Putting my engine together

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silverlx50

Active Member
Apr 4, 2007
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Love the GT40 intake and I run the same heads on my motor now. I hope you have better luck then I did with an S Trim on my factory block...
IMG_20191129_085907_065.jpg
 
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Reactions: Noobz347

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,948
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Mililani, Hawaii
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Old one out. New one will go in tomorrow.

I really envy you guys living on the big rock. I had to order valve covers, mine just would not work. Those $130 trick flow covers that you guys get shipped free.....$209 to me. That is $79 dollars more I have to pay for the same thing. It sucks.
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
1,010
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Wow, that does suck !
But in the winter when I'm living on a frozen rock I'd love to witch places with you.
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
33,071
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Massachusetts
Pro's and cons.

Next time I look out my window and see 24" of white stuff and 10 degrees on the thermometer, ill trade places
 

7991LXnSHO

Now I want a 10 year badge
Sep 1, 2010
2,569
420
124
Kearney, NE
And they say I am a 'collector'!!
I do wish the ac hose didn't cut across the top corner, I've thought about getting the hose modified with a nice right angle to clean it up, that shouldn't effect the efficiency. RIght?
A gentle bend 90 deg fitting instead of a hard right should be fine.
 

Mstng93SSP

You have a nice rear end there Dave.
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,948
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Mililani, Hawaii
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Engine is in. Looks like poop with those old valve covers. My new ones arrive tomorrow. Primed the oil, pressured up the fuel lines and checked for leaks maybe tomorrow or Thursday I will get it started. Any advice on break in or just start it, drive it and don't beat on it for a while?
 

silverlx50

Active Member
Apr 4, 2007
105
42
38
I know you didn't go with motor from Woody but I followed his instructions as seen here:

"As for the actual break in, unless you have had specific instructions from me in regards to your engine, keep it simple. Run a good oil filter. I have used an FL1A for 15 years with much success, I ALWAYS run a large magnet on the outside of the oil filter, (it obviously won't fall off ) this will keep any small particles in the filter that may have otherwise gotten by.

Again unless I have given you specific instructions, run any name brand conventional 10w30 motor oil. I always do two quick oil changes, about 75-100 miles apart, then cut the filters open to make sure there is nothing in there. After 1000-1500 miles, feel free to run any oil you are comfortable with, whether it be conventional or synthetic.

Now onto the piston rings, the way we hone nowadays and the rings we use, rings are typically seated within minutes, after a few full heat cycles, the rings are surely seated. Take precaution to minimize washing the cylinders with gas on initial startup, if all goes well on the first start, run the engine for a few heat cycles. Feel free to do a leakdown and you will see the rings have seated almost immediately. Once you are comfortable, by all means go ahead and start banging gears. If there is a problem with the engine it will rear it's ugly head quickly. I don't follow or buy into the 1000-2000 mile break in theory, I run my engines hard right from the get-go, and my engines are no different than the one I built for you.

The above guide is strictly a guide, your engine we built may not adhere to the above steps, BUT you will know this because we will talk about your specific engine and I will tell you what steps to follow, but the above guide is a good method to use and has treated me and 100's of my engine customers well."
 

revhead347

My mission is to out curmudgeon you
15 Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
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Acworth, GA
I've always run the Purolator Pure One filters. My engine is now 10 years old, and the oil comes out of it looking the same as it went in.

Kurt
 
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