radiator cap Vented/nonvented ??

nwoh50

New Member
May 4, 2005
11
0
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Toledo,Ohio
what cap should be used on a stock radiator setup on a '93 5.0 ...(16lbs cap...)
Does it need to be Vented .. or Nonvented Cap ...:shrug:

The car ran a vented style before.. now the Person at "AUTOZONE"
gave me a Non vented Cap...


:flag:
 
Is there anyway to tell if --Fan Clutch-- is working Ok ??

82k miles on the '93 5.0 Aod (feature car)
Its been running warmer then Normal for the last 3-5wks

Around *190-*200 on stock gauge.. but the engine feel 50x that... can't even touch anything underhood after 25mins of driving it.. To Hot !


170* t-stat
underdrive pulleys
full exhaust
3.73 gears
1:7 roller rocker
Stock intake with spacer
Stock Air tubing..w/ K&N
Lowered 1 1/2

Click on pic ...
 
Run the car a few minutes til the t-stat opens then shut it off, right after shutting it off see if the fan has any tension when it turns. If it does its good if it doesnt and spins freely its bad. Also see if the fan clutch is dirty on the face thats closest to the rad. This is a quick sign its bad if it has a dirty film and dust on it.
 
donsbad68 said:
Run the car a few minutes til the t-stat opens then shut it off, right after shutting it off see if the fan has any tension when it turns. If it does its good if it doesnt and spins freely its bad. Also see if the fan clutch is dirty on the face thats closest to the rad. This is a quick sign its bad if it has a dirty film and dust on it.

little dust on the back side of the fan blades

I checked the fan tension before I started the car. It did have drag too it
But I let it run for 10mins.. got to the "L" of Normal on Stock gauge.

Shut off.. checked fan tension Maybe 15%-20% more tension If that...
Bad Right ??

:nice:
 
You need a real gauge for diagnostics.

The fan clutch testing is subjective - I seldom post how to test it because it's a relative thing.

You can look for tells: The thermal clutch has an orifice that opens via a bimetallic spring. It passes silicone fluid to affect a viscous lock-up. If you see slicone leaking out of the hub, that's a suggestion that the clutch has seen better days.

If replacing and Toledo gets hot, a heavy duty clutch works well. SOme gripe that it's too tight but if you live in a hot climate, this IS what you want.
Otherwise, folks like the Ford clutch.

Consider clutch cost (and fan balde cost if your plastic one is cracked as so many are. A new metal blade works great and costs 30 bucks) vs doing an E-fan (if you have a 3G alternator).

The E-fan can be a nice way to go. This is all of course if you are actually running hot. The temp gauge is needed.

Good luck.
 
Yep. Loosen the WP bolts, then remove belt, then I (others might be different) remove the shround and fan/clutch as one unit.

Good luck.