Radiator replacement?

[QangMartoq]

After having had the experience of money left over after payday (WOW!) I took the Mustang into a local radiator shop and questioned the guy on the cooling problems that periodically plague my baby.

The cooling fan will not run of its own accord - I have to turn on the A/C to engage the fan. As a result, the car will overheat in slow traffic (generally under 35mph for a prolonged period of time). I'd turn on the A/C, but something is wonky about it, which I will address in a seperate thread.

Since I've established that the fan motor runs, that only leaves the relays or the switch. Thanks to a show and tell trip to AutoZone, I now know that a 'fan switch' is actually some small object that fits into one of the lines on my engine which coolant flows through. I'm also led to believe that it is the most common failed component in an electric fan setup.

The radiator guy tells me that my radiator, being the original factory unit, is shot - It definately has leaks, and is most likely internally plugged. This would explain why it won't hold the full 9.4 of coolant/water, and rejects all but 4 quarts regualrly.

He offered me a price of $125 for a 3 row radiator that according to him "has some blemishes on it, but works just fine". I didn't see the radiator he was referring to, and I assume that to mean cosmetic damage only. I have no problem with purely cosmetic damage, but need to know if $125 is a decent price.

He quoted me $60 for installation, but I can do that myself in an afternoon.


Good price? Bad price? Run like hell?

 

[JamesBaumann]

Don't pay the guy to have it installed. You can install it yourself very very easily. All you have to do is take out the two bolts that secure the upper radiator mount which secures the radiator up against the grill, (these two bolts are found near the hood latch, very easy to locate.) Once you take these two bolts out and you have pulled off your upper and lower rad hoses connected to the radiator then the rad is free to be just pulled out. That simple. To re-install, repeat this 3 minute process, but in reverse. (Rad hoses back on instead of off, and secure the radiator mount back to the car) There is only one thing you have to be careful of when you're putting it back in. There are two rubber rad mounts that go underneath the radiator so that it sits on these cushiony pieces of rubber and not the solid metal. They are also very easy to find, just look at where they are when you take your old rad out. It's important that your new rad sits on top of these things, or else, after time the vibrations of driving and the metal on metal will grind you two nice holes in the bottom of the rad. So, this is important, but don't worry, it's very easy. So yes, the installation part you can do yourself and save yourself $60. Its just a simple matter of two bolts, two rad hoses and putting it back in on the little rubber supports. As for a used $125US radiator, I think you could actually get a new one for that price, so I'd look around. I paid about $200Canadian which is about $150-$160US. So before you pick it up from him, look around to see how much you can get a new one for. I got the copper three row Modine and it was a perfect fit. Just dropped right in there. Good luck, hope this helps.

 

[bhuff30]

if you have an automatic transmission, you will need a rad. with a tranny cooler in it. It would really suck to buy something only to realize it is the wrong part.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

I payed 200.00 for a 3 row, flushed system, and install for my SVO. The radiator was like 150.00 I believe and so paying 50.00 bux to install and flush the block wasn't to bad of a deal since I didn't want to mess with flushing the system out. I did this because it had that stock leak crap and did NOT want that crap around my car. (was there when I bought it) Now I payed 89.00 for a two core for my 93' LX and installed it my self. Its way simple like James said. The only thing is you kinda have to pull the fan out of your way or unbolt it which takes 2 mins Also if you got a A4LA(auto) then you have two trans cooler lines to unscrew. If you got a T-5 then you can skip this part but the new radiator you buy comes with plugs for the auto lines that should be installed if your car is a T-5 (Stick).

Rays opinion- I don't like used radiators or AutoZone cheap-os. Its just me but at the time I could only get a AutoZone for my 93'LX which so fair has done good in the last 8 months or more.

Good Luck

 

[Ray III]

125 for a radiator is a good deal.

60 to swap is not.

I replaced mine with one out of a junkyard, it is the original Ford radiator in almost perfect condition. I paid for a bunch of items at once but I would say it was 70-90 by itself maybe.

As for the broken electric fan, I remedied that by removing it and placing it in the trash. Then I got a belt driven fan off an early 90's 2.3L Ranger. It is a direct bolt in and far superior to the ghetto rig-up that Ford slapped on the 4 banger Mustangs. The only issues are that it needs to be spaced closer to the radiator but I don't know by how much because I haven't installed the motor with fan yet, and there is no fan shroud. The ranger forum guys told me there is an early Mustang that has a shroud that will work with this fan, or adapt the Ranger one. I won't be using one because this thing is going to pull air like a bastard anyways.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

60 to swap is not.

I agree and besides its realy gratifing to do stuff to your car your self

Ok Ray I really have to ask this and I'm not trying to be a smart a$$ about it In your name its got III I'm assuming its because you're the third person to be named Raymond?

 

[JamesBaumann]

If you got a T-5 then you can skip this part but the new radiator you buy comes with plugs for the auto lines that should be installed if your car is a T-5 (Stick).

Good Luck

I have a t-5, yet I have no lines going from the radiator to the tranny. In this post you said that there should be some lines installed if your car is a
t-5. Should I have some cooling lines going from my rad to my transmission?

 

[98blueoval]

I have a t-5, yet I have no lines going from the radiator to the tranny. In this post you said that there should be some lines installed if your car is a
t-5. Should I have some cooling lines going from my rad to my transmission?

Also if you got a A4LA(auto) then you have two trans cooler lines to unscrew. If you got a T-5 then you can skip this part

Pay more attention when you read.no offense

 

[Ray III]

Ok Ray I really have to ask this and I'm not trying to be a smart a$$ about it In your name its got III I'm assuming its because you're the third person to be named Raymond?

that is correct, I see you called yourself Ray so I will allow you to be Ray IV

 

[Ray III]

and NO don't get a radiator with an auxiliary cooler

 

[Pro-Hawk]

Also if you got a A4LA(auto) then you have two trans cooler lines to unscrew. If you got a T-5 then you can skip this part but the new radiator you buy comes with plugs for the auto lines that should be installed if your car is a T-5 (Stick).

Good Luck

I have a t-5, yet I have no lines going from the radiator to the tranny. In this post you said there should be some lines installed if your car is a t-5. Should I have some lines going from my rad to my transmession?

I'm sorry it wasn't explained more and sounded like a T-5 had cooling lines. I was talking about the trans cooling holes on the raidiator. I really thought this was such a simple task that I didn't have to go in great detail about but since some people make great attempts to prove someone wrong of something. I will try and explain it better below.

Every new raidator for our cars with come with a trans cooler in them whether your buying it for a stick or a auto. The box will contain two PLUGS that is used to plug up the trans cooler holes for the trans cooler if your car is a T-5. If you choose not to plug these holes you should have two pretty good size leaks. So you see I was taling about pluging the trans cooler holes on the rad if you got a T-5.

P.S The raidator should come with two adaptors for different size automatic transmession cooling lines.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

that is correct, I see you called yourself Ray so I will allow you to be Ray IV

I'm honored but I really can't stand my name Its Raymond as well but I like Ray better. When came time to name our son we choose Rhett as in Rhett Butler off, "Gone with the Wind."

 

[Ray III]

I am called Ray too, except when I piss my mother off... I guess I could have stood being called something like mark or tom or something non-ridiculous

 

[Pro-Hawk]

I am called Ray too, except when I piss my mother off...

I'm sure that applys for everyone including me

 

[JamesBaumann]

I'm sorry it wasn't explained more and sounded like a T-5 had cooling lines. I was talking about the trans cooling holes on the raidiator. I really thought this was such a simple task that I didn't have to go in great detail about but since some people make great attempts to prove someone wrong of something. I will try and explain it better below.

Every new raidator for our cars with come with a trans cooler in them whether your buying it for a stick or a auto. The box will contain two PLUGS that is used to plug up the trans cooler holes for the trans cooler if your car is a T-5. If you choose not to plug these holes you should have two pretty good size leaks. So you see I was taling about pluging the trans cooler holes on the rad if you got a T-5.

P.S The raidator should come with two adaptors for different size automatic transmession cooling lines.

Thanks for the help Pro-Hawk. Sorry, I didn't really understand you the first time, but I probably should have read slower. Thanks again.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

Thanks for the help Pro-Hawk. Sorry, I didn't really understand you the first time, but I probably should have read slower. Thanks again.

Np its my fault, when I reread my post It did sound a little weird I should have been nicer in my reply to you alls post. Sorry

 

[QangMartoq]

Ok, possible solution - I stopped by a local junkyard and stripped a '90 4-cyl auto LX coupe of its radiator. The guy that pulled it didn't bother to take his time removing it, and cut what I think are the transmission cooler lines off, just past the fittings that connect to the right side of the radiator (Right side of the radiator when standing in front of the car with the radiator installed).

To answer what seems to be some confusion over my '87 in this thread, it is unfortunately an automatic, btw.

As far as I know - It's a direct swap into my '87 - Correct?

When I saw it in the Mustang, it was still full of water/antifreeze, which was a good sign. About the only thing visibly removed from the donor engine-wise were the drivebelts. In fact, if I had been able to turn the ignition (Locked, no good even with jiggling keys) it looked like it would have started up. Someone had t-boned it on the driver's side, which I guess is why it's where it is now.

A shame to see them go out like that!

 

[Ray III]

my radiator has auto trans cooler fittings too, I think they might all be the same anyways. How much did you pay for the thing? Is it almost new looking or a bit beat up?

 

[QangMartoq]

I paid $65 for it. It looks better than mine, and from a visual inspection, I can say that it was full to the top with water/antifreeze, which can only be a good sign. When the guy cut the hoses off (He didn't bother with undoing the clamps - More interested in speed than grace) of course all the fluid came rushing out - I saw no rust - Another good sign.

As far as I know, all radiators for 4-cyl Mustangs, from 87-93, at least on automatics, are identical. Can anyone verify this? The guy that pulled it doubted it, but to my eye, it was.

 

[Pro-Hawk]

As far as I know, all radiators for 4-cyl Mustangs, from 87-93, at least on automatics, are identical. Can anyone verify this? The guy that pulled it doubted it, but to my eye, it was.

Everything under the hood looks the same from 87-93 to me with a few exceptions like the: Turbo, VAM, MAF, SD,and DIS cars I would take a guess and say the 2.3L radiators are the same from 87-93. My old 85' SVOs look identical to my 93's current new radiator is why I think this.