Question regarding Eastwood Products and Body Prep

[pyroman]

I'm completely redoing my suspension either this weekend or the next and figure while I have all the stuff removed I might as well address the surface rust I see on the inner fenders. From what I can tell it doesn't need anything more than a wire wheeling/sanding to get rid of all the surface rust and then some coating/paint.

I've been doing a bit of research as to what products/process I could use. I'm thinking about

-Wire wheeling/sanding down
-Cleaning really well (thoughts on what cleaner I should use?)
-Use Eastwood's Rust Converter (this is basically a phosphoric acid that leaves a rust inhibiting residue behind right?)
-Finish with Eastwood's brush on Rust Encapsulator in black.

How does that sound?

How much Converter and Encapsulator would I need? Quart each?

Also I was looking at the FAQ section on the converter product page and saw this:

"Application - It is important to apply a thin coat first and allow it to dry before applying a second coat. Allow the surfaced to cure for 48 hours and protect it from moisture, rain, or dew"

Does that mean prior to applying the converter clean the surface and let sit for 48 hours? Or after applying the converter allow it to cure for 48 hours before applying say the encapsulator? I would think the latter, but its not all that clear to me. I'd like to be able to do this in a weekend and I don't have a garage so using this kind of sounds like a pain.

All other suggestions welcome! I'm a bit new to this.

 

[aug0202]

It definately is the latter I have been using the same 4 step process on my 69 with excellent results. I knock the rust off with a wire brush, use PRE (available through eastwood for about 10 bucks), after that dries i use the rust converte.r the first coat takes only about an hour or two to dry then i spray or paint on the second coat of the converter. After that i wait the 2 days to spray the encapsulator. its worth it the result is so much better i tryed spraying it about 6 hours later and it didn't stick to well. it looked o.k but not as good as it does when you wait. I plan on putting a topcoat on but I haven't decided on a color yet. Not having a garage to do all of this in I would imagine could be pretty bad If you don't have a choice then i would try to plan for a nice weekend to do it. I haven't run into a moisture or debris problem yet but i imagine it would be pretty bad!!!I hope this helps

 

[pyroman]

Thanks for the response. That clears it up. However this news makes things a bit difficult, I'll only have time with the car on the weekend. I'd have to have everything applied by Friday in order to have the encapsulator on by the end of the weekend. That probably won't happen though considering I won't be home until at least 7 and I still need to disassemble the suspension and wire wheel the metal. Plus I'm nervous about doing it outside if I have to count on the weather to be good for 48 hours straight. This is Texas after all. I don't see how this is going to work. I really wish I had a garage and access to my car 7 days a week.

I don't suppose anyone has some alternative or work-around suggestions?

EDIT: What about the POR line of products? Everything I hear is that POR and Eastwood are about equivalent. Is the POR metal ready essentially the same stuff or does the same job as the Eastwood Rust Converter?

 

[pyroman]

Given my time constraints I think it's better if I use the POR products. Namely:

Marine Clean
Metal Ready
POR-15

I've heard that you can start applying the POR-15 immediately after the prep products but that you must wash and dry the area immediately after using the prep products. Can anyone speak to this?

Thanks.

 

[TeamEntity]

unless your going for an all out custom look or concourse. why spend all that money? Granted your in texas too. you can clean off the surface rust with the wire wheel or sandpaper. then you can just use rustoleum in spray cans or brush on. let dry then apply a clear if you want. Believe it or not. Still some of the best stuff out there for the money. Eastwoods stuff is great, i've used a lot of it. But save your money for things that will be seen. Like eastwoods chassis black on the suspension parts. Its pretty tough stuff.

 

[mtaqua]

I've had good luck with the POR so far, but only been on the car for about a year. Follow the directions. I usually let the car dry over night to ensure it is dry prior to painting. I also thin it with their thinner and spray it. Goes on really smooth. Some have had bad luck with it.

 

[pyroman]

I'm hoping to paint today but had a question first. My inner fender is sort of a mix match of bare metal/rusty surfaces and painted surfaces. Should I remove all paint before applying? POR-15s directions are sort of confusing, they say different things. One instruction says not to apply it over existing paint, one says it's ok but to test it first and another says yes but you must you a special primer first.

Anyone have experience with it?

 

[Fordmus67tang]

My understanding is that POR15 will stick better to bare metal, but I'm not a POR15 expert. I am doing similar task as you. I have been doing a lot of welding on my 67 couple. I've replaced the driver side shock tower and still taking on the floor pans. Done with the driver side, but now gonna put the passenger torque box then floor pan. My plan is to use the rust encapsulator -> seam sealer -> primer, then spray or brush on truck bed liner both inside and under the car. Sounds like an over kill, but can't be too careful. RUST SUCKS!