A window switch would be ideal,its just really expensive for the distributerless fords. I'm already gonna get the tuner kit on top of the n20 kit,so with a window switch its starting to get really expensive. Do you run yours with a WOT switch or a push button?cleveland said:You could always just use an rpm window switch, once you reach a preset rpm the nitrous can activate till you lift your foot off the pedal.
2000-3000rpm isnt really a bad range to activate in either, for drag racing you want that power right off launch. Granted, you need traction.
-Dan
Ok then a push button should work then if you are flipping the switch when already at WOT. Thankscleveland said:The last few times I hit the switch at the track is was just about 60 feet off the line or until I didnt sense anymore tire spin.
Once I get some drag radials out back and return to the strip I will be able to hit the switch right off the line. I should also be able to hold a higher rpm just prior to launch. I was held to only about 2100 rpms before the rear would start braking loose.
And yes, I made that switch panel to fit the rounded contours of the cup. Nothing is cut on the interior of the car except for the small removable plastic piece to allow the wiring harness/plug to pass through in the center console.
-Dan
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