Raising the car for Subframe connector welding (or other reasons).

lemosley1973

Doing something with a heavy tranny now
Feb 18, 2019
222
73
38
Clover, SC
I recall seeing a thread or post here of someone who built some wooden blocks to raise the Fox - they raised it pretty high - like 18+ inches.

They built blocks out of wood, but it wasn't just stacking up 2x6's or 2x8s to make a solid mass of wood. - I think they used 2x4s on their sides in a sort of crossing pattern that locked the wheels in place.

Does anyone happen to have that bookmarked? Or have other ideas? I can build some ramps out of 2x8s of course, though that would be pretty high. I figure I need the car 7-10 inches off the ground.
 
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I have a set. This is about as high as I can go with my jack. I believe they’re 12” 2x4 sections.
 
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I’ve always thought about building these. How secure are they compared to jack stands, in your opinion? I could definitely use a little more room to work under there.

IMO, they're more stable and safe then jack stands. The only downfall is you can't perform suspension/brake/wheel work, obviously. Jack stands still have their place. I use both now.
 
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Cribbing with the 2x4's looks ok I guess, ramps though, nope. I've personally seen three sets fail, two metal (both folded the f*** over) & one composite. I'm sure it's happened, but a jack stand failing seems a lot less likely. Again, spend the extra dough for the six ton ones. Those foam blocks are interesting, hadn't came across them before.
 
It's up. I only made 10.5 inches tall, and don't feel like I need more. I did have to buy another pair of jack stands (I've only ever had 2).

Convertibles are a little more sketchy to get up because they have an XBrace that connects to the K-Member with some bolts that aren't flush. For the block of wood I created to put on top of the jack, I had to drill to holes with a paddle bit to let it sit flush onto the X-brace.

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Buy a set of 6 ton jack stands?

Yup...go to Harbor Freight/Northern Tool and get the six ton jackstands. They work for Mustangs and bigger pickups (Inuse mine with my F250). They will also stand up to the scrutiny of an insurance investigator as taking due care for safety should an accident happen. My dollartwoninetyeight.
 
This is working great. I've removed the front reinforcements and the rivets from the rear. Next I will grind the rear reinforcement lip down and test fit. Assuming they SFCs fit properly, I'll probably have them welded in this weekend and hopefully primed and painted.

I noticed some oil on my rear passenger side axle tube, so new seals and bearings may be in the future.

Its great to have the car this high and it be secure.
 
Well it's done - I put all of the weight on the car to get the reinforcment plate to mash down. My welds are ugly but I think they'll hold. We'll see - if not, I see a lot of cutting and rewelding, but I'll get better.

I used flux cored wire for the MIG. Harbor Freight stuff, and ran out with like 8 inches left to weld (you have to weld plates on the MM SFCs for the final step). I bought some Lincoln flux core and it seems to weld nicer and welds a LOT cleaner. More expensive (12/lb at Lowe's) but appears to my novice skills to be a superior product.

It took me a long time, but I took my time. Probably the biggest time sucks are just getting up off the floor, back down, then getting into a semi-comfortable welding position.
 
I'll get some pics but they're painted flat black so the hideousness may not fully show through. :D

I didn't even grind them - they're under the car where all manner of trash is going to be thrown at them, so what's the point (unless there is a reason?)
 
Nope. No reason other than I’m a newbie welder too, and just snotted up the bottom of my car with ugly welds doing my SFC and floor pan repair. I figure I’d like some company!