Rear axle refresh questions

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Massachusetts
I'm cleaning up/refreshing my rear axle. I have a few questions. I figured i'd start a new thread rather than post in my progress thread.


1.) Axle tube vent. What size threads are these so i can get a plug for it while i clean and paint it.

2.) I want to clean the sludge out of the housing. 21 years of diff fluid and 100K miles does not make a pretty sight. Can i remove the diff? I assume i unbolt the two journals and pull it straight out? When i put it back? nothing needs to be reset right? Drop it in and torque down the bolts? I don't want to have to reset anything to do with the gears at all.

3.) If i remove the center diff, how can i clean out the inside? Powerwash at the car wash? Brake parts cleaner?

4.) Remove axle bearings. Slide puller??

5.) Remove upper control arm axle bushings? I assume i can drill out the rubber and bang out the sleeve with a hammer? How do i push the new OEM bushings in?
 
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1.) Axle tube vent. What size threads are these so i can get a plug for it while i clean and paint it.
You don't. just leave it open and clean everything.
Glass bead blasting is the quickest, easiest method to do the outside of the assembly.

2.) I want to clean the sludge out of the housing. 21 years of diff fluid and 100K miles does not make a pretty sight. Can i remove the diff? I assume i unbolt the two journals and pull it straight out? When i put it back? nothing needs to be reset right? Drop it in and torque down the bolts? I don't want to have to reset anything to do with the gears at all.
There are many sites with instructions how to tear-down the housing, and yes, it's quite simple.
In a hand basket;
remove the center pin
pull the large pin out of the differential
tap the c clips out
pull the axles out
remove the 4ea cap bolts
pull the ring gear assembly out

If you don't damage anything, people have successfully rebuilt their housing using the original shims and bearing BUT I suggest you use new crush washers.

3.) If i remove the center diff, how can i clean out the inside? Powerwash at the car wash? Brake parts cleaner?
409 or any grease cutting cleaner and a stiff parts cleaner brush will do most of the cleaning. Bring a healthy elbow because your gonna need it.
However, if you decide to do this, you're not going to use the original bearings on the Pinion.
If you remove the pinion, your going to have to buy new seals.
It is a PITA removing the bearings and seals from the housing!

4.) Remove axle bearings. Slide puller??
Yes, or a really long drift.
Again, if you remove these bearings, you'll need to buy new ones.

5.) Remove upper control arm axle bushings? I assume i can drill out the rubber and bang out the sleeve with a hammer? How do i push the new OEM bushings in?
That is one way.
If you have an air-hammer... I'd use that with a blunt chisel and drift them out.
This is a real PITA... consider yourself forwarned.


Good luck
Dana
 
Thanks.

I already have the axles pulled out. I just have the center section in. I wanted to take it out just to have access to cleaning the inside and to make it lighter so when i take the housing to get blasted, it's easier to carry.

Not going to take the pinion gear out. My rear was rebuilt not too long ago and i don't need to replace the pinion bearing or seals or inside bearings. So i want to avoid upsetting any clearances. I just want to remove the center for access and weight reduction. If there is a chance i need to reshim or anything, i don't want to do it.

I don't have the brakes on the end, I removed the seals and just need to remove the bearings. I have all new parts.

Rubber bushings...yeah it's gonna such but they are junk. Again, i have new ones.

I just want to clean the hell out of it and blast it down before I paint it with POR-15 and begin assembly.
 
Thanks. I did take it off already. But i didn't want an open hole when they blasted it.

I just need something to cap the ends where the axles were since they are now open.
 
This might be obvious but keep track of what side each cap and shim(s) were on and replace the same way. BTW if carrier preload is correct, you should have to tug it of there or use a big screwdriver or prybar. When you put it back, you might as well check backlash, if you have a dial gauge or can get a hold of one.
 
im in the same boat as you..i had mine pressed in when i had my gears done and the guy pressed the bushings all the way in...so now i got to back them out a 1/2"....i might have to buy that tool if i cant figure something out
 
I'm gonna need that tool too... but yeah I dont want to buy a tool I'm going to use once. I still have to look to see if my buddy has some crazy million dollar tool in his garage that he rarely uses or cant afford that will get the job done.
 

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