• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Engine Radiator Replacement Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter bicknell
  • Start date Start date Jul 12, 2023
B

bicknell

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 1, 2002
69
8
18
Sterling, VA
Jul 12, 2023
#1
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #1
I have a 1992 5.0 LX automatic with a leaking radiator. The car is new to me, so I don't know the entire service history, however the history I do have indicates it was extremely well maintained. I've been doing some research, and this looks like a relatively easy job I can tackle myself, however I have some questions before I get started that a search doesn't find answers to in the archives. The car is 100% stock, and so I'd like as stock a looking radiator as possible. That's also why I'm not interested in an aftermarket trans cooler.

1) The transmission "cooling" lines attach to the radiator. When disconnected, will I need some sort of plug for them or are they high enough up all the fluid has run back down into the transmission?

2) Based on the pictures I can find online the closest looking ones appear to be OSC 556 ($142 at Rock Auto, warranty unknown), Spectra Premium CU556 ($120 at Rock Auto, 2 year warranty), and FVP RAD566 ($102 at Rock Auto, lifetime warranty). From the pictures and part number I'm thinking CJ's Pony Parts RAD5563 ($172) is the FVP radiator. I don't know anything about any of these companies, good or bad, but I'd lean towards the FVP due to the lifetime warranty and that CJ's has picked them. Any feedback is welcome.

3) I did the electrolysis test and it came out good. In the process though I took a good look inside the radiator, and here's a picture. Obviously a lot of build up inside, I'm wondering if this is perfectly normal on a 30 year old radiator or if this is an indication of past or potential future problems. Does this indicate I might need to do some additional flushing of the system as part of this procedure?



4) It's got some sort of green coolant in it now, origin and age unknown. I believe I need to stick with some sort of IAT coolant (e.g. Zerex Original Green). Any other recommendations about coolant type?

5) Should I plan on changing the coolant again at a short interval? That is, will this whole procedure knock loose a bunch of gunk inside the system and it will need a drain and fill in short order?

Thank you in advance for any feedback. This will be my first time doing a radiator so I want to be sure it's done right.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,932
21,109
234
Box behind Walmart
Jul 12, 2023
#2
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #2
If this were my radiator, I would call around and find a shop that can refurb the thing. Pull it, and let them clean, flush, and repair as necessary. Then just reinstall your brand new (rebuilt) radiator.

Most of that "gunk" is what happens when tap water is run with the coolant over the years. I don't put anything into the cooling system that is not anti-freeze or distilled water.

Stick with [green] anti-freeze.

I would cap the currently unused transmission lines.

I am not a huge fan of aftermarket radiators and also not a fan of installing aluminum radiators on otherwise OEM engine combos. Some of these other guys, however, will be better at pointing you in the right direction for a replacement if that's what you decide to do.


Give this a look when you have the chance: https://sterling-radiator.business.site/
 
Reactions: limp
B

bicknell

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 1, 2002
69
8
18
Sterling, VA
Jul 12, 2023
#3
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #3
Noobz347 said:
If this were my radiator, I would call around and find a shop that can refurb the thing. Pull it, and let them clean, flush, and repair as necessary. Then just reinstall your brand new (rebuilt) radiator.

Give this a look when you have the chance: https://sterling-radiator.business.site/
Click to expand...

I would love to have it refurbished. Several mechanics in town said the last place doing it was Arlington Armature, when I called them they stopped doing radiator repair about 2 years ago and said the nearest place they knew of was up in Pittsburgh. My "plan", to the extent it was a plan, was to replace it with a new one and then see if I could find someone to ship it off to and refurbish it to reinstall a few months later. I also can't tell exactly where it is leaking in the car, so I don't know how repairable it is. I will check out that place in Sterling though, it's nearby me.

I believe the transmission lines are used on mine, it's an AOD car.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,932
21,109
234
Box behind Walmart
Jul 12, 2023
#4
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #4
bicknell said:
I believe the transmission lines are used on mine, it's an AOD car.
Click to expand...


Rog... I misunderstood. Having caps/plugs on-hand when you pull them is a good idea.
 

85GTStangGuy

5 Year Member
May 19, 2021
997
625
113
Jax, Florida
Jul 12, 2023
#5
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #5
This thread may interest you....

Upgrades radiator that’s not a 3 core??

My stock radiator has a crack and needs replaced. This is a mostly stock cruiser so I don’t really care to do electric fans or a huge radiator. Is there a decent middle ground? Something better than stock but not a 3 core? Car is a 91 5.0 manual with stock fan and working ac.
stangnet.com
 
Reactions: bicknell

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,797
3,928
183
Claremore, OK
Jul 12, 2023
#6
  • Jul 12, 2023
  • #6
I second getting the original one repaired as the new "stock" replacements are terrible quality wise. If you have any inclination to increase the performance of the car just bite the bullet and put an aluminum unit in it and move on. I use and can recommend a Fluidyne however they are pricey but you get what you pay for. You can find them cheaper than on Fluidyne's site but it has the best info:

FHP30A-93MU 79-93 MUSTANG AUTO RADIATOR - Fluidyne

Upgrade your 79-93 Mustang's cooling system with Fluidyne's FHP30A-93MU Auto Radiator. Enjoy enhanced heat dissipation for optimal engine performance.
www.fluidyne.com

SVE will be one of the cheapest but do some research before you go down the aluminum radiator route. Cheap usually means overseas and the quality tends to not be as good as Americal units made like BeCool, Champion, Cold Case, Fluidyne, Griffin, etc. (pretty sure all of them are still American made). The only other one out of that list I can speak for is Griffin as I run one in my T-Bird.
 
Reactions: Mindseye007
B

bicknell

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 1, 2002
69
8
18
Sterling, VA
Jul 13, 2023
#7
  • Jul 13, 2023
  • #7
In my case the car is extremely stock, and I want to keep it that way. 17k miles, and the previous owner kept it in a climate controlled garage. The engine bay and under side look like it just rolled off the factory line. They were a little too far in the "keep everything stock" direction, while it got good fluid changes and such it still had what I believe was the original fan belt. That's why if I have to replace something getting a similar look is somewhat important. The experts can know it was replaced, but the casual looker shouldn't be able to tell. I've also been keeping every part I take off of it, which is very small pile, just in case a future buyer wants that 100% stock back. Maybe I'll sell it to a museum in 20 years!

Anyway, I'm going to check out that local shop that claims to do radiator repair. If they can pull it and re-braise it that would be the best option. I'll then do the vinegar thing to clean out a bunch of the deposits. If the local shop can't do it I think I will buy the cheapest one, swap them, and then look to ship off the original to one of the mail order places that can fix them. That way we can keep enjoying the car and there's no rush on the repair or getting it back in.

I really appreciate all the help!
 

85GTStangGuy

5 Year Member
May 19, 2021
997
625
113
Jax, Florida
Jul 13, 2023
#8
  • Jul 13, 2023
  • #8
AeroCoupe said:
SVE will be one of the cheapest but do some research before you go down the aluminum radiator route. Cheap usually means overseas and the quality tends to not be as good as Americal units made like BeCool, Champion, Cold Case, Fluidyne, Griffin, etc. (pretty sure all of them are still American made). The only other one out of that list I can speak for is Griffin as I run one in my T-Bird.
Click to expand...
Mishimoto is another brand of aluminum radiators, and they are made exclusively in the good ole USA.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,932
21,109
234
Box behind Walmart
Jul 13, 2023
#9
  • Jul 13, 2023
  • #9
bicknell said:
Anyway, I'm going to check out that local shop that claims to do radiator repair. If they can pull it and re-braise it that would be the best option. I'll then do the vinegar thing to clean out a bunch of the deposits. If the local shop can't do it I think I will buy the cheapest one, swap them, and then look to ship off the original to one of the mail order places that can fix them. That way we can keep enjoying the car and there's no rush on the repair or getting it back in.
Click to expand...
If the shop does it, you shouldn't have to do anything. It should come back looking like brand new.
 

Mindseye007

5 Year Member
Oct 21, 2020
556
130
63
ontario
Jul 15, 2023
#10
  • Jul 15, 2023
  • #10
bicknell said:
I have a 1992 5.0 LX automatic with a leaking radiator. The car is new to me, so I don't know the entire service history, however the history I do have indicates it was extremely well maintained. I've been doing some research, and this looks like a relatively easy job I can tackle myself, however I have some questions before I get started that a search doesn't find answers to in the archives. The car is 100% stock, and so I'd like as stock a looking radiator as possible. That's also why I'm not interested in an aftermarket trans cooler.

1) The transmission "cooling" lines attach to the radiator. When disconnected, will I need some sort of plug for them or are they high enough up all the fluid has run back down into the transmission?

2) Based on the pictures I can find online the closest looking ones appear to be OSC 556 ($142 at Rock Auto, warranty unknown), Spectra Premium CU556 ($120 at Rock Auto, 2 year warranty), and FVP RAD566 ($102 at Rock Auto, lifetime warranty). From the pictures and part number I'm thinking CJ's Pony Parts RAD5563 ($172) is the FVP radiator. I don't know anything about any of these companies, good or bad, but I'd lean towards the FVP due to the lifetime warranty and that CJ's has picked them. Any feedback is welcome.

3) I did the electrolysis test and it came out good. In the process though I took a good look inside the radiator, and here's a picture. Obviously a lot of build up inside, I'm wondering if this is perfectly normal on a 30 year old radiator or if this is an indication of past or potential future problems. Does this indicate I might need to do some additional flushing of the system as part of this procedure?



4) It's got some sort of green coolant in it now, origin and age unknown. I believe I need to stick with some sort of IAT coolant (e.g. Zerex Original Green). Any other recommendations about coolant type?

5) Should I plan on changing the coolant again at a short interval? That is, will this whole procedure knock loose a bunch of gunk inside the system and it will need a drain and fill in short order?

Thank you in advance for any feedback. This will be my first time doing a radiator so I want to be sure it's done right.
Click to expand...
Check this out at LMR
https://lmr.com/item/FHP-20A93MU/79-93-Fluidyne-50L-Automatic-Mustang-Aluminum-Radiator
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
Question about EGR valve, replacement, and a part on the valve.
  • DPP
  • May 9, 2026
  • SN95 V6 Mustang Tech
Replies
1
Views
75
SN95 V6 Mustang Tech May 23, 2026
DPP
D
A
2001 Mustang GT, scorched metal smell and noise from trans/diff?
  • AndyE2255
  • Dec 1, 2025
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
4
Views
414
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Dec 28, 2025
gkomo
Progress Thread 93 LX father son project
  • ZAM93LX
  • Oct 26, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
24
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Dec 3, 2025
Scrapla347
M
2001 v6 heater return pipe leak question
  • mnky99
  • Nov 11, 2025
  • SN95 V6 Mustang Tech
Replies
1
Views
214
SN95 V6 Mustang Tech Nov 11, 2025
mnky99
M
M
2001 evap/heater core questions
  • mnky99
  • Sep 3, 2025
  • SN95 V6 Mustang Tech
Replies
3
Views
281
SN95 V6 Mustang Tech Sep 3, 2025
mnky99
M
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?