Quick questions... about priming lifters and adjusting rockers?

5spd GT

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Aug 7, 2002
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Dumb question...but I'm guessing the lifters have to be primed before you can start adjusting the rockers right?...

What are the best ways to prime the lifters...or the engine for that matter...using the tool that goes into the distributor hole or can I just soak the lifters in oil for a few hours?
 
From Cranes website:: http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=3

Do Hydraulic Lifters Need to be Primed with Oil?
Many people mistakenly believe that hydraulic lifters must be soaked in oil overnight and be hand pumped up with a pushrod before installing into a new engine, however this is not necessary. In fact, this could cause the lifter to act as a “solid” and prevent obtaining proper preload. What is very necessary is the priming of the entire engine’s oil system before starting up a new engine for the first time. This is done by turning the oil pump with a drill motor to force oil throughout the entire engine. Crane Cams offers oil pump primers for Chevrolet and Ford engines
 
Pull the distributor, get a long 1/4" extension and a 1/4" drive socket. I had to look through 5 1/4" sockets to finally find a Thorsen socket skinny enough to fit in the pump drive sleeve and engage the pump shaft. Put the drill in reverse and run it for a couple of minutes. When tightening down on the lifter - WATCH REAL CLOSE as some lifter plungers will depress very easily. Take the slack out with the adjuster nut, tighten a little less than 1/4 turn, set the allen screw and tighten the nut anouther 1/8 turn or so to really set the screw to prevent it from comming loose. The lifters will be noisy for a few minutes after which mine where completely quiet now.
 
tmoss said:
Pull the distributor, get a long 1/4" extension and a 1/4" drive socket. I had to look through 5 1/4" sockets to finally find a Thorsen socket skinny enough to fit in the pump drive sleeve and engage the pump shaft. Put the drill in reverse and run it for a couple of minutes. When tightening down on the lifter - WATCH REAL CLOSE as some lifter plungers will depress very easily. Take the slack out with the adjuster nut, tighten a little less than 1/4 turn, set the allen screw and tighten the nut anouther 1/8 turn or so to really set the screw to prevent it from comming loose. The lifters will be noisy for a few minutes after which mine where completely quiet now.

Dumb questions I know...

what is the lifter plunger?

When do I take the slack out with the adjuster nut?...you mean if I notice if the lifter is depressing...(it shouldn't right...when adjusting the rockers)...

So prime the engine before starting to adjust RR's...?

Wouldn't 2 minutes priming the engine with a drill "burn it up"... :shrug:

sorry for all the questions...
 
There is no need to prime before adjusting -- there is a spring loaded plunger in the lifter which holds the lifter up to the same height it will be at when charged with oil pressure during operation. Check out this thread for more detail on the installation procedure - they're technically not adjustable; there's simply a protocol for installing them. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=459518
 
The pressure developed from running the drill will probably not pump the lifters up completely - they never have on mine and I use a very good Milwaukee 1/2" drill with LOTS of power. You have to watch the plunger as some lifters plungers will be pretty easy to depress.
 
Thanks guys...

So when I'm tightening down the rocker I need to watch the lifter (will be brand new) and see if it depresses...it's not supposed to depress right...what do I do if it starts to depress?

So the only time I need to prime the engine is right before startup?

Also...about lifter install...so I just need to put assembly lube on the rolling part of the lifters and slide them in...?

Thanks again... :nice:
 
You need to take note of the plunger position when you're trying to establish zero lash only -- zero lash is simply when there's no gap on the pushrod end and on the valve stem end. Tighten the rocker very slowly/gently while rocking the rocker by hand. When it just gets to the point that it won't rock anymore (without depressing the plunger -- you can 'feel' it - if the lower intake is on, it's difficult to see), that's when you start your counting turns/torquing procedure. Once you start torquing the rocker, the plunger will depress some - that's completely normal.
 
So the depressing will be normal when I start to tighten...?

So rock the rocker back and forth or side to side?...

So I can just put the lifters in right out of the "box"...?

Whats the best way to go about actually installing the lifters?...Dip in oil real quick and slide them in...or put assembly lube on the "rollers" and put them in or what?

Thanks again...
 
Assembly lube (lucas, stp, royal purple, your regular weight engine oil - lots of stuff gets used) the lifters, and drop them in. To check for zero lash, rock the rocker in the same plane it would move if the pushrod were activating it - back and forth between the valve stem tip and pushrod tip. As you tighten, those gaps will get smaller and smaller until you can't rock the rocker anymore because there is no gap between the tip of the rocker and the valve stem, and between the other end of the rocker and the pushrod. While you're checking that, don't depress the plunger - it should be zero lash (gap) with the plunger un-depressed. Then start your torque/turn-counting procedure. Yes, the plunger will depress some once you start tightening past zero lash - normal.
 
Also, once you've installed them, THEN prime the oil system through the distributor hole (autozone will loan you the tool to turn with your drill - counterclockwise) -- that way you'll pump oil into all the passages/lifters/pushrods/rockers before you start the car. Once warm, if they're making noise, you may have to go back with everything warm, and redo your installation with the same technique. Mine has always quieted down when I've gone through the procedure with everything warm.