Professional Products harmonic balancer

98BLKGT

Founding Member
Dec 23, 2001
322
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Chicago area
When buying the PP harmonic balancer, I know I will need the .950" spacer. Do I need a new bolt when using stock size crank pulley or can I reuse the stock bolt? If I do need it, is it some standard bolt where I can get it at a local parts store?
 
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I just did this yesterday The big bolt that hold the balancer to the crank will work but the bolts that hold the pulley to the balancer are too short. I went to lowes and picked up 4 grade 8 allen bolts i think they were 3/8x16 and they were 1 and a half inches long they fit perfectly the 2 inch bolts i tried were too long and bottomed out
 
If you like accurate timing, you'll buy another brand.
This is another one of those cases where you get what you pay for.
I'd use an ATI or Ford Racing.

Looks like you have a quality collection of parts on your car according to your sig, don't cheap out now.
 
If you like accurate timing, you'll buy another brand.
This is another one of those cases where you get what you pay for.
I'd use an ATI or Ford Racing.

Looks like you have a quality collection of parts on your car according to your sig, don't cheap out now.
A lot of people here like the Pro. Products balancer. Seemed like it when I did a search. :shrug:
 
That's because stangnet is the king of all sites when it comes to "i have it, so it must be good". I bet half the guys on this site wouldn't even know if their timing was accurate.

Almost all the time when you find a huge price difference in parts, the cheaper one is built to a lesser standard.

Your car looks to be pretty nice, i honestly wouldn't skimp on the balancer.
 
ARP balancer bolts are cheap. I bought a cheap Summit balancer and after a year of use (3000miles) the ring became unbonded from the hub and started spinning. Took me about 3 months to figure out what the hell was wrong with my car... So don't buy a cheap damper!
 
It was too late, by the time I posted this thread I already ordered it and just had q's about the blots. Anyway, since we are on the subject of it's quality, it looks like its a solid piece and nothing can fall apart (unless over-reved). They used it on Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords too. Maybe I'm just trying to make myself feel better for buying it. :flag:

Oh, one more question, how do you lock the engine from turning while removing the bolt?

mmfp_0711_16_z+ford_small_block_stroker_engine_build+harmonic_balancer.jpg
 
If you like accurate timing, you'll buy another brand.
This is another one of those cases where you get what you pay for.
I'd use an ATI or Ford Racing.

Looks like you have a quality collection of parts on your car according to your sig, don't cheap out now.

Not just the timing thing but the idea it has to do with the balance of the engine. Pretty important to me.

I also put it in 5th to lock the motor from turning, the car might try and run you over a little but the torque will get there soon if you're using a big breaker bar or torque wrench. I believe the torque is 70-90 ft lbs too.
 
I use only the ATI balancer myself. Worked with a machine shop that did only race engines, and he said that there were only 2 things he had ever found that did not need to be "fixed" when buying out of the box parts, one was a set of $15K Chapman Racing cylinder heads for a Windsor (at $15K they better be perfect!) and after testing the ATI baslancer on at least 200 applications and none of them was off by even 1/10th of a gram, and lined up perfect with the degree wheel, he quit testing them as well and just used them straight out of the box. But that is just my experience. If it was me, I would sell the "pro" products dampener and buy an ATI.
 
Not just the timing thing but the idea it has to do with the balance of the engine. Pretty important to me.

I also put it in 5th to lock the motor from turning, the car might try and run you over a little but the torque will get there soon if you're using a big breaker bar or torque wrench. I believe the torque is 70-90 ft lbs too.


Using a torque wrench to break bolts loose will make it inaccurate. I would put a breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter.