Question on Ford Engine

Funhog · May 26, 2005

I have been researching some modifications for my 92 LX. I want a new engine sometime down the road and I came across the 5.0L/302 with 345hp (code M6007XB3). I was wondering if anyone knows anything about this engine, if it is good or bad etc? Also, if I do get this engine, what other upgrades could I do with it? I planned on getting the gt-40 intake, 24# injectors, new 1 3/4 shorty headers, and electric fan. Let me hear what you would do?

squeeeg · May 26, 2005

I believe the engine you are talking about is the FRPP GT 40 crate engine. It is similar to the explorer and 93 cobra engines.

v8only · May 26, 2005

squeeeg said:
I believe the engine you are talking about is the FRPP GT 40 crate engine. It is similar to the explorer and 93 cobra engines.

IDK, the explorer and 93 cobra engines had closer to 250-280 horse. THis engine probably has a lot more.

squeeeg · May 27, 2005

It isn't exatly the same as the other engines. The engine in questions has SVO GT40 alum heads and valvetrain and is just a 302 botton end. The 345 HP is at the flywheel not the tires.

Funhog · May 27, 2005

Does it seem like a quality engine? And would it work well with the other mods I have listed in the original post?

v8only · May 27, 2005

what is the cost on it? I've seen the cost on those, and imo, for the price you pay, it's not worth it. That engine, by the way doesn't even have forged pistons.

For the amount of money you spend on that engine, you'll have a few other options with other repitable engine builders. Shop around, do your homework before arriving on a final choice.

Funhog · May 27, 2005

The engine is roughly 3200. I do not know that much about the quality of engines or what is in them and so forth. What are some good engine builders or engines that I can get that will have over 300hp at the wheels? I really dont wanna spend over 3500 for an engine.

bt15 · May 27, 2005

I have one of those engines in my Twister II for now. Some things to consider are 1) It's a brand new engine with everything from the oil pan to the heads already included. 2) You will need to supply your own: Intake, Fuel Delivery System, and Ignition regardless of your application 3) If you put it in a Fox body, you'll need to replace the water pump and oil pan with a Fox-compatible set (your original stuff will bolt right up) 4) If you go carbureted, you'll need to swap out the timing cover (and add the eccentric to your cam) if you use a mechanical pump 5) If your belt system is not compatible with the crate engine's, you'll also need to swap out the harmonic damper to provide for clearance, etc.

I'm quite happy with the performance, and I'm certain durability is going to be good (right now at about 6,000 miles) since it was built and test-run at the Ford factory. The only drawbacks are 1) the time / effort / cost associated with making the engine work in a Fox body 2) The relatively dated technology associated with the GT40 heads and the B-cam 3) Not a forged bottom end 4) Relatively high compression and cam profile necessitates high octane fuel in my application.

On the good side, it really does run strongly, and sounds great. It pulls a solid 300 rwhp with my Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Crate Demon 650 carb, Crane Street / Strip Distributor and HI-6 Ignition. It's also worth considering that I get over 20 MPG in and around Washington, DC, and that's nothing to sneeze at, either.

If you're willing to do a little part-swapping on your own, it's hard to beat for the money. For about twice as much, you can have a sweet stroked, forged engine with intake and ignition. It's just a matter of cash and desire.

Good luck!

Funhog · May 27, 2005

bt15 - What are the pros to having forged pistons? Are the pistons that come with the engine bad? And if some of the original parts can bolt right on then I will def do that. For the intake I plan on getting the gt40 or cobra. What other parts would I need to put in? You mentioned something about the fuel delivery system..I'm sorta confused on that. Id rather get a new engine than a stroker etc. Thanks for the help..seems like I am in over my head

bt15 · May 28, 2005

If you're ever looking at running a power adder (forced induction or nitrous), non-forged pistons and rods are much more susceptible to failure from detonation. The hypereutectic pistons that come in the engine you're considering are more than enough for a normally aspirated engine up to around 6,500 rpm (on occasion). If you're not gonna do a power adder, then the hyper-u pistons are fine.

On the fuel delivery subject, I was referring to injectors versus carb, and then the attendant components to make that work (intake and injectors / carb). The GT40 or Cobra intake will work great with even just stock injectors. I would recommend considering improvements to your ignition system, fuel delivery system (to include pump), exhaust (aftermarket headers, mufflers) and a numerically higher rear gearset. If your budget will only allow one of these other mods, go for the gears. If you're running a 5-speed, a new set of rear gears will really take best advantage of the B-cam and the improved upper end breathing capability of the GT-40 heads. If you're running an auto, you'll probably want to stick with the E-cammed crate engine for driveability.

The short answer is that everything that comes stock on a Mustang will work with these crate engines, you just have to move the parts over to the new engine. Spend a few extra dollars on decent gaskets, take your time, use a torque wrench to check all your work, and you can get a very reliable Ford crate engine in a fox body on the cheap. If you spend a few more dollars to have your gears replaced and add some hipo intake / exhaust, you can have a great set up for next to nothing.

Good luck! PM if you need more help.

bt15 · May 28, 2005

Just noticed the 3.55 and B&M shift kit in your sig. From that I'm presuming you're running an automatic. The E-cammed crate engine will knock a couple of ponies off the top of your horsepower numbers, but will provide for near-stock driveability with your setup. The B-cammed kit would be less easy to tune for street use without a higher-than-stock rpm stall convertor, and you're really only giving up a couple of high end horses with the E-cam over the B-cam, anyway. It will idle nicely and drive great, improve your likelihood of passing emissions (if that's a concern), and be easier on your stock tranny.

So, consider the E-cammed crate engine as your first choice, unless you're willing to upgrade your stall convertor. The 3.55s will be OK with the E-cam kit, too. If you move to the B-cam kit, try 4.10s with a 2,500 rpm stall... you'll love 'em!

Killer50stang · May 28, 2005

Funhog said:
The engine is roughly 3200.

Drop that man! Go for a 347 Stroker. What I would do is sell all the EFI stuff and go carb on a 347. You'd be pushing much more than you would be with the FRPPP Crate motor and at a lesser price or about the same. I've seen strokers for around $2500....(my future motor). They have forged pistons and the works for a strong motor. Ask any Stang guy, this motor is strong!!

DMAN302 · May 28, 2005

New short block from summit..1200..Edelbrock (I'm parital to em)/AFR heads 1300..TFS-1 cam 150..pretty much same price as the crate. Put all the components required in the car and the price will be quite close with the one you BUILD being a much better runner.

twolo4u2c2 · May 28, 2005

ok heres my .02 point 5 cents. I was in the same boat and I opted for the 347 stroker. I guy in texas built mine for 1699.00 to my door. It has the KB hypers and So far it has 2500 miles and is so strong its hard to believe. I'm going to the all ford nats in carlise next weekend to see what the dyno says. Cant wait to see what those gt40p's will do. If I had to do it again.....347 all the way again.

Funhog · May 28, 2005

I appreciate everyones help. I really do not want to go carb or short block. As I said earlier, I really do not know that much about cars, so for me to get a short block and build it is pushing it. I would love to say I built this and that but I do not have the knowledge.
As for the engine I have been talking about, if the pistons that come with it are fine, then I think I might stick with that. I did have some plans for a procharger P1SC, but I think that engine should be fine without it. I'm not looking at racing it just a daily driver with a little more behind it than stock. As for the injectors and fuel, I would go at least 24# if not 30# and I believe I already have a modded fuel pump (at least thats what the guy told me when I bought it). I am not sure if this helps, but I can hear the fuel pump when I drive it. I already have shorty headers, but I would get larger shorty headers, 1 3/4. My exhaust by the time I would get the engine would prob be rusted, so I would get a new O/R H pipe and I would want 3" Flowmasters. Would the 3.55's be ok for the engine or should I up it and get 3.73's? Also, when you mention gaskets, are you refering to the ones btwn the headers and engine, or are there more?

bmo37 · May 28, 2005

Killer50stang said:
Drop that man! Go for a 347 Stroker. What I would do is sell all the EFI stuff and go carb on a 347. You'd be pushing much more than you would be with the FRPPP Crate motor and at a lesser price or about the same. I've seen strokers for around $2500....(my future motor). They have forged pistons and the works for a strong motor. Ask any Stang guy, this motor is strong!!

thats what the shortblock costs, add another 3000 and you have a long block

Funhog · May 28, 2005

331 vs 347

I have been looking at some stroker engines. I came across the 331 and 347. The one website says that the 331 has longer durability due to the better ratio. Is this true? I found a 331 with what seems to be everything I need to just take out my old engine and put this one in. Here is the link http://www.fordcobraengines.com/331FITKY.htm Will this engine be ok for a daily driver? Also, it mentions at the bottom of the page that an upgrade would be march pulleys. I already have march u/d pullys sitting in my room, would they work?

bmo37 · May 28, 2005

well that was the case back in the day when the oil ring on a 347 intsected the wrist pin which would cause oil loss over time and prematurely wear the engine. But most manufactures now have fixed that issue and changed the design.

maverick0716 · May 28, 2005

Funhog - You won't need any more than 24# injectors if you buy that engine. Also 1 3/4 headers would be overkill. Just saving you from buying uneeded parts. One more thing, the 345 hp version has the E303 cam (slightly higher rpm and better idle) not the B303. I think for a person that is not too knowledgeable about cars, a crate engine is a great way to go.

Funhog · May 29, 2005

stroker

I am now looking into strokers. I read a lot of threads about the 331 vs 347. I believe the 331 would be more suitable for me. Now I need to know where to look for the 331. Aftering reading threads, it seems like DSS isn't that great of a company..where else can I look? I emailed Rick91GT and am waiting for his response but I think it is good to have a lot of options.

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