Sometimes life in general gets in the way, lol. Working and all that has tied up a lot of my time. A bunch of car trouble has also be discouraging over the last few months. With just getting my car all finished (again) and now having bigger problems than ever with it, who knows what's next, lol.
I'm glad to see your car is coming along nicely! No video clip of this thing running??
got some more pictures of the car with everything mocked up now I got the car started and everything but my phone wont let me email the video to my email to download it to here so im going to take my camera there sometime and get her to start. I have a few codes that i need to fix KOEO is 23. KOER is 23 13 and 91. Im wondering if with 13 is a bad HEGO sensor even though its new its a NGK sensor so idk how reliable they are compared to motorcraft.
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DUN DUN DUNNNNNN shes started haha the belt squeaks a little i think i bought it to long so im gonna be getting a shorter one and re align.
DUN DUN DUNNNNNN shes started haha the belt squeaks a little i think i bought it to long so im gonna be getting a shorter one and re align.
Yes, video works.
And nice work! I've been on SN since 2011 and have somehow managed to skip over your entire thread until today? I'm gonna have to start on page 1 and look at all you've done. But the car looks sweet and sounds good.
Was wondering this myself.
But if he was to stick it in the fender, wouldn't he have to get a new MAF that's cold air calibrated? Cold air MAFs are calibrated for the bend that's before them.
No. Special meter is not required. If you recall, the OEM induction was/is cold air.
Moreover, there's really no such thing as a 'cold air meter'. I think what you're thinking of are blow through meters vs. a regular type meter. Blow through meters are designed to operate with forced induction discharge air (hot air coming off a blower or turbo). Their elements are made from more sturdy materials and are less affected by heat/hot air.
Thanks man i still need to put a set of mufflers onto her but shes unbearably loud in the garage on startup
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/maf-question.867731/
Here's where my thinking was coming from. Nothing about forced induction.
Why sell cold air MAFs and why sell MAFs for stock air boxs if they're all the same?
Yeah... That convo is mostly about meters that do well if mounted close to a bend vs. meters that don't. Any vendor selling a meter that is SPECIFICALLY tuned for a CAI is selling snake oil.
I've run all kinds of meters through a slew of different cold air intakes. OEM meters seem to work well in nearly all scenarios, regardless of bend if the stock screen is in place. Others (units without the screens) sometimes have to be "clocked" for them to smooth out. PMAS or Pro-M meters are probably the best on the market.
It's true with nearly all meters that the further you get them away from the bend in the tube, the more stable they are. That's more of a choice of cold air setup than it is of meter.
C&L meters or meters that use sampling tubes tend to have the most issues with turbulence. IMO, the question I ask myself with those kinds of meters are not, "Am I going to have a problem with this setup" it's "What problem am I going to have with this setup and what will I need to do to correct it".
I love Love LOVE Lightning mass air meters. Great meter if you have the means to input your transfer function. Near useless if you don't (unless you own a Lightning).
Not a huge fan of CAIs like the one's that BBK offers. I prefer CAIs like those offered by Anderson Ford Motorsports. They take those kinds of considerations into account when they design a kit.
That's not to say that the BBK items aren't good. You need to plan ahead to assure smooth air flow over the meter element.
@MikeH686
The cone filter inside the engine compartment is a prime cause of idle surges/stalls. It sucks up hot, turbulent air from the fan. I hope that you put it there just take the picture.