has ANYONE bought and put this -->Ford Performance Cylinder Heads M-6049-X307 cylinder head in a 1994 ford mustang non milled block and head from summit racing? if so what was your push rod length i know i should measure it but before i waste my time i was wondering if anyone has done this before. i have the 1994 ford mustang gt stock cam stock lifters just need to know what you used for the gasket and your push rod length. i will of course double check just need a little help
Push Rod Length For Ford Performance Cylinder Heads M-6049-x307 (gt40)
- Thread starter tyboudreau
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Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
First off - Welcome to the Forum! As far as your question, you are going to have to measure. There is no way around it. Another question for you, and not trying to be rude or a smart ass at all - why keep the stock cam and lifters if you plan on going with the better flowing heads? This would be a case of over head / under camming.
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
Also, you may want to consider saving for a complete kit like this: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6049D-K/Trickflow-50l-Top-End-Engine-Kit-Mustang-94-95
It will save you alot of headaches.
It will save you alot of headaches.
no i know where you are coming from im just making 4 different plans of action as far as the build. i want to run the f303 cam on a cobra intake with the gt40 heads from summit and then when i get the money put in a kenne bell or vortech SC. hey quick question as well, do you think i can get the cam and heads in and rocker arms torqued without pulling the engine because i have no time to pull the motor my free time is pretty much 4 day weekends i get randomly and its my daily. thanks for the link to the kit btw
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
Yes it's possible to do the head and cam swap with the block still in the car. Pleanty of people do it. I personally like working on that type of stuff with the engine on a stand though. Your back will be sore after all that bending over. Keep in mind you will need to drain and remove the radiator to get the cam out and in. One of the bigger headaches is getting the timing cover to oil pan front seal to properly seat with the oil pan still on. You have to drop it down an inch or so. Other things to think about, how many miles on the engine? It's never a bad idea to change the oil pump out if it's getting up there. You mentioned forced induction, what are your goals HP wise? You need to check the cylinder walls with the heads off to make sure they, the rings and pistons are in good shape before throwing boost on them. You mentioned it's your daily driver. This is where Murphys Law kicks in. It's a 22 year old car. Stuff WILL go wrong! Expect bolt heads to shear off, connectors to break, etc... Trust me. Been there and done that numerous times. In theory it's a straight up swap, but be ready to want to set the thing on fire numerous times, tools to fly across the garage, and LOTS of 4 letter words to by used LOL!!!
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
right now the car has 78,000 miles on it. im looking at between 400-450 with stock pistons and rods. but you didnt tell me how ill be able to tighten the rocker arms with the engine in the car haha
Dan_Soprano
Mod Dude
its easy, pull the valve cover off and torque them down or set the proper preload on after market rockers... maybe I don't understand your concern...
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Stock rocker arms torqued to 18-25 ft lbs
There is a tech thread with a pdf file in the 5.0 tech/how to froums
There is a tech thread with a pdf file in the 5.0 tech/how to froums
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