Valves. They burn in half and drop down into the cylinder.. in turn, being driven back up through the chamber rendering the cyl head useless. Got that t shirt.. very important that the fuel solenoid opens... lol.
Well I can say bad things happen if the fuel solenoid doesn't come on lol. Buddy melted 4 Pistons last year when it happened to him. Now the motor ran for 8 seasons with hundreds of nitrous passes. Stuff happens and crap gets broken no matter what combo you run. Nitrous is fairly easy to tune. Like boosted stated above- different strokes for different folks. I like the nitrous/single plane idea the most because its different,easy(relatively speaking),and I'm the most familiar with it. If using a wet system you don't need a standalone ecu etc. very basic tuning. If you're not going to the track very often though it's kind of worthless. Street tires won't hook on the street and it's an instant "on".
With a competent tuner unless your looking to run it on the ragged edge every weekend once the tune is sort out its basically turn the key and go . I haven't had a single issue with my tune with my dinosaur Pms since kris tuned itI'm not sure I'm going to start doing a lot of no time racing with guys that I know. I could probably keep going forward with the turbo since I already have the bulk of the turbo system already
You ever check the ect sensor ? I had mentioned it a while back and it will do some funky stuff with the idle because he computer thinks the car is extreme cold or hot etc.I gotcha, hey anyone wanna help me with a new dilemma I have with my car. She starts completely fine but doesn't stay idling cuts out after a minute I'm gonna assume it may be the tps sensor one weird thing is that it has a weird temperament when idling every so often it spikes to 1100 then back to 800 but it acts like a miss almost. I have an extra tps sensor in my shed I might throw on in a little bit. A couple weeks ago the car was running fine just hot. I ended up needing to get a standard rotation water pump to get more belt wrap on the pulley. At least I had one thing go right with the car staying cool now
I gotcha, hey anyone wanna help me with a new dilemma I have with my car. She starts completely fine but doesn't stay idling cuts out after a minute I'm gonna assume it may be the tps sensor one weird thing is that it has a weird temperament when idling every so often it spikes to 1100 then back to 800 but it acts like a miss almost. I have an extra tps sensor in my shed I might throw on in a little bit. A couple weeks ago the car was running fine just hot. I ended up needing to get a standard rotation water pump to get more belt wrap on the pulley. At least I had one thing go right with the car staying cool now
They do I don't no what it is but its worth looking into . Mine would read negative 30 and idle at the skyYeah bad thing is this is a a9l I had a a3m but I sold it a month ago and no Jeff I hadn't checked it I'll look up the resistance reading chart if they have one for that sensor
If the car is cold that's likely .I just ohmed it and got 17000 ohms which by the chart I found on the inter web means that it thinks my coolant is around 55 degrees ...
Well atleast that's ruled outNah the car was above 100 but I just checked another chart and it is reading marginal about 12 degrees off. I checked both act and ect and they read the same
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