Drivetrain Question on clutch cable/ quadrant/firewall adjuster?

Gs1987GT · Nov 14, 2019

Good afternoon,

I have to replace my speedo cable and will be replacing the clutch in the spring, so while the seat is out, I figured I'd replace the clutch cable.

Prior, someone installed a Steeda double hook quadrant on my car. Cable appears orginal. It has an unknown firewall adjuster on it. See photo.

What clutch cable should I get? (Steeda adjustable? )Any idea if the firewall adjuster is any good or who made it? (has loose screws I have to address).

Thanks for your help
- Greg

FastDriver · Nov 14, 2019

A firewall adjuster is a firewall adjuster. I've tried quite a few and do not favor any over others, perhaps with the small nuance that some adjusters have slightly better grips that are easier to force around. The fact that yours is already there and free is reason enough not to buy another.

On the cable, Maximum Motorsports is the highest quality cable complete with a dust boot at the clutch end to keep it internally clean. The steeda adjustable is cheaper and equal to it in every other respect that I can feel, except that it has another adjustable end at the clutch fork and no boot. With a firewall adjuster, you don't need that, but it does allow for even more adjustment. And, since it reaches out a little further and you can take off the end, you never have to pull the clutch fork forward to insert it. Also, the steeda, with it's huge adjustability will work with any clutch quadrant, but the non-adjustable MM requires a compatible quadrant.

I have both on my cars and a spare of both in the garage. So, I feel like I can fairly represent both, whereas many out there will say MM is the only way to go, because they do not have experience with the Steeda. One thing I can tell you, though, is that if you go cheap out on a parts store clutch cable, you're going to regret it. They stretch out, making your adjustment setting inconsistent, and they start to fail and bind up making the pedal really tough to push. It can make you hate driving your car.

Anyways, either of those will make you happy. I am not aware of another non-OEM cable that will hold up without stretching or internally binding.

Edit:
One more point to make... The quadrant you choose can impact your clutch cable decision. A single hook quadrant may not be designed to accommodate both types (adjustable & non-adjustable) of cable. Take a look at the attached picture I took of the page that came with the quadrant I most recently bought from Promotion Powertrain. I think you said you have the steeda quadrant, which if memory serves is a double hook. So, I believe you'll be ok with either type of cable. Just wanted you to be aware in case you run into an issue.

More on quadrants:
Some, like the old UPR Triple Hook, have a reduced radius, which makes the clutch pedal easier to press, but it also reduces the total amount of cable that it can take up if the pedal is positioned the same way. Others retain the stock radius. When I switched to a twin-disc clutch, I was having disengagement issues and switched back to a stock radius to make sure that wasn't my issue. It wasn't, but since twin discs have a soft pedal anyways, I was happy with the stock radius quadrant pictured below.

Gs1987GT · Nov 15, 2019

Ok, thanks for that great reply, I really appreciate it.

Yes, I have the steeda double hook quadrant. If the firewall Adjuster I have is ok, then I'll keep that and just buy the steeda cable. That's the way I was thinking.

I believe with the steeda cable you have to use the "longer" hook on the quadrant.... correct? (The one that is farthest from the firewall)

Thanks again.

FastDriver · Nov 15, 2019

Yep, that seems right to me, from the diagram. I guess, based on the picture I embedded, it will be optimal to put it on the farthest hook, but it's not a "must". The steeda will work on either hook. When you get under the car and see how much adjustment you have on the clutch fork side, you'll see what I mean. The game now is functionality & then preference. If it works and you like it more on the 2nd hook, then do it. Just make sure it fully disengages when pressed and that the preload is ~5lbs or less when the pedal is up.

Gs1987GT · Nov 16, 2019

Sounds good. Thank you. Whoever put the quadrant in this car and the firewall adjuster looks to have simply used the OEM cable.

I pulled the carpet back and I assume the same person notched out the insulation trying to get more travel out of the clutch pedal. I did note you have to have the pedal buried or it will grind going into reverse.

So it's either an adjustment issue or a clutch issue so well see. It's got a noisy throw out bearing so I have to drop the trans in the spring so that's when the clutch components and leaking rear main engine seal will be replaced.

This may resolve the engagement issue for now at least. I ordered the cable yesterday so that'll be a pending project for me

Thanks again.

FastDriver · Nov 16, 2019

Add a bit of preload and see if the TO bearing squeak goes away. It may or may not, but it's worth a try. OEM (actual ford) cables are good, but they still wear, eventually.

That notch in your insulation my just be due to the quadrant installation. Sometimes the pedal won't quite line up without the notch in the insulation, which might be needed to get the stocker quadrant out.

jrichker · Nov 16, 2019

The following applies to aftermarket clutch cables and quadrants.
Adjustable cables are used when the plastic quadrant is replaced with an aftermarket metal quadrant. The downside to this setup is that you have to get under the car to adjust the clutch. Add a firewall adjuster to an adjustable cable setup and you can spare yourself from getting back under the car to make any fine adjustment that you desire.

The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs. preload on the clutch cable. With a non-adjustable cable and a firewall adjuster, the cable needs to go in the second hook of the quadrant. Single hook quadrants used with a firewall adjuster may make the clutch too tight, causing it to slip. The possible exception to this is the Maximum Motorsports cable which is a bit longer to make it work with a single hook quadrant.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt

Gs1987GT · Nov 17, 2019

FastDriver said:
Add a bit of preload and see if the TO bearing squeak goes away. It may or may not, but it's worth a try. OEM (actual ford) cables are good, but they still wear, eventually.

That notch in your insulation my just be due to the quadrant installation. Sometimes the pedal won't quite line up without the notch in the insulation, which might be needed to get the stocker quadrant out.

Ok thanks I'll give that a shot. I really didn't think about that as a possibility so I appreciate the thoughts. I'll get it where I think it needs to be once I get the steeda cable and then see what I have. Good thought, thanks again

Gs1987GT · Nov 17, 2019

jrichker said:
The following applies to aftermarket clutch cables and quadrants.
Adjustable cables are used when the plastic quadrant is replaced with an aftermarket metal quadrant. The downside to this setup is that you have to get under the car to adjust the clutch. Add a firewall adjuster to an adjustable cable setup and you can spare yourself from getting back under the car to make any fine adjustment that you desire.

The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs. preload on the clutch cable. With a non-adjustable cable and a firewall adjuster, the cable needs to go in the second hook of the quadrant. Single hook quadrants used with a firewall adjuster may make the clutch too tight, causing it to slip. The possible exception to this is the Maximum Motorsports cable which is a bit longer to make it work with a single hook quadrant.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt

Thank you sir. I really appreciate your thoughts. Your a wealth of knowledge and I respect you and your posts here. If the problem can't be diagnosed after going though one of your responses...I wouldn't know where to go next... that's for sure. Thanks again for your help and contributions here.

jrichker · Nov 17, 2019

Gs87GT said:
Thank you sir. I really appreciate your thoughts. Your a wealth of knowledge and I respect you and your posts here. If the problem can't be diagnosed after going though one of your responses...I wouldn't know where to go next... that's for sure. Thanks again for your help and contributions here.

I am glad to be of service, these cars are fun but can be a bit challenging, I hope to help others enjoy their rides by simplifying some of the challenges...

Gs1987GT · Nov 18, 2019

jrichker said:
I am glad to be of service, these cars are fun but can be a bit challenging, I hope to help others enjoy their rides by simplifying some of the challenges...

Yes you do just that. No question. Thanks again.

Drivetrain Question on clutch cable/ quadrant/firewall adjuster?

Gs1987GT

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FastDriver

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Gs1987GT

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Gs1987GT

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