R & R TRANSMISSION

[RUNINAGT]

OK guys/girls im gonna remove the transmission outta the Stang tomorrow morning here @ the shop to replace the release bearing and rear main seal. Im not gonna do the clutch due to the car only haveing 38K miles on it and it works fine. I have been told it's a pretty easy job to do. I do have techs here that are willing to do the work but I want to tackle it myself just to get the knowledge. I will have the assitance of my 11yr old son . He's real excited about this.
I am a service writer and have the knowledge of selling the job with ease, but would not really feel comfortable with doing this without help. Good thing for one of my techs here that is going to help as much as he can.
My question is we will start around 7:30 AM. We close @ 1:00PM. Is this enough time to do this job. He's thinking it should. Good thing is if it does not get done, then I can drive our courtesy van home. WOOHOO minivan. Is there anything that I need to look out for when doing this. The tech has done many, many, many jobs like this on different cars and has worked on Fords a lot. He can do it with ease, but some of you guys can do this job drunk and in the driveway Wish me luck and hope that I dont have to drive the minivan home for the weekend.
Oh yea the release bearing is making a loud bad bearing type noise mainly when cold. Noise will change with pressing the clutch pedal softly. Once car warms up the noise seems to go away. I guess I will change the tranny fluid as well while we are there.

LATER, have a good weekend yall.

Admins if this is supposed to be in tech then sorry. Just looking for opinions on what im in store for.

OK talk topic, does anyone know a good item that keeps Opossums out of your garage. We have one that sneaks in sometimes. He comes in if we leave the door open, we have woods, golf course, and a pond in our back yard. Last time he left us a treat on the ground and had footprints all over my windshield and roof of the Stang . I have looked but cant find the bastard. Last winter we had the same problem but I found the thing and moved him back to the woods. Is there some type of spray that may help with keeping them away.

 

[5.0 Nostalgia]

I don't know what to do about your critter problem, but I have pulled a fdw transmissions. You are going to want to drain the fluid out because when you tilt the tranmission back to pull it out, the fluid will pour out of the tailshaft. Because the fluid is so cheap, you should just put new fluid in rather than the used 15+ year old stuff in there. When you put it back in, put a light coat of white lithium grease on the throwout bearing retainer. Don't use wheel bearing grease, as it is possible that it will break down and leak on the clutch.

 

[88gt]

Should be plenty of time...

And the possum problem, ask poopdawg what he did.

 

[RUNINAGT]

Should be plenty of time...

And the possum problem, ask poopdawg what he did.

POOPDAWG chime in,,, what ya do???????

 

[Busted07]

Remember to remove your shifter before you try to take the tranny out. If you forget to, youll have the tranny completely unbolted, then have to lower the car and get in to take those 4 pesky bolts out. If you havent taken the shifter out yet, the 2 forward bolts are a pain in the yang. Then drain the fluid. Be careful when removing the bolt for the speedo cable. mine snapped off inside the tailshaft and it was a pain in the ass to tap out. While you have it apart, check the clutch for wear while youre in there... should give you an idea of how much time you have left on the clutch. Also look at the tailshaft seal.. look for any signs of leakage. it easier to replace that seal while the tranny is out. the same holds true for the rear main seal. check that bugger while youre at it.

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

spray some fart spray in there, man it smells so bad it aint funny!!!

 

[Daggar]

Get a big dog to pee in your garage. That should fix it.

 

[jrichker]

Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.

1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You will need a couple of extensions and a ½” swivel socket to remove the top starter mount bolt, which is accessed from the front and under the headers. Leave the starter wiring connected unless you plan to change the starter at this time.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.
8.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
9.) Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
10.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
11.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
12.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
13.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
14.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required.
15.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
16.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
17.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
18. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
19.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
20.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
21. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some 7/16 bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
22.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
23.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
24.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
25.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
26.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
27.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
28.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
29.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
30.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
31.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive..

 

[RUNINAGT]

Dern jrichker, your a book. I will be @ our shop with a lift. Do I still need the jackstands. JJ thanks for all the help.
You know I actually thought about te dog pee trick. Figured they would smell it and not come near. Dont have a dog so I just pee'd in front of our garage. Maybe that will do the trick. I make sure and pee in front again tomorrow. LOL JJ I didnt pee in front,,,






I went to the side some where it was a bit darker.

 

[RUNINAGT]

OK job was done. Went very smoothly and was pretty easy. Guys thanks for all the info. The release bearing was definately bad. Clutch still looked great, so it was not replaced.

Still may have the opussum problem though.