Ok. I just have to decide if I want to run the stock pullies or not he heheee. Communicating with a guy on fb messenger who's setup is similiar and he made 416/423 and he said those tuners didn't know what they were doing lol. He ended up getting a mail tune from Ted Jenkins and said his car runs and does waaay better; he didn't get it dynoed again though. Just asked him if he's running stock pullies and I'll see what he says. Those numbers aren't bad and I'm sure I'll be satisfied.
Ted Jenkins is the man on fb he does remote tuning as well......
Exactly what I was thinking........Personally, I would not wring my fingers about this too much.
Get it all together
Run the stock pulleys
Get it tuned and squared away
Once you've recovered a minute and have had time to put a few miles on the new combo, [then] worry about pulleys. Adding a few lbs of boost doesn't mean you need a new tune. The tune by then will have already been shown the way. More air mass doesn't break it.
for @from6to8 this is the advice i'm going with on mine. I don't plan on running the 'low boost' kit forever. But i want to get it all up and running (it is - its down right now for other things) drive it for a while in this combo then proceed with going deeper down the path. I already have TFS heads sitting on my garage shelf waiting to go on, but i will probably wait longer and just do a complete engine rebuild and other mods all at once later on. CA SMOG really throws a wrench into what i can and cannot do though.Personally, I would not wring my fingers about this too much.
Get it all together
Run the stock pulleys
Get it tuned and squared away
Once you've recovered a minute and have had time to put a few miles on the new combo, [then] worry about pulleys. Adding a few lbs of boost doesn't mean you need a new tune. The tune by then will have already been shown the way. More air mass doesn't break it.
If you don't mind, take a look at all the things I put a ? by and let me know your thoughts. I think I'll be fine with the billet adj regulator though when Scott and I talked last week he mentioned he liked aeromotive because of something with boost and regular fb regulators that he likes the aero better. I think I have a handle on everything else and feel that the modded list I have vs what Scott wanted to use if I let him put together, I feel I'll be fine with that....Personally, I would not wring my fingers about this too much.
Get it all together
Run the stock pulleys
Get it tuned and squared away
Once you've recovered a minute and have had time to put a few miles on the new combo, [then] worry about pulleys. Adding a few lbs of boost doesn't mean you need a new tune. The tune by then will have already been shown the way. More air mass doesn't break it.
yeah that's what I'll do. ONly really one other question from my list about the fpr and if my billet adj will be fine I'll just run it and not worry about the aeromotive. Other than that I'll finalize the list and start getting best pricing and start ordering...for @from6to8 this is the advice i'm going with on mine. I don't plan on running the 'low boost' kit forever. But i want to get it all up and running (it is - its down right now for other things) drive it for a while in this combo then proceed with going deeper down the path. I already have TFS heads sitting on my garage shelf waiting to go on, but i will probably wait longer and just do a complete engine rebuild and other mods all at once later on. CA SMOG really throws a wrench into what i can and cannot do though.
Also, just be aware that replacing the pulley on the Vortech may void its warranty, if your concerned about that.
video unavailable lolYou will have more than enough fuel flow regardless of which parts you go with.
Speaking of which.... Something @AeroCoupe mentioned:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ium8jf4Jm04&list=PLmH4cY5RfBUWaLcmgN_voW67Y1Vzz1t0U&index=2
Meh... I don't like these things so, I'll leave recommendations to others.Ignitiion box ( might be either Mallory hyfire 6 or Pertronix digi HP instead of MSD)
This does [not] need to be calibrated for any injectors. You are getting a tune so this is not requred. Furthermore, a "calibrated" meter (this is a misnomer BTW) would never allow you to run 60s with an A9X. The size you have selected is fine. It should come with a transfer function printed on a sheet. Give that sheet to the tuner.Pro M 92 mm MAF ( seems I'll need to get it calibrated through them at purchase, or??)
CoolUPR 4 inch power pipe
We covered this.Scott suggested a 3.47 pulley ( ?)
We covered this.255 fp ( Scott suggested 340 with upgrade wiring but said 255 should work but suggest to upgrade wiring. My research shows there's a lot of folks running the oem wiring and have been fine for a long time)
I run an OEM style FPR. Under what conditions would you need to adjust fuel pressure? Anyone?Scott suggested an aeromotive fp regulator ( I already have a billet adj. on it and I see some guys run it, should be fine?)
I have a regulator that keeps my coil saturated. I can adjust voltage directly to the coil. The ignition systems on these cars is pretty stout. More stout than aftermarket systems IMO. We got a very hot/fat spark out of our ignition systems and relatively cheap spark plugs. I don't see the point in aftermarket ignition systems in our cars if you're not using a boost-retard.Can I run an ignition box or does it make sense to run one with the oem coil?
I think that is a [very] optimistic but there will be an improvement. Centri blowers are not as 'inlet restriction free' sensitive as positive displacement blowers are.It seems 30-40 more hp with the 4 inch power pipe vs what comes in the kit?
Post an image of what you have.Pcv setup with breather on the oil fill. The line that is now from the CAI nipple to the VC nipple will go where with the SC?
video unavailable lol
so at less than 6 psi will I be ok running a setup like gkomo with the check valves in 2 locations and not worry about using a breather at all or even catch can?Correct. Boost pressure is a side effect. The better your engine processes air, the less boost you get.
Even so, the HP on the better breathing engine will be higher than the lower breathing engine even though the P,S, and I's read higher.
It's that pesky pressure vs. volume thing that I refer to all the time. We had a similar conversation about fuel pumps.
so at less than 6 psi will I be ok running a setup like gkomo with the check valves in 2 locations and not worry about using a breather at all or even catch can?
I will get an image later when I get home and upload.Meh... I don't like these things so, I'll leave recommendations to others.
This does [not] need to be calibrated for any injectors. You are getting a tune so this is not requred. Furthermore, a "calibrated" meter (this is a misnomer BTW) would never allow you to run 60s with an A9X. The size you have selected is fine. It should come with a transfer function printed on a sheet. Give that sheet to the tuner.
Cool
We covered this.
We covered this.
I run an OEM style FPR. Under what conditions would you need to adjust fuel pressure? Anyone?
I have a regulator that keeps my coil saturated. I can adjust voltage directly to the coil. The ignition systems on these cars is pretty stout. More stout than aftermarket systems IMO. We got a very hot/fat spark out of our ignition systems and relatively cheap spark plugs. I don't see the point in aftermarket ignition systems in our cars if you're not using a boost-retard.
I think that is a [very] optimistic but there will be an improvement. Centri blowers are not as 'inlet restriction free' sensitive as positive displacement blowers are.
Post an image of what you have.
Just picture in your mind, the flow of air at idle and cruise. Crank case air is already metered so, it [should] return to vacuum to the inlet [after] the mass air meter.
However... venting crank case air to atmosphere is not the end of the world and works just fine. We already discussed using one that has a check-valve.
you'd have to go look at his post on the first page lolWithout seeing/knowing the entirety of what you all talked about.... I can't even image what this looks like.
so at less than 6 psi will I be ok running a setup like gkomo with the check valves in 2 locations and not worry about using a breather at all or even catch can?
I'm no guru so hopefully i'm explaining this correctly, but the way my valve cover part of the PCV system is almost 'like' a breather with a check valve. Instead of running the hose from the VC to TB (after MAF), it runs from VC to 'before' the MAF, into the airbox, but with a check valve. So its basically venting to atmosphere but just right into the air filter and the check valve makes sure no unmetered air gets into the crankcase.Without seeing/knowing the entirety of what you all talked about.... I can't even image what this looks like.
yeah it was you who I mentioned and said he'd need to go look at what you said to maybe understand. Btw mine right now is like that with the nipple of the VC going to the nipple of the CAI which is before the meter I'm sure but I'll double check. So bascially if I can do that same thing I might be fine but if I need to run check valves and that'll make things better I'll run 1 or 2 as well......I'm no guru so hopefully i'm explaining this correctly, but the way my valve cover part of the PCV system is almost 'like' a breather with a check valve. Instead of running the hose from the VC to TB (after MAF), it runs from VC to 'before' the MAF, into the airbox, but with a check valve. So its basically venting to atmosphere but just right into the air filter and the check valve makes sure no unmetered air gets into the crankcase.
The other check valve is added in between the factory PCV and upper intake.
I'm not sure who @Noobz347 was referring to with not being able to picture this set up, but thats how mine is.
I guess you made that comment for him?Gasses that you are recovering from the crank case is already metered.
So, you should return it [after] the MAF and not before.
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