Quality Nitrous Kit

[Jack's95gt]

I purchased a Cold Fusion wet nitrous kit and been having some problems. The fuel solenoid passed, I got the bottle filled and all the nitrous leaked out the gauge that they provided. I didn't get a chance to try it out. The gauge screws into the side of the bottle valve and it's always got pressure on it.

I bought a Nitro Express bottle warmer and the quality seem way better than the Cold Fusion stuff.

What's brand is a good quality in nitrous kits?

 

[revhead347]

Cold Fusion is junk. That will blow your engine up. However, that doesn't mean you can't use some of the parts off of the kit. Toss the solenoid right in the trash. It's a rebuilt piece of crap. You can keep the bottle as a spare and some of the lines and stuff for later use. This is the tried and true kit for a 5.0 Mustang.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-5-..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item1db521513&vxp=mtr

You can find one used usually for around $250. Or you can buy some of the parts individually and modify the cold fusion kit to work with this setup. If you do choose to buy the parts seperately, I would recommend using NX solenoids instead of NOS ones. They are better quality.

Kurt

 

[srtthis]

depends how much your willing to spend... you can get some fulton 'noids and some bad ass bottle valves that are out there with speed tech quickies but your going to have a nitrous kit worth more then your car.

i prefer NOS parts over everything else...

 

[revhead347]

I tried to look up the NX bottle heater you have. Damn they are proud of their stuff. I can put together a bottle heater for a lot less money than that.

Kurt

 

[srtthis]

I tried to look up the NX bottle heater you have. Damn they are proud of their stuff. I can put together a bottle heater for a lot less money than that.

Kurt

NX is proud of all there stuff

we have a TNT bottle heater in the race car a NOS as a back up and some other one for a back up to the back up... all 3 are exactly the same.

if you want a good nitrous set up at a good price talk to dave@nitrousoutlet. tell him derek@amazon sent you!

 

[revhead347]

Nitrous Outlet has some good stuff, but I can't figure out how their kit adds the fuel. I'm more biased towards the NOS setup. It's a no brainer no fail system, and it's cheaper than the Nitrous Outlet kit.

I buy most of my parts through archeat, or dynotunenitrous.

Kurt

 

[srtthis]

what do you mean add the fuel?

 

[revhead347]

It's not like the 05115 kit. I imagine it just shoots in front of the MAF like the Cold Fusion kit. I'm not a fan of that setup.

http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product.asp?category=15&section=41&group=853&product=3999

Kurt

 

[srtthis]

That's a dry kit fuel has to be injected with the injectors. I'm not a fan of these set ups. I won't spray a car unless it's a wet kit. I'll get it running right on motor first pull x amount of timing for a given shot plus extra for safety get the air fuel right on the jug adjusting it with the fuel jet. Then start throwing timing back to it till the plugs have a good timing mark on them

 

[revhead347]

Oh, I wasn't even thinking about a wet kit, because he had a dry kit already. I only trust the 05115 dry kit setup. The other dry methods are kind of ridiculous. For a small shot (less than say 175) I would definately go with the dry kit myself. There aren't any fail safes on the wet kit, whereas the dry kit is pretty much idiot proof so long as you follow the instructions when you put it in.

Kurt

 

[srtthis]

What do you mean no fail safes?

Anything you do with a dry kit can be done with a wet kit.

 

[revhead347]

What do you mean no fail safes?

Anything you do with a dry kit can be done with a wet kit.

Eh, not in this case. With a wet kit there is no way to ensure it's adding fuel. Bad wire, jammed solenoid, one bad connection and the fuel solenoid may not open, but the nitrous solenoid still will. With the 05115, it only injects the nitrous after the system checks that the fuel is being added. It's extremely unlikely that you will ever get nitrous without fuel, almost impossible. I would say that's the biggest danger with nitrous is a malfunction where it adds nitrous and not fuel. You also use jets to adjust fuel and nitrous ratios just like a wet kit, so it's just as easy to tune. I would say with the prices being so close, you are better off just throwing a little extra money for the dry kit.

Kurt

 

[srtthis]

i can understand things can happen but you'll NEVER convince me a dry kit is the way to do it... even on a small hit

when you tune a nitrous car you tune the car on motor first. get the most out of it on motor.
say your running 32* of timing on motor with a 13.2:1 air fuel roughly
then its on to the nitrous
you go with say a 150 shot
everyone says rule of thumb is 2* for every 50. (if we told you how much we spray and how little we pull youd call me a liar) so we will stick with that for this. so your going to want your timing out the back in your computer to come out to be 32* base minus the 6* for the nitrous then add maybe 2 for safety so you want to come out the back with 24*.
been awhile since ive used a single nozzle so these numbers may be off
your jet are a 62N/35F but your air fuel is 11.5
pull your fuel jet and make it a 33. make another pull air fuel is say 12.0
go to a 32 and it gets your air fuel to a 12.3 (again we run it much leaner)

now the air fuel is right... you make the adjustments to the timing to get it where the car likes what its doing. be it on a dyno or on the track.

you dont make any fuel adjustments to the tune in the car itself. everything other then timing is done on the nitrous system.

im sure some people wont agree with me and some will but this is what works for us and we use not 1 but 2 huge hits

 

[Noobz347]

i can understand things can happen but you'll NEVER convince me a dry kit is the way to do it... even on a small hit

when you tune a nitrous car you tune the car on motor first. get the most out of it on motor.
say your running 32* of timing on motor with a 13.2:1 air fuel roughly
then its on to the nitrous
you go with say a 150 shot
everyone says rule of thumb is 2* for every 50. (if we told you how much we spray and how little we pull youd call me a liar) so we will stick with that for this. so your going to want your timing out the back in your computer to come out to be 32* base minus the 6* for the nitrous then add maybe 2 for safety so you want to come out the back with 24*.
been awhile since ive used a single nozzle so these numbers may be off
your jet are a 62N/35F but your air fuel is 11.5
pull your fuel jet and make it a 33. make another pull air fuel is say 12.0
go to a 32 and it gets your air fuel to a 12.3 (again we run it much leaner)

now the air fuel is right... you make the adjustments to the timing to get it where the car likes what its doing. be it on a dyno or on the track.

you dont make any fuel adjustments to the tune in the car itself. everything other then timing is done on the nitrous system.

im sure some people wont agree with me and some will but this is what works for us and we use not 1 but 2 huge hits

I fall firmly into the ameteur category for nitrous but it's always been a compound system (nitrous ontop of boost). The method I've used, is almost EXACTLY what is described here. I was fortunate enough to see a fellow Stanger's motor end badly when a window switch failed to make the injectors (tuner) ramp up fuel for a 150 shot. Made me very gun-shy about dry systems.

 

[srtthis]

I fall firmly into the ameteur category for nitrous but it's always been a compound system (nitrous ontop of boost). The method I've used, is almost EXACTLY what is described here. I was fortunate enough to see a fellow Stanger's motor end badly when a window switch failed to make the injectors (tuner) ramp up fuel for a 150 shot. Made me very gun-shy about dry systems.

i think its safe to say i know nothing about nitrous! LOL

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, there's always going to be an argument between the dry guys and the wet guys, and we can go on all day. I know there are certain circumstances where you have to use a wet, and most of the danger myths about wet kits are over rated, like the puddling in the intake thing. And I know theoretically the dry kit should atomize the fuel better, but in the real world it doesn't seem to make any difference. That being said, I don't see how there is any advantage to the wet kit on a small shot. I don't see why you posted a whole thing about tuning either. That's basically how I tuned my car. I put a .057" jet in the nitrous and started with a conservative jet on the fuel (can't remember exactly what it was). It was running a little rich, so I put a bigger jet in the fuel side (backwards on a dry kit)t to lean it out. I got the mixture right, then set the timing. I started by pulling 6 degrees of timing, and tuned it in about 5 degrees of timing. I don't see how it makes any difference.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

Repost

 

[revhead347]

I fall firmly into the ameteur category for nitrous but it's always been a compound system (nitrous ontop of boost). The method I've used, is almost EXACTLY what is described here. I was fortunate enough to see a fellow Stanger's motor end badly when a window switch failed to make the injectors (tuner) ramp up fuel for a 150 shot. Made me very gun-shy about dry systems.

I don't see how the window switch could do that unless it was wired incorrectly. The window switch should be wired to the ground side of the primary control relay for the nitrous. If it fails, everything works or nothing works.

Kurt

 

[Noobz347]

I don't see how the window switch could do that unless it was wired incorrectly. The window switch should be wired to the ground side of the primary control relay for the nitrous. If it fails, everything works or nothing works.

Kurt

The way I understand it, there were two switches. One activated the solenoid for the nitrous while the other told the tune in the PCM that nitrous was activated. The tuner was unaware that nitrous was activated. POP

 

[srtthis]

Yeah, there's always going to be an argument between the dry guys and the wet guys, and we can go on all day. I know there are certain circumstances where you have to use a wet, and most of the danger myths about wet kits are over rated, like the puddling in the intake thing. And I know theoretically the dry kit should atomize the fuel better, but in the real world it doesn't seem to make any difference. That being said, I don't see how there is any advantage to the wet kit on a small shot. I don't see why you posted a whole thing about tuning either. That's basically how I tuned my car. I put a .057" jet in the nitrous and started with a conservative jet on the fuel (can't remember exactly what it was). It was running a little rich, so I put a bigger jet in the fuel side (backwards on a dry kit)t to lean it out. I got the mixture right, then set the timing. I started by pulling 6 degrees of timing, and tuned it in about 5 degrees of timing. I don't see how it makes any difference.

Kurt

where do you run a fuel jet on a dry kit? ive never messed with dry stuff the idea of pumping one with out the other boggles my mind.