Problems after C&L Plenum and Accufab 75mm T/B install... NEED HELP!!!

00VERT GT said:
is there a TPS on the stock TB? If so could anyone point it out in a picture?

It's the only electrical accessory attached directly to the throttle body. YOu can't miss it - it's on the forward side (front side) of the TB facing you if you're in the front of the engine bay looking down at your motor.
 
Well I got bad news guys. My idle is still ****ed up. Its better then the past two days, but still not where it should be. Im thinking about taking a video of my rpms to show you exactly what happens. But first I think Im going to run the codes with my programmer then buy a new TPS at Advanced Auto or something. Should I go out and buy a new one tomorrow or mess around with it for a couple more days and see if the computer learns the new idle?
 
Screw it, Im buying a new one tomorrow. I dont feel like messing with it anymore. People on corral said they had the same thing happen to them so they just got a new one and it fixed everything. Thanks a lot everyone. Oh and Ill be sure to update you all on what happens.
 
It's the TPS!!! You should replace The TPS when doing this mod autamatically in my opinion. It is too easy to damage. As soon as I was reading your earlier post about having difficulty with removing it, I believed this to be the problem. Get a new one before you start having bigger problems.

Also, you may want to clean your IAC. Did you install a new K&N, if so clean your MAF with brake cleaner. But don't touch the wires. Do one thing at a time, so you know what fixes the problem. But, the new TPS will do the trick. The fact that the problem is somewhat inconsistent is a dead give away.

Pep Boys sells them for $30. Bring in the old one to be sure you get the same one.
 
Go HoTO! said:
It's the TPS!!! You should replace The TPS when doing this mod autamatically in my opinion. It is too easy to damage. As soon as I was reading your earlier post about having difficulty with removing it, I believed this to be the problem. Get a new one before you start having bigger problems.

Also, you may want to clean your IAC. Did you install a new K&N, if so clean your MAF with brake cleaner. But don't touch the wires. Do one thing at a time, so you know what fixes the problem. But, the new TPS will do the trick. The fact that the problem is somewhat inconsistent is a dead give away.

Pep Boys sells them for $30. Bring in the old one to be sure you get the same one.

Im going to pick up a new one today.
 
i had a problem with mine, after i had taken it out of storage, the A/C had gone bad. is your defroster or a/c on. when mine is on, the idel goes up and down, and sometimes the car dies. it is doing it because it it trying to use the a/c pump. i need to get it fixed, but my car is doing the same thing when it is on.
 
leave the tps alone since you have it somewhat running , unhook the battery and press brake pedal for a few minutes to reset the computer , drive it till the check engine light comes back on and if there is a problem it will , then go get the code pulled and post it on here for more help .
 
I unhooked the battery after I installed the new TPS, the engine light turned back on about 5 min into driving. Im going to take off my MAF and put the stock filter and stuff back on to see if that helps. If it doesnt then Ill run the codes with my programmer and post them.
 
Man do I feel like an idiot. There was another gasket stuck to the plenum that I didnt see. I put it on tonight, but didnt get a chance to turn my car on to see how it runs. Hopefully this was the problem and everything will be ok now.
 
03gtmustang said:
Man do I feel like an idiot. There was another gasket stuck to the plenum that I didnt see. I put it on tonight, but didnt get a chance to turn my car on to see how it runs. Hopefully this was the problem and everything will be ok now.

My wife's escort was idling funny- low actually like it wanted to die. Acted like that for a year and 2 mechanics could not figure it out. Then after the year, not only would it idle low, it would sometimes die. Someone @ MW posted similar situation and new IAC fixed it. Ran to autozone... 30.00 IAC, 2 screws and 2 minutes later. Problem solved, been perfect for the past 5 months. If it's not it, they'll take it back...
 
Well I finally got the idle fixed, the problem was the missing gasket. But today while I was driving the engine light came on. So I hooked up my superchip microtuner to get the codes and looked them up, heres what I got. DTC #1- P0174, Sys too lean (bank 2). DTC#2- P0171, Sys too lean (bank 1), DTC #3- P1000. The superchips book says that the code DTC P1000 is an indication that the vehicle needs to be driven for a period so that the vehicle can "learn" certain operating characteristics. This code cannot be cleared using the DTC Reading clear function. So since I got the P1000 does that mean the engine will fix itself and stop running lean? Or do I need to buy the Pro- M optimizer and fix the air/fuel ratio myself? Also how bad is it to run lean and how long can I be running lean for.
 
I had same problems, I replaced the c&l maf with stock maf and car runs good now. No ses light. I was getting lean codes for left and right bank.

I guess teh c&l maf leans out engine to much. Was told I need a chip to reprogram the a/f curve.

the mods I changed same day was c&l plemum, accufab 75 mm tb, and c&l maf.

hope this helps
 
2 months ago I replaced the stock parts on my 02 GT with an 85mm C&L MAF, C&L Trueflow Tube, Accufab 70mm TB and Accufab plenum. Had the battery disconnected the entire (2 hours) time. Hooked it back up, the computer had reset, and drove it around the block - no problems except for a hanging idle, which has since cured itself. Actually it had calmed down after about a week of driving it. Drives like stock now, screams when stomped on. I have the Superchip SCT as well. I have not had it back to be tuned since these mods...yet. No detonation problems at all, before or after. Maybe I just got lucky? The only thing I've done under the hood since the install is to go back and make sure all the bolts are tight.
 
Well since my first post my engine light has been on this whole time. It said I am running lean, so today I finally got tired of seeing that damn engine light so I decided to install my stock plenum. That didnt work, my engine light is still on and Im still running lean. Could my problem be my MAF or T/B? Id put on my stock airbox but I cant because I lost one of the pieces. Im planning on getting a dyno tune this summer but until then Id like my car to be running the way its supposed to. I dont know how lean it is though.
 
Damnit, I bought the maf used for $150 awhile ago. Im missing the piece that connects the black rubber tube to the stock airbox. Do you guys think I should put the MAF back on for the dyno tune or just leave the stock airbox on and then I probably wont need a tune. So in other words is the MAF worth it with a tune?



 
I have not read all the posts, but I have a lot of first hand experience with this issue:

There are three potential options causing this problem assuming all your lines are back together properly.

Do the following and this will make your problems go away:

1 - You probably damaged your TPS during the swap. Take it off and replace. Disconnect the battery first. $25 at any auto parts store. There are easy to damage.

2 - Remove your IAC and clean with "Intake Cleaner".

3 - Your idle may be "hunting" as the base idle could be set wrong. Hook your battery back up. Then, unplug the wire harness on the IAC. Try to start the car. If it dies out, then the base idle is set too low. Adjust the idle screw slightly and try to start the car again. When set properly, the car will just barely run and may seem like it will stall. If you run like this with the harness removed from the IAC, you will trigger an SES light. If that happensd, disconnect the battery again. Hit the brake pedal a few times to completely drain the battery. Wait aabout 30 minutes and hook it back up.

Then start the car. Let is run until it is warm. Then, turn on the AC for a few minutes then back off again. Drive around. If this does not fix the problem, I won't post for a week.