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Power to Manual windows How-To, check it out!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 85_SS_302_Coupe
  • Start date Start date Aug 18, 2008

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,598
223
Northern KY
Aug 18, 2008
#1
  • Aug 18, 2008
  • #1
I went ahead and labeled the pics, so everyone help themselves and right click save. Hope it helps someone

It really is this cut and dry...it's just removing one setup and riveting the new stuff in. I can't really help with manual to power though, it should just be the same thing in reverse but the power crank is probably a PITA to rivet in since it's spring loaded.



 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Aug 18, 2008
#2
  • Aug 18, 2008
  • #2
Schweeeet. Good pics/write-up.
 

magnj

New Member
May 30, 2007
139
0
0
Aug 18, 2008
#3
  • Aug 18, 2008
  • #3
Awesome, definitely looking to do this. How much weight did you save ya think?
 

93 LX

Founding Member
Jun 2, 2000
3,081
3
0
Norwalk, CA.
Aug 18, 2008
#4
  • Aug 18, 2008
  • #4
nice would like to go the other way though..
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,598
223
Northern KY
Aug 18, 2008
#5
  • Aug 18, 2008
  • #5
Well the changing of the guts is just as simple...the thing that i'm not sure about is how to set up the power arm because it's spring loaded. There's an easy way to do it but i don't know it so i don't wanna write up anything that i'm not sure about. I'm also not the guy to ask about wiring either, but supposedly all Mustangs regardless of engine and year are supposed to have wiring harnesses for power doors because they didn't change the entire harness for the cars that didn't come with the option.
 

trbkrb

Founding Member
Jun 4, 2001
1,976
4
39
Houston, TX
Aug 18, 2008
#6
  • Aug 18, 2008
  • #6
I've gone the other way, manual to power. As for the spring loading, you just have to put the tension on it, use a 3-4" bolt, several nuts and a few washers mounted through the hole in the center of the power regulator, with the bolt holding the arm in place with tension on it. Put a large washer on the bolt, insert into the regulator, then another washer and then a nut, tighten, then let the spring loaded arm rest against the bolt. Then insert the regulator into the door and the end of the arm into the glass slider. Put in the rivets or bolts to mount it to the door and then remove the bolt and nuts holding the arm in place.

As for the wiring, my car did not have any power wiring, so I had to pull all of it from donor cars, along with the rubber door boots. The power window/door harness is totally separate from the rest of the car, and connects to the main harness with a two wire plug located in the driver's side kick panel. You would need the power window relay in the fuse box also.

I figure that pulling the power stuff and wiring probably save like 5 or so pounds. Maybe a bit more if you pull the power locks too.
 

magnj

New Member
May 30, 2007
139
0
0
Aug 19, 2008
#7
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #7
I'm pulling locks, windows and speakers since I never listen to music...that should get me something .
 

PUNISHER RACING

Active Member
Aug 27, 2007
1,124
0
36
FORD CITY, PA.
Aug 19, 2008
#8
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #8
93 I got all the power stuff if you got manual. I feel a trade comin on!
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,598
223
Northern KY
Aug 19, 2008
#9
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #9
What i meant with the wiring part is that all cars are supposed to have plugs in the kick panels that connect to the harness that's inside the doors...i didn't even bother checking mine though so i can't say if it's true or not.

Also i got that info right here on Stangnet so whooo knows
 

sgw_88FoxGT

Member
May 18, 2008
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0
6
Aug 19, 2008
#10
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #10
How exactly do you drill out the rivets?
 

LiquidGT

Member
Oct 8, 2007
368
0
16
Near STL hell
Aug 19, 2008
#11
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #11
sgw_88FoxGT said:
How exactly do you drill out the rivets?
Click to expand...

You just drill a hole through them out and they come right out.
 

glowstang93

20+ Year Stangneter
Feb 9, 2003
853
8
39
Illinois
Aug 19, 2008
#12
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #12
Sometimes they come right out and other times they take a lot of convincing. I especially like the door lock actuator rivits. Those are a pain, thats why I am now using 1/4"stainless bolts instead.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,598
223
Northern KY
Aug 19, 2008
#13
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #13
I believe i used both a 3/16s and 1/4 drill bits at one point or another. You need to drill at an angle into the center...it's a PITA but they'll come out eventually. You might go through a couple drill bits if you don't have nice bits for drilling metal. 5.0 Resto has the rivets, but the big issue there is finding the Big Daddy rivet popper to put them in. My buddy borrowed one from work.

You could use bolts....it's just a pain to get them in and tightened up especially the one that's right by the window crank, and you had better use some lock tight on them so they don't loosen. One of my doors was power and the guts were bolted in so i think it was originally a manual door. Just be sure that the bolt won't interfere with the crank arm and that they're not gonna come loose on ya and they should be ok (but i still say the rivets are best if you can).
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,944
224
Massachusetts
Aug 19, 2008
#14
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #14
What about door panels though? If you have Power Windows can you just cut the small hole and put the crank arm on?

Then you'd need to buy non-power armrests?


I've been thinkin about ditching my power locks and windows but then i look and see that i'm adding weight with sound deadener under the carpet and mass-back carpet and think...is it really worth it?

I'd even like to ditch the power side mirrors and get manual mirrors too

I don't mind it since the car is a weekend car....and less electrical stuff means less failures!



I wish my LX was a no-option car sometimes
 

trbkrb

Founding Member
Jun 4, 2001
1,976
4
39
Houston, TX
Aug 19, 2008
#15
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #15
Nope, non power armrests won't work on power panels. The holes are not in the same places and you will have problems with the front section that turns up. The non power armrests are a few inches shorter to clear the window crank. Power panel armrests don't clear the window crank. Just ask MM& FF about that. They trashed a mint set of black power panels cutting holes in them!

If you change power to manual, or manual to power, you will need door panels and armrests to match, or just cover the panel holes with a sheet metal delete plate.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,944
224
Massachusetts
Aug 19, 2008
#16
  • Aug 19, 2008
  • #16
Eh screw that. I'm not messing up a nice set of Black door panels.

Oh well. I'm a lazy bastard anyway and reaching over to roll the window down would prob get old to me fast
 
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