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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

push button start

  • Thread starter Thread starter ryan218
  • Start date Start date Jun 7, 2007
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85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,597
223
Northern KY
Jun 8, 2007
#21
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #21
If you've replaced all that stuff then you've pretty much spent all the money that can be spent aside from buying a new key/ignition tumbler set and replacing that. If that doesn't fix it then you need to trace the wires in your steering column and figure out what's wrong with it.
 

Aliate X

Member
May 9, 2005
602
1
18
Rockland NY
Jun 8, 2007
#22
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #22
Turkey Sammich said:
Remote start is better.
Click to expand...

lol not when it starts when your working on it....was working on a ford explorer and it started with 3 of the 6 plugs in and most of the coolant hoses unplugged, it was back when they were new so we didnt know how to shut it off for like 5 mins, almost killed the motor.
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Jun 8, 2007
#23
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #23
Boss 351 said:
new ign. switch too? hmmm you have an electrical issue then... As long as the issue won't burn the car down, you'll be fine I guess... problems like that would bug the crap out of me though. I couldn't run the scantool on my car, took apart EVERY wire from the dash to the front lights and found some problems, that's fixed now.
Click to expand...

yup....it's fine with me though....im not tracing that many wires...i really dont know what it is... next is the damn brake lights... which dont work.
 

stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.
15 Year Member
Jul 6, 2006
5,232
2,652
223
gainesville
Jun 8, 2007
#24
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #24
ryan218 said:
i tried it..

put a new starter solenoid in it, ignition switch and a neutral safety switch...didn't fix it....its either i can keep throwing money so that i can start it with the key or i can get it painted...what would you chose....my paint money is not something i want to dig into.
Click to expand...

paint is pointless if you cant drive it when you want to. everyone is saying fix it right for a reason.
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Jun 8, 2007
#25
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #25
Paint won't make it go fast. In fact, paint won't make it go, PERIOD.

Ignition switches are not rocket science. If you have to use a screwdriver to turn it over, the issue is obviously a mechanical part of the ignition system and not an electrical one - usually, that means it's the lock/tumbler assembly. Spend a whopping $15 or less on a new tumbler/key, poke that sucker in there, and quit Mickey-Mousing that poor thing.
 

marine_2003

Member
Jun 6, 2005
427
0
16
Lake County, FL
Jun 8, 2007
#26
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #26
I believe that this is your problem. I am having mine replaced tomorrow. I am also tired of starting my car with a screwdriver. The part itself cost me $11.20 with tax from ford.
View attachment 382304
The part will be different depending on your year. Ford can look it up. It is the Ignition Actuator.
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Jun 8, 2007
#27
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #27
Darkwriter77 said:
Paint won't make it go fast. In fact, paint won't make it go, PERIOD.

Ignition switches are not rocket science. If you have to use a screwdriver to turn it over, the issue is obviously a mechanical part of the ignition system and not an electrical one - usually, that means it's the lock/tumbler assembly. Spend a whopping $15 or less on a new tumbler/key, poke that sucker in there, and quit Mickey-Mousing that poor thing.
Click to expand...


if you guys would read what i post you would see....i already did...didnt fix it!!!!!!!!!!

i already replaced the

and its was $10.99 at autozone..

ignition switch
starter solenoid
and the neutral safety switch....


maybe now you will see this...

it dont matter...it wont be going fast for a while..... remember its a auto vert...which will equal a DOG in the 1/4..i want it to look good and sound good before i start messing with the engine.
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
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Apache Junction, AZ
Jun 8, 2007
#28
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #28
FYI: The IGNITION SWITCH is an ELECTRICAL part; the LOCK AND TUMBLER ASSEMBLY is a MECHANICAL part. Two different things.

- The ignition switch is held on by two tamper-resistant Torx screws and has a huge multi-pin connector that plugs into it. A little metal piece (the above pictured actuator) goes from the tumbler to the switch and slides the switch from OFF to ACC, ON, or CRANK.

- The lock and tumbler is the thingy you stick your key into and physically turn.

I DID read your post, guy, and I took "switch" to mean "switch." Mellow out.
 

RsStanG1987

I shaved all my pubes playing this game.
10 Year Member
Mar 13, 2004
569
9
79
Dupont PA
Jun 8, 2007
#29
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #29
Diddnt this car run 1 week ago? Stop breaking ****..
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Jun 8, 2007
#30
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #30
RsStanG1987 said:
Diddnt this car run 1 week ago? Stop breaking ****..
Click to expand...

yours still a 4 cyl...nuff said!
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Jun 8, 2007
#31
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #31
Darkwriter77 said:
FYI: The IGNITION SWITCH is an ELECTRICAL part; the LOCK AND TUMBLER ASSEMBLY is a MECHANICAL part. Two different things.

- The ignition switch is held on by two tamper-resistant Torx screws and has a huge multi-pin connector that plugs into it. A little metal piece (the above pictured actuator) goes from the tumbler to the switch and slides the switch from OFF to ACC, ON, or CRANK.

- The lock and tumbler is the thingy you stick your key into and physically turn.

I DID read your post, guy, and I took "switch" to mean "switch." Mellow out.
Click to expand...

my bad...ok ill go get one and see if it fixes my problem..
 
N

niklid05

New Member
Aug 20, 2004
140
0
0
Kutztown PA 19530
Jun 8, 2007
#32
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #32
ryan218 said:
yours still a 4 cyl...nuff said!
Click to expand...

that starts with a key
 
T

TheUser

Active Member
Jul 25, 2003
1,859
1
36
Springfield, MO
Jun 8, 2007
#33
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #33
What exactly are you doing w/ the screwdriver? Are you jamming it in the key hole or are you jumping the starter solenoid with it?

Do you have 12v with the key on at the little red wire that slides over the screw on the starter solenoid? If not, that may be your problem.

If you'd rather use your push button, go for it. I wouldn't wanna do that very long, so maybe check out what I said when you're tired of that.

Good Luck!
 

ryan218

In just 10 years, I'll be old enough to drive!!!!
Dec 28, 2005
0
1
38
columbus ohio
Jun 8, 2007
#34
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #34
TheUser said:
What exactly are you doing w/ the screwdriver? Are you jamming it in the key hole or are you jumping the starter solenoid with it?

Do you have 12v with the key on at the little red wire that slides over the screw on the starter solenoid? If not, that may be your problem.

If you'd rather use your push button, go for it. I wouldn't wanna do that very long, so maybe check out what I said when you're tired of that.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

jumping hte starter solenoid

yes i have 12V with the key on
 

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
413
0
16
Morganton, NC
Jun 8, 2007
#35
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #35
This gives me an idea.... Before I break out the wiring diagrams, anyone know if it's possible to have a toggle switch perform the same function as the turning of the key, and then use the push buttom to start it? Well my real question is, would it be easy.. lol.
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Jun 8, 2007
#36
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #36
I don't imagine it would be too hard, really - you'd just have to splice in a momentary switch between the two wires that the stock switch joins when you move it to the CRANK position, and another switch for the primary ignition (that gives juice to the fuel pump, ECM, etc.).

As for whether that would be a smart idea at all from an anti-theft standpoint ... ummm, no. I mean, not unless you religiously carry and use several Club type devices in the car (one on the clutch/brake pedal, one on the steering wheel, etc.) and/or some other security measures. Otherwise, any ol' yahoo could just hop in the driver's seat, flip a switch, push a button, and speed away. Your car would be Gone in FAR Less Than 60 seconds.

And another thing you'd have to consider is what to do with the stock column where the ignition switch went - you'd have to fab some kind of a column wrap or something, otherwise you'll just have this silly stock switch sitting there, doing nothing.
 

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
413
0
16
Morganton, NC
Jun 8, 2007
#37
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #37
Well my car doesn't have any door locks, they where shaved, anyone can get in when ever they want too. I was thinking about a couple battery cut off switchs for anti theft, after all, my car is primered 4 banger, not to many suspect anything of it.

I am mounting a bank of switchs on the cage after it is installed for the fan/fuel/water pump and other things of that nature... I figured I would mount the push start there, and the ignition toggle somewhere under the dash.


Edit: I am going with a Comp Engineering steering column/grant wheel.
 

Darkwriter77

Resident Ranting Negative Nancy
5 Year Member
Jul 1, 2005
314
281
134
Apache Junction, AZ
Jun 8, 2007
#38
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #38
I suppose if you did up the dash all fancy, you could wire up a row of switches a-la a Pro 5.0 class drag car that you can flip on and then hit the "FIRE" or "IGNITION" momentary switch/button at the end of it ... y'know, if you wanna give your interior the feel of an aircraft cockpit. (Be sure to yell "CONTACT!" before you hit the last button, for added effect.)
 

Hickfied

Member
Nov 9, 2005
413
0
16
Morganton, NC
Jun 8, 2007
#39
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #39
lol.... I was trying to figure out a way to mount the switchs with taste while retaining the stock dash... But I don't see it happening.... I think I am just gonna run bars from both sides of the cage, and make a sheetmetal dash, and mount everything to it....

I remember laying out the wiring diagram over the winter... I think it came up to 14 toggle switchs after everything was done.
 

795.0pacecar

lover of pudgy polygamists
Jul 11, 2003
480
0
17
Senoia, GA
Jun 8, 2007
#40
  • Jun 8, 2007
  • #40
I swear, every time I stumble into a ryan saga thread, i get a little bit dumber. I need to start paying attention to who the thread starter is before i click on it.
 
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