Thanks for the good info. It is a mass air (Im assuming as i have a MAF). It currently has a blow off have connected to the pipe between throttle body and SC. The blow off valve In turn has a small hose leading into the air intake manifold.
Thanks for the good info. It is a mass air (Im assuming as i have a MAF). It currently has a blow off have connected to the pipe between throttle body and SC. The blow off valve In turn has a small hose leading into the air intake manifold.No boost controller is necessary, that is strictly a turbo thing and will not apply to a centrifugal supercharger.
I would recommend a mechanical boost gauge, something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3401/overview/
This would be plumbed directly into the manifold after the throttle body
Is the car Mass Air or Speed Density? If Speed density you can use a traditional blow off valve and vent to the atmosphere, this would only be needed if the blower is producing more than 5-6 lbs of boost
If the car is Mass Air you MUST use a recirculation valve when boost pressure is over 5-6 lbs ( blow through mass air excluded ). This would get plumbed between the discharge tube and intake tube and recirculates previously metered air.
This is what I would recommend for applications that see 6-12 lbs of boost 8D001-004 | Vortech Superchargers
The only way to adjust the boost would be by changing the pulley on the blower or the pulley on the crankshaft, you must also be mindful of impeller speeds. Typically I do not recommend changing any pulleys on the SN 89,93,2000 blowers as they don't withstand the torture that today's blowers easily handle.
Also I won't be messing with increasing boost. I want low boost on this build. It just for "cool" factor. I plan on cruising this thing to the movies and to get icecream with the wife and to shows. I'll probably never race it.No boost controller is necessary, that is strictly a turbo thing and will not apply to a centrifugal supercharger.
I would recommend a mechanical boost gauge, something like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3401/overview/
This would be plumbed directly into the manifold after the throttle body
Is the car Mass Air or Speed Density? If Speed density you can use a traditional blow off valve and vent to the atmosphere, this would only be needed if the blower is producing more than 5-6 lbs of boost
If the car is Mass Air you MUST use a recirculation valve when boost pressure is over 5-6 lbs ( blow through mass air excluded ). This would get plumbed between the discharge tube and intake tube and recirculates previously metered air.
This is what I would recommend for applications that see 6-12 lbs of boost 8D001-004 | Vortech Superchargers
The only way to adjust the boost would be by changing the pulley on the blower or the pulley on the crankshaft, you must also be mindful of impeller speeds. Typically I do not recommend changing any pulleys on the SN 89,93,2000 blowers as they don't withstand the torture that today's blowers easily handle.
I know bro, tell me about it FML. The white line is nylon I think it's psi for the boost guage. No oil, the SC is contained lubrication. Uses trans fluid.Looks like somebody went to Home Depot for the intake pipingAnderson Power Pipe bro!!
P.S. Is that line from the SC an oil line? Where does that white line go to?
I don't think I'm going to get an Anderson though. Seems cheaper to fab my own set up out of some polished alum and joints.Looks like somebody went to Home Depot for the intake pipingAnderson Power Pipe bro!!
P.S. Is that line from the SC an oil line? Where does that white line go to?
I can see that the UPR is fully functional, but visually its kind of+1 for UPR. I forget they make them too but only for boost setups. My $ would've went to them if they had a pipe for N/A @Sharad
Are you going to pull the motor? That engine bay makes me want to barf! What's with all the rust? A lot of moisture where you are?
The picture of you holding the sensor in your left hand is your BAP sensor. You need this for your MAF sensor. There is enough wire for you to mount it lower on your firewall near your transmission tunnel. I don't have a BAP since I went with an aftermarket computer programming system that doesn't require it. Not sure what the other things are, you need to zoom out a little more so we can see what area you're in. I don't have smog on my car and deleted my thermactor solenoilds. They are located on the back side of the passenger shock tower. I'm not sure if that's what you're taking a picture of. There will be two of them close together. Are you keeping your smog stuff? EGR? Smog pump?
Ok cool. Thanks a lot.Those are your Salt and Pepper shaker connectors. From the factory the plastic clips on the top goes under the top plate of the stock manifold.
Most guys end up taking them off the plastic clip and tucking htem away back down along the firewall so they are hidden.
As requested, plus a few more you may need...
For a battery cut off switch, see Moroso Performance Products: It's your passion for racing that drives us!
is the switch Moroso Performance Products: It's your passion for racing that drives us! is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See Fordfuelinjection.com for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
Starter solenoid wiring for 86-91 Mustang
Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info Everyone should bookmark this site.
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
O2 sensor wiring harness
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangO2Harness.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif
TFI module differences & pin out
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif
87-92 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif
93 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif
T5 Cutaway showing T5 internal parts
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/5_Speed_Cutaway_Illustrated.jpg
Visual comparison of the Ford Fuel Injectors, picture by TMoss:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg
Thanks man. I might just run the line. I don't want to change up too much.Info for trunk located battery grounds and fused line for 3G is in this post from Jrichker. I purchased the 3G kit from Latemodel Resto. I've read that some people only did a ground from the battery to trunk body or grounded the battery to the quad shock mount and did NOT run an additional ground from that point to the engine block with success. Jrichker and few others will highly recommend that you run the ground from the trunk body location to the engine block with #1 or 1/0 and then from the block to the body with #4.
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