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Progress Thread Project Swampfox

  • Thread starter Thread starter Project Swampfox
  • Start date Start date Apr 7, 2015
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Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
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Frederick, MD
Apr 10, 2015
#21
  • Apr 10, 2015
  • #21
mikestang63 said:
the box in the fender looks like some type of ignition spart box- if so, remove it.

I would highly recommend that you secure a chilton or subscirbe to alldata. In the interim @jrichker could you please provide this chap with some wiring and vacuum hose schematics. He's gonna need them.
Click to expand...
Yes that would probably do worlds of help for me. I'll look into buying/ downloading one asap.


And here's the unplugged wire I mean I found in the fender. Better shot. The one closest to camera.
 

Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
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Frederick, MD
Apr 10, 2015
#22
  • Apr 10, 2015
  • #22
Today I'll be getting under the car to get a better vantage on some of the wires coming from the bottom side. Also installing a new starter while I'm down there. The current starter was staying engaged for a second or two after ignition and the seller included it new in box.
 

Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
52
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Frederick, MD
Apr 10, 2015
#23
  • Apr 10, 2015
  • #23
Decided to delete Cruise control since I never use it on my other cars and doesn't seem realistic on this build. I pulled the vacuum line from the main tree, cut the vacuum to the brake pedal (will pull it when I rip the interior) and since it was just sitting in there loose, I pulled the hard cable that runs over to the passenger side. As I don't see a removable plug for the wire harness into the unit, is it safe to cut and tape them off for now?
 

jrichker

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#24
  • Apr 10, 2015
  • #24
Did you actually hear/see the engine run and drive the car?
Port St Lucie is right on the ocean, and the salt air and moisture may cause rust in unsuspected places.

NEVER cut any wiring. Fold it back out of the way and cover it with tape or wire loom.
If you want a definition of what a connector is for, include the wire colors. There are lots of connectors with similar appearances. The wire color and stripe identify the wire function and circuit.

Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info Everyone should bookmark this site.

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

O2 sensor wiring harness
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangO2Harness.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pin out
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

87-92 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif

93 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif

T5 Cutaway showing T5 internal parts
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/5_Speed_Cutaway_Illustrated.jpg

Visual comparison of the Ford Fuel Injectors, picture by TMoss:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg
 
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Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
52
10
18
Frederick, MD
Apr 10, 2015
#25
  • Apr 10, 2015
  • #25
jrichker said:
NEVER cut any wiring. Fold it back out of the way and cover it with tape or wire loom.
If you want a definition of what a connector is for, include the wire colors. There are lots of connectors with similar appearances. The wire color and stripe identify the wire function and circuit.

Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info Everyone should bookmark this site.

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

O2 sensor wiring harness
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangO2Harness.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pin out
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

87-92 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif

93 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif

T5 Cutaway showing T5 internal parts
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/5_Speed_Cutaway_Illustrated.jpg

Visual comparison of the Ford Fuel Injectors, picture by TMoss:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg
Click to expand...
Great and helpful info. Thanks @jrichker
 

elarm1

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#26
  • Apr 10, 2015
  • #26
Cool I got a neighbor! Looks like you have your work cut out for you.... Let me know if you need a hand or two
 

02 281 GT

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#27
  • Apr 11, 2015
  • #27
Project Swampfox said:

I think this is the heater tube? Here's a better shot of one of the unplugged units.
Click to expand...
Based on jrichker's schematics, it looks like the unplugged two-wire harness in that picture is for the ACT sensor. That is the only other two-wire connector in there that looks like that.
 
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Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
52
10
18
Frederick, MD
Apr 12, 2015
#28
  • Apr 12, 2015
  • #28
Getting there slowly but surely. I have an AC deleted kit on the way so I went ahead an pulled all the lines. Once I drop the other fender and pull the bumper, Ill get the condenser out. I also have a radiator in route as my current one is stock and rusted out.

I'm trying to figure out the schematics of this vacuum tree so I can rerout and hide everything. So far I have the A/c vacuum line (allows me to change the airflow in cabin?), the B/R is hooked to my fuel pressure regulator, and of course B/B to the brakes. Coming directly off the intake there's two vacuum lines side by side one big (source) and one small (goes to my waste gate) would I be able to put the source line direct to the brakes and just split the smaller line to supply the other 3? Do I even need a line on my waste gate? The concept on vacuum for some of these things is strange.
 

Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
52
10
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Frederick, MD
Apr 12, 2015
#29
  • Apr 12, 2015
  • #29
Hope you all are having a good Sunday. Not sure about you guys but it's nice a s**t here in Virginia. Pulling the AC and old rusted out radiator today. Cheers
 
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FoxMustangLvr

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#30
  • Apr 12, 2015
  • #30
Pic #3 from page 1 look to me like the purge canister electrical plug. If you do not have the purge canister then just leave it unplugged. I don't have one either. That should be the plug closest to your coolant temp sensor that plugs in on the passenger side into the heater tube near the distributor.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#31
  • Apr 12, 2015
  • #31
This is how/where your starter solenoid and vacuum tree should be located on the driver side. The big fuse you see is the 3g alternator fuse. I'm not using my vacuum tree since I'm running all my lines to my intake manifold. View attachment 533241 View attachment 533242
 
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Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
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Frederick, MD
Apr 12, 2015
#32
  • Apr 12, 2015
  • #32
FoxMustangLvr said:
This is how/where your starter solenoid and vacuum tree should be located on the driver side. The big fuse you see is the 3g alternator fuse. I'm not using my vacuum tree since I'm running all my lines to my intake manifold. View attachment 533241 View attachment 533242
Click to expand...
Hell yea man. I was stalking your thread yesterday. Looks great. I think your right, I don't see any "purge canister". I'm learning a lot from your build, going to route everything to my intake as well. I want to fab everything for now and then towards the end of the summer/ fall I'll pull the motor, shave the bay and prep for paint.
 
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Project Swampfox

Member
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Frederick, MD
Apr 12, 2015
#33
  • Apr 12, 2015
  • #33
@FoxMustangLvr where and how did you mount the ignition box?
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#34
  • Apr 13, 2015
  • #34
Project Swampfox said:
@FoxMustangLvr where and how did you mount the ignition box?
Click to expand...
I decided I'm going to mount it on the drivers side frame rail just in front of the sway bar using a modified stock coil bracket. I'll post some pictures once it's finished and mounted.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#35
  • Apr 13, 2015
  • #35
@Project Swampfox

Here is an excellent wire tuck link that helped me a lot.

ultimatefoxbody.com • View topic - Wire Hiding or Wire Tuck 101
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#36
  • Apr 13, 2015
  • #36
oops, double post
 

Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
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Frederick, MD
Apr 13, 2015
#37
  • Apr 13, 2015
  • #37
@FoxMustangLvr good looking out. That link is outstanding.
 

Project Swampfox

Member
Apr 6, 2015
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Frederick, MD
Apr 28, 2015
#38
  • Apr 28, 2015
  • #38
Hey Guys. Hope is well, since my last post I have continued to battle tucking the wires. Moving on to the firewall tonight/ tomorrow. Moving brake likes and harmess under the pinch weld. I pulled my valve covers and SC pipes to polish them and found that I have scorpion 1.6F rockers. I remember someone was asking me which ones I had. This is how she's sitting now until I finish my polish job. Although I haven't FULLY grasped the concept of some of these vacuum lines, I'm gonna start capping and relocating those lines next. I picked up these pups yesterday. And I think they should polish up nice. The tears are 10 inch although I'm not sure the backspacing. They need centercaps, bolts and stree table tires but for 300$ for the set, I can't complain. My question is, what type of blowoff valve if any should I be running with my Paxton SN2000, is the vacuum line connecting it to the manifold necessary? And how do I go about determining my current boost and adjusting it. I have yet to find a boost controller.
 
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FoxMustangLvr

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#39
  • Apr 29, 2015
  • #39
Nice progress. I found lots of multiple sized tubing sold by the foot at Ace Hardware that you could use to replace or extend your vacuum lines.

@84Ttop , he's the super charger guru.
 
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84Ttop

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#40
  • Apr 29, 2015
  • #40
No boost controller is necessary, that is strictly a turbo thing and will not apply to a centrifugal supercharger.

I would recommend a mechanical boost gauge, something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3401/overview/
This would be plumbed directly into the manifold after the throttle body

Is the car Mass Air or Speed Density? If Speed density you can use a traditional blow off valve and vent to the atmosphere, this would only be needed if the blower is producing more than 5-6 lbs of boost
If the car is Mass Air you MUST use a recirculation valve when boost pressure is over 5-6 lbs ( blow through mass air excluded ). This would get plumbed between the discharge tube and intake tube and recirculates previously metered air.
This is what I would recommend for applications that see 6-12 lbs of boost 8D001-004 | Vortech Superchargers

The only way to adjust the boost would be by changing the pulley on the blower or the pulley on the crankshaft, you must also be mindful of impeller speeds. Typically I do not recommend changing any pulleys on the SN 89,93,2000 blowers as they don't withstand the torture that today's blowers easily handle.
 
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