator or better on a Fox.

Kurt
Click to expand...
At the time I didn't have access to air tools to notch the alt bracket so the 3G would fit. The 95 amp will suffice
 

90lxwhite

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#24
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #24
mikestang63 said:
Curious why a 95 and not a 130 amp? That is normally the option people choose.
Click to expand...
95 slides right in the 130 does not
 

90lxwhite

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#25
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #25
Dave2000GT said:
Ma

Maybe it's negligible but so is the cost so its worth it either way. Theres literally sh*t tons of mods we all do or have done that are negligible. CAI (in my opinion a negative gain), a degree of timing, air silencer, smog pump, egr delete, ac delete, shorty headers, larger injectors, this list is endless. These mods barely do anything but are still discussed and done. So im trying something new because someone has to, or should we just keep talking about explorer intakes??
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Gt40, 3.73, triax- the only words required to create a 79-95 mustang forum.
 

mikestang63

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#26
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #26
90lxwhite said:
95 slides right in the 130 does not
Click to expand...
Not true. small case 3g and 6g's slide right in and the larger case only need a minor mod on the bracket. You don't need air tools- a dremel, grinder, hacksaw, or drill with a carbide grinding bit will do the job. Well worth the 5 minutes of trimming for a much better unit and larger charging capability.

Hoping you at least upgraded and did not reuse the stock power wires.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
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#27
  • Nov 19, 2013
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90lxwhite said:
Gt40, 3.73, triax- the only words required to create a 79-95 mustang forum.
Click to expand...
I would prefer Trickflow,Vortech and Mickey Thompson
 

90lxwhite

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#28
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #28
mikestang63 said:
Hoping you at least upgraded and did not reuse the stock power wires.
Click to expand...
hmm lemme see... T'was a couple years ago but if memory serves( and sometimes it doesn't) I think I just bolted er on in "as is." The 95 amp works pretty well so I'm gonna let er ride for now until eBay releases an alternator promising 20 horse and 30 ft lb of torque.
 

90lxwhite

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#29
  • Nov 19, 2013
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84Ttop said:
I would prefer Trickflow,Vortech and Mickey Thompson
Click to expand...
Ha touché. Mine was the poor man version
 
Reactions: A5literMan and 84Ttop

MFE92

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#30
  • Nov 19, 2013
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Regarding pulley size: The problem is, the way the system works, there's not a direct linear relationship between pulley speed and pump output. Once it reaches a certain threshold, that's what it puts out. Slowing the pulley down only raises the threshold speed. The way to tune steering feel is with the rack, specifically the spool valve and the torsion bar, which determine how much assist is given to the steering, and at what steering input force.

edit: Words from an engineer who used to work for one of Ford's hydraulics suppliers:
the pulley diameter doesn't make a difference. Does you steering feel different in 2nd gear vs. 3rd gear? The pump is a fixed displacement pump (say, 2.0 gallons per minute) regardless of input speed. Well, to be more accurate, at idle you aren't making the full displacement, but soon after idle (around 1000-1500RPM) you reach full displacement and the pump goes into flow control. After that it's fixed. Adding a bigger pulley means that it takes a few more revs to go into flow control, but lessens the parasitic losses at the high end. Switching to a lower flow pump makes efforts go up, but also makes the rack speed at which you can overcome boost lower (the fluid can't fill the rack fast enough and it "catches"). Not so good.
Click to expand...
 
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Dave2000GT

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#31
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #31
MFE92 said:
Regarding pulley size: The problem is, the way the system works, there's not a direct linear relationship between pulley speed and pump output. Once it reaches a certain threshold, that's what it puts out. Slowing the pulley down only raises the threshold speed. The way to tune steering feel is with the rack, specifically the spool valve and the torsion bar, which determine how much assist is given to the steering, and at what steering input force.

edit: Words from an engineer who used to work for one of Ford's hydraulics suppliers:
Click to expand...
"Lessens parasitic losses at high end" Thank you, this should be obvious, and you dont need a dyno to figure this out like some have suggested.
 

MFE92

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#32
  • Nov 19, 2013
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Well, without a dyno or consistent drag strip testing there's no way to know if the reduction is significant.
 
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Dave2000GT

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#33
  • Nov 19, 2013
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MFE92 said:
Well, without a dyno or consistent drag strip testing there's no way to know if the reduction is significant.
Click to expand...
Sometimes you just gotta have faith
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#34
  • Nov 19, 2013
  • #34
MFE92 said:
Regarding pulley size: The problem is, the way the system works, there's not a direct linear relationship between pulley speed and pump output. Once it reaches a certain threshold, that's what it puts out. Slowing the pulley down only raises the threshold speed. The way to tune steering feel is with the rack, specifically the spool valve and the torsion bar, which determine how much assist is given to the steering, and at what steering input force.

edit: Words from an engineer who used to work for one of Ford's hydraulics suppliers:
Click to expand...

Good info in there anyway. I like picking up titbits like that. Thanks for posting the quote.

Kurt
 
S

Shockj2000

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#35
  • Nov 21, 2020
  • #35
Dave2000GT said:
Has anyone had experience running just the PS underdrive, while leaving the crank pulley at stock ? Is there any change in power or steering response ?

It's offered by this company on ebay
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=221275612448

I'm thinking of giving it a try at the same time as I do an AC delete since I'll be re-sizing the belt already.
Click to expand...
Dave2000GT said:
So I went ahead and threw the underdrive pulley on. I noticed even though it's bigger it's also a bit lighter which is good to reduce the weight of the pulley system. It works - I think the steering does feel a bit better, beyond that I can't tell if it made any difference. It was really easy to do with the free tool rental from autozone, took like 15. Without the tool it would be impossible and you'd break the power steering pump, that's probably why it's not a standard on pulley kits.
Click to expand...
Hey Dave not sure you will read this because it’s such an old thread. Do you know what kind of belt you used? The parts still for sale online and he states to use a different belt but doesn’t know what belt to use
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#36
  • Nov 21, 2020
  • #36
This member has not been around since 2016, he likely will not respond, anyway I would recommend not running an under drive power steering pulley.
 
S

Shockj2000

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#37
  • Nov 21, 2020
  • #37
General karthief said:
This member has not been around since 2016, he likely will not respond, anyway I would recommend not running an under drive power steering pulley.
Click to expand...
Ok I appreciate the response. Seems like a hassle just to have to install it and get a custom belt.
 
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