Electrical Proform Electric Fan Install - With Pics

stang89bidges

5 Year Member
Mar 14, 2014
727
143
74
41
Fort Worth Texas
I have since replaced this fan but wanted to post my install since I never really found full instructions with pics related to our fox's. I won't go into too much detail as there are different variations you can choose in wiring these things.

First off I want to mention this fan is a good fan, works well, had it installed 2 years almost before I replaced it. 2800cfm pull. But if your using forced induction you need a larger radiator in conjuction to keep those temps down. If your just street and no track. Racing then you should be knowledgeable enough to know this fan isn't for you.

Here is the fan specs.
Proform Mustang Electric Fan Kit (86-93) 5.0


Another thing, your not going to gain horsepower switching to electric fan. You may free up 1 or 2 but this fan isn't for racing so you shouldn't be looking in this department for power but for cooling that beastly street machine. Your going to get nice benefits at idle and traffic and hot days of slow cruising. And if you use the manual switch option you have full control for any other reason.


On with the install.

I have a vortech supercharger installed which uses a dual crank pulley for the blower 8 rib belt. The fan does fit and if mounted right it doesn't hit even when engine tweaks under load.

WP_20140425_017.jpg



This is the controller mounted in the fan. Black is ground, red is power, green is trigger. I ran power from solenoid, ground to side fender where factory battery connection is located, and trigger to the power side of the coolant overflow sensor.


WP_20140425_001.jpg

WP_20140425_021.jpg

WP_20140425_019.jpg


Ran wires down the radiator with headlight harness. This isn't finished product of course.

WP_20140425_002.jpg


Do yourself a favor and get the heat shrink that seals water out like these.

WP_20140425_007.jpg



Power connection on solenoid, had to redo the heat shrink ugh... So far the stock solenoid has been fine for use but I have since moved it directly to the battery. The solenoid isn't really meant to be used as a power distribution block.


WP_20140425_006.jpg


Ground connection from fan to fender. Stock battery connection here too. Just next to washer fluid reservoir.

20150804_203457.jpg


This is the 30 amp relay that came with the kit. DO NOT USE IT. Or at least test it first. I pulled my hair out for months troubleshooting this fan. It kept shutting off. Sporadic on and off issues. Figured out it was overloading the relay. Replaced relay with a 30 amp in line fuse and the problems went away. In my case it was the relay. But it could be a wiring problem in other cases so make sure you wire everything proper.

WP_20140425_005.jpg


It fits behind battery. It needs to be close to power supply. Again, this is red wire power feed.

WP_20140425_004.jpg


I laugh everytime I look at my old newbie skills of wiring. This is how I connected the green trigger wire to the overflow sensor lol. It worked fine, but there are better sources and cleaner ways of doing this.


WP_20140425_011.jpg


Here is the source side of power to overflow sensor. I just cut the wire in two and used a blade type connector. It's sealed nice but it's ugly. But. It allows me to disconnect if I ever needed to. I never needed to lol. Do it right. Use another source and a better splice. I have actually since connected my trigger to the solenoid for now. It runs with car off. So it cools after I shut engine off. Eventually I will use a relay and a timer function like new cars.

WP_20140425_012.jpg


Now for trigger to the A/C. I used a quick splice at the source side of plug for the A/C switch. Just under the solenoid.

20150804_203749.jpg

20150804_203726.jpg


Manual switch install. I used the strip under radio for location. Ran trigger wire from fan in through firewall, switch power came from fuse block, ground under dash.

WP_20140426_018.jpg

WP_20140426_017.jpg

WP_20140426_016.jpg


Used #16 on fuse box, spliced into wire. You could do it better with an add-a-fuse link.

WP_20140426_015.jpg

WP_20140426_014.jpg


Here is everything plugged into fan controller. A/C is the yellow plug(bottom) and the blue plug is the manual switch.

WP_20140426_023.jpg

WP_20140426_024.jpg


Additional photos

ad450905-7cf3-4162-80b9-773d9ef1b93a.jpg

WP_20140426_024.jpg

20150804_203711.jpg


This is how many volts I see on battery when fan is running. 800 CCA battery.

WP_20140426_021.jpg

WP_20140425_015.jpg

WP_20140425_010.jpg


Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
  • Sponsors(?)


mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
9,907
6,696
204
In the garage
couple of things

  • never wire a fan directly to the fuse box. That is a fire waiting to happen. Always use an inline 30 amp inline fuse wired directly to the battery or the + side of the solenoid
  • 12.39 volts with the fan on means your alternator cannot handle the load. I assume you had the stock 65amp alternator. You need a min of 12.70 v to start a car.
  • The proform is essentially the same as the base model black tragic fan and is made for a stock motor
 

stang89bidges

5 Year Member
Mar 14, 2014
727
143
74
41
Fort Worth Texas
Yeah, my wiring knowledge sucked when I first installed this 2 years ago. I mentioned using an add-a-fuse to the fuse block instead of my way. Or does that count as a bad idea too?

I have an upgraded 3G alternator. I also upgraded the power wire to 4awg and the battery cables are both 2awg power and nuetral. What would this mean? Making me wonder at this point.

I have since upgraded to a different fan and controller now, but its the upgraded 3300cfm black magic, which is essentially a very similar controller so all my wiring essentially stayed the same.

Black Magic Mustang Electric Fan Kit (79-93)
 

stang89bidges

5 Year Member
Mar 14, 2014
727
143
74
41
Fort Worth Texas
And by add a fuse, I mean one of these:

upload_2015-12-31_12-48-24.png